FellipeFFB Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Hey guys. I have a 2000 D17Y7 in a 92 hatch and just had something go wrong with the motor. I took it apart after doing compression/leak checks and I am confused. At cylinder number one, there was only 80 PSI so I figured that the ring must have been blown. I did a leak test and I head a leak elsewhere. So i said F it and took the head off. No sign of damage, so maybe it's a valve seal/seat or it was the head gasket. I am not sre so I said hmm it's time to upgrade. Soooo I was wondering. I am going to boost the motor for sure and I am aiming towards somewhere in the 300s to the wheels. Can you guys give me advice as to exactly what pistons/robs I should look into and anything else that I should do to the bottom end. Head work - How much should I do to the head and I figured that it would probably be best to do with a y8 head since it would flow better. Let me know what you guys think and which path I should head down. I was going to do a B swap but it will come out to the just about the same and I would have a better motor since I built it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 CP Pistons RM rods No headwork Y7 head has the same intake/exhaust ports as the Y8 does. Same chambers as the Z6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 3, 2006 Author Share Posted December 3, 2006 How about compression. What should I shoot for? How about compression. What should I shoot for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 all depends on if your gonna boost it or not , if you want 300 hp , your gonna need boost , lol. if youve never broken a timing belt , and the valves arent visably burnt , than i doubt theres anything wrong with the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 3, 2006 Author Share Posted December 3, 2006 Of course I'm going to boost it haha I already have a turbo kit that I put together myself, but the stock motor wasn't acting right so I decided to just go ahead and rebuilt it for a whole lot more boost. Do you guys have anymore advice before I get started ? Should I bother with sleeves ? How about sleeve savers ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kicksome123 Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 woot really looking forward to you building it, when you get the parts and everything pics or ban! lol I think I wanna boost my D just all depends. How much money are you putting into it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 3, 2006 Author Share Posted December 3, 2006 woot really looking forward to you building it, when you get the parts and everything pics or ban! lol I think I wanna boost my D just all depends. How much money are you putting into it? However much it takes, but I'm not building an all out race motor, just something quick with about 300 hp to the wheels. I need to figure out exactly what parts to get though, so I'm taking my time and suggestions/tips are more than welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 you want lower compression if your going boost. and you have a D16Y7 not D17 , lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 9:1 CP Pistons RM rods Resleeve runs $1,255 plus shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 no need to resleeve a D to turbo it. unless your going big. stock sleeves can handle more than you can afford to have. i hate to tel you this SSR , but that engine already is 9:1 , haha. fuk the forged internals unless you gonna push it. the average guy is looking for 250 hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 no need to resleeve a D to turbo it. unless your going big. stock sleeves can handle more than you can afford to have. i hate to tel you this SSR , but that engine already is 9:1 , haha. fuk the forged internals unless you gonna push it. the average guy is looking for 250 hp. In this instance however, the guy is looking for 300. Perhaps more work would be needed to handle that kind of pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 sorry missed that. stock sleeves can handle into the 300's , in a D series engine. what kind of pressure are you talking exactly? only thing that takes more heat in boost is rods really. crank but it can handle it. i mean , i doubt hes gonna push enough power to warp his sleeves. unless he doesnt get it tuned properly , and heats it up so much he melts a piston. but if you got the money to spend , go all out fuk it. leave the stock sleeves in there and blockguard it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 So you're telling him to use OEM pistons in it when he is rebuilding anyways? So you don't care to give advice that will lead to cracked ringlands... Sleeves don't warp, they crack. I have pics from an engine I built that did both of the above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 Can I see the pictures? Isn't 9:1 a little high for boost ? I though in the 8's it would be best. It seems as though I should keep the stock sleeves for 300? Would the sleeve savers be enough or like SSR said, will they crack ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 you want lower compression if your going boost. and you have a D16Y7 not D17 , lol. ooops, you are correct, I do have a d16y7, typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 you don't want too low, and have a low compression pig off boost...9ish is about right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Stock sleeves are fine. Block guards don't do anything. If you are going to crack your sleeves, they will crack with or without a block guard. Pics are big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 Stock sleeves are fine. Block guards don't do anything. If you are going to crack your sleeves, they will crack with or without a block guard. Pics are big. My buddy keeps telling me 8.5 to compensate for detonation, otherwise i'll have to run race gas for high boost. What's your input in that ? Also, how much was your motor puttig out when it gave out ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kicksome123 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 So I should be running the same thing hes running if I want boost, I want about the same hp as he is shooting for ^_^ about how much time and money will I need to put forth to reach 300whp I have the D16Y8... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 You don't need 8.5:1 to compensate for det. Detonation comes from bad tuning or too much boost than your gas can handle. 9:1, you can run on pump high grade. Not my engine. That was a customers B18C5 I built. He was running 9lbs on a Full-Race Stage 2 (IIRC) kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 You don't need 8.5:1 to compensate for det. Detonation comes from bad tuning or too much boost than your gas can handle. 9:1, you can run on pump high grade. Not my engine. That was a customers B18C5 I built. He was running 9lbs on a Full-Race Stage 2 (IIRC) kit. I figured for 300 I'd need at least 15psi, am I wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Depends on the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FellipeFFB Posted December 5, 2006 Author Share Posted December 5, 2006 Depends on the turbo. It's a 16G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Is that out of a mitsubishi? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Ok did my own research. Your gonna have to run high boost to get that snail to push you to 300. You're gonna need upgraded pistons and rods. I suggest Wiseco for pistons and Eagle H-beams for the rods. That'll hold all you put to 'em. It ain't necessary but I suggest getting some head work done, i.e. ; 3 way port and polish, new valves, valve springs and retainers, and deffo upgrade your fuel system. New pump, fuel rail, FPR, and bigger injectors. But thats just my $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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