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96 Honda Timing Belt Tensoner


HondaFreakGeek

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Hello All:

 

I have a quick question. I finished the timing belt water pump change today and drove the car and it runs fine but when I got it home it had a small whine and it seemed to be coming where the belt was replaced. When I got the belt off I loosened the timing belt tensenor and then realigned it to be centered again with the sensor bolt in the dead center. The belt was snug and seemed not to be too tight. Is their a trick to getting the right tension or should I be replacing this item with my AutoZone friends for 60 Bucks? I would doubt a break in is needed on this belt for it to quiet down? I drove 10 miles etc. The car started first try!

Signed bummed I will be pulling this down again to check the tensioned etc.

:help:

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how much play is in the belt?

It was snug and felt as tight as the one I removed. The one I removed was able to actually come off without having to loosen the tension device. I unfortunately could not get the new one to slide on as it was not loose enough. I could move it a little each way and thought the tensioned spring etc would manage the tightness etc.

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Nah man the tensioners don't go out that often to warrant replacing it. Probably your alternator belt squeakin.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. There is a reason Honda replaces it and the water pump with a timing belt job.

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crap my CRX had the original motor in it with almost 270,000 miles on it and the water pump was perfect, in fact after i pulled it a friend of mine bought it and put it on his civic. Still working fine last i heard.

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ive seen this happen when belt has been overtightened. how are you tensioning the belt?

 

I tightened the tensioner by getting to be centered and then pushed up on it slightly to get the slack out and the bolt and washer to dead center. I pushed the tensioned with the back of a rubber coated screw driver to center up. The item centered and the tension was not too tight or loose. I had some play on it. Today I took the valve cover off and the top cover that goes over the timing belt and could still move the timing belt. I also took the entire AC, alternator, ps belts off the car at one point to ensure that it was not another item or AC tensioned making the noise.

I hear a noise at extreme low idle from time to time. It’s not a constant noise. The noise is a slight whine type for a second then stops. I wish I could hear the new water pump to make sure the replacement is not making the noise. I can order a new tensioner with spring for 34 bucks + 8 to ship at (http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/pages/cart.asp). I am betting it would take about an hour since I will not have to remove the motor mount and only drop the belts and remove the a/c tensioner and the pulley. I can then swap out the tensioner if I have too.

 

Do you have a favorite way or suggestions on the alignment of the tensioner to be centered if I should do it an alternate way? I read on one website where the person had success with a similar method instead of back the belt three notches etc.:drew:

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never push the tensioner , it makes them too tight. what you do is , once you get it all on and marks are good , turn engine over just a few teeth by the crank(counterclock) , it will auto take the slack out. than just tighten tensioner.

 

never push the tensioner , it makes them too tight. what you do is , once you get it all on and marks are good , turn engine over just a few teeth by the crank(counterclock) , it will auto take the slack out. than just tighten tensioner. tensioner should only be loose about a half turn. enough to make it slide.

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  • 2 weeks later...
never push the tensioner , it makes them too tight. what you do is , once you get it all on and marks are good , turn engine over just a few teeth by the crank(counterclock) , it will auto take the slack out. than just tighten tensioner.

 

never push the tensioner , it makes them too tight. what you do is , once you get it all on and marks are good , turn engine over just a few teeth by the crank(counterclock) , it will auto take the slack out. than just tighten tensioner. tensioner should only be loose about a half turn. enough to make it slide.

 

I haven't been on here in a while. Decided to dig back a lil into older forums. I was looking on here to see if anyone got this crap right. Leave it to cranny. That crap's straight from the haynes repair manual. You other people should invest in one.

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what are you getting at? ive done about , ohhh , dozens. wanna see pics of some timing belt jobs? actually i need not prove anything.

 

Cranny, dude I wasn't being a dumbhead. I was geting at the list of people that couldn't figure this crap out until you came along. Why try and prove yourself to someone who takes your advice anyways?

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