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piecing together a motor


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there are a number of problems associated with CR-VTEC and LS-VTEC. all of those problems can be overcome by listening to the people with experience and also the willingness to spent the money to do things the right way. how much money are you looking to spend?

 

as far as simplicity, it's not as easy as just bolting a VTEC head on a CR-V block.

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Im going to be build a CRvtec with a gsr head here pretty soon. im picking the gsr motor up this weekend. Looking for a B20 block as we speak. This will be my first time doing frankinstien swap but im thinking of going big with it, have a long drawn out build to have sweet satisfaction when im done lol. sorry im not much help but if you start your build pretty soon we can compare problems/solutions or whatever as you go.

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the golden eagle kit comes with everything you need. this is what the differences are. the underside of the VTEC heads has an allen key plug , remove the plug , put it in the hole next to it. on the back of the block , the oil pressure sender comes out , an extension with a tap goes in , than the pressure sensor goes back on that , than an oil line runs from the tap to the head. when putting head back on , the dowell pins have to be moved from one side to the other , the kit comes with ones , if not the holes in the block need to be drilled out. than the vtec head bolts on with a VTEC head gasket. that gives you an idea anyways. not hard.

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Truthfully, if you want to go LS-VTEC or B20-VTEC, I recommend buying a complete B16A swap. You figure you spend the money for the transmission with shorter gears and a good flowing head, then all you have to do is buy the block you want to use. Then all the VTEC wiring and components are there and it is a simple block swap and computer tune. I almost regret not just buying a B16A swap and then doing a LS or GS-R block, but whatever.

 

I also hear B20 blocks are not the best in terms of strength either, I recommend getting it sleeved if you plan on boosting or running high horsepower.

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ya for sure B20s are brittle, anything over 200HP = a mess i dont want to deal with. that is if you dont rienforce the block. i have a list of crap i plan to do or get for the block. about 3500 bucks total but i know ill have a solid block and torquey as hell

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i wasnt trying to say they are weak at all, like im doing a crvtec myself. i forgot to add in my last post the high RPM thing. I read that over 200hp and high RPMs a B20 block wont last long. Larry at Theoldone.com blew his crvtec and nothing on the block was salvageable, it was at 220WHP and 10k rpms that why.

 

i do hear from alot of tuner shops around here that they think b20 blocks are weak and they all recommend resleeving it no matter what you plan on doing to it. its good to be safe though

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