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What I bought/installed have been crossed off.


well, obviously the H22 idea was a bad one, but i'm making a profit off of it, so that should be nice...in class today i wrote down what i wanted to do that was reasonable, with not too much crazy modifications like the H22 swap would have been....so bear with me. here it goes.



-B18C1 Head


-3-way Valve Job

-GSR Water Pump

-GSR Timing Belt

-New Rod and Main Bearings

-New head gasket, Oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main seal, Oil return gasket, oil filter

-P72 Pistons

-GSR Oil Pump

-ARP Head Bolts

-Chipped P28 ECU by Evans Tuning

-RC 270 CC Injecters

-Holley 190 Fuel Pump

-AEM Fuel Rail and FPR


Manual Conversion

-GSR YS1 Cable Trans

-Clutchmasters Stage 1 Clutch

-Clutchmasters Stage 1 Pressure Plate

-Clutchmasters 8 lb Aluminum Flywheel

-Shift Linkage

-Passenger Side ABS Axle

-B&M Short Shifter

-Shifter Bushings, Stabilizer Bar Bolt and Washers, Clutch Cable Brackets, MT Starter, Starter Bolts, Left Motor Mount Bolts (extended), Fluids

-Pedal Assembly

-Clutch Cable/Accerater Cable

-MT Mounts

-MT Gauges

-ITR Shift Boot

-JDM Shift Knob



-DC-Sports 4-2-1 header

-RS*R Ex Mag Exhaust

-custom intake w/ K&N Filter

-MSD Spark Plug Wires

-NGK Iridium Plugs

-JDM B18C Camshafts

-AEM Adjustable Cam Gears



-'92 Integra Seats

-JDM DA Armrest

-Sony I-pod Compatible Head Unit

-Decent Trim Kit



-20% Tint

-Accord OEM Rear Lip

-JDM One-piece Headlights

-JDM Side-Markers

-JDM Amber Turns



-AEM Brake Pads

-Cross-drilled and Slotted Rotors



-D2 Coilovers

-Neuspeed Strut Bar

-Neuspeed Front and Rear Sway Bars

-Megan Racing Solid LCA's


this thread will be updated as i go along. yes, it will take a long time, but this is my project car, and i have to keep myself occupied somehow during college, so this is what i'm gonna do.


A pic will be posted after every "mod" so even if it's the arm rest....im posting a pic.


Ideas, Comments, and Questions are more than welcome!



Edited by 90IntegraC1
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I thought you were done with your car for awhile because you needed the money for other things. If you are going to keep spending money on the car then I think you should just stick it out with the H22 and be done with it. You already have most of the parts for the swap.

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I've got an extra Skunk2 shift knob new-in-box laying around if you want it. It's the previous style. Pretty much the same as the JDM ITR/CTR knobs, except for the Skunk2 written on the side. I think there's a new-in-box AEM fuel rail around here too, but if it still is then I'm not sure which it's for (it would be either B16 or LS).

Edited by CivicRacingGirl7
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Hung- I am taking a break, but I do not want to totally stop with everything.


Im going to be saving a lot of money, so around May i can start ordering the vtec head and b16 trans....i am being pressured to do the H22 now, and i really don't want to spend another 2K to get it installed.


All the techs i know who work at honda hate H-series motors, so they won't install it. The only shop that will do it is caharging $1500.


I can make a $1500 profit by selling this motor and make back the original $1000 i spent on it. This is a much better financial choice IMO.

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u know u can get an h22 with lsd for less than 3g's, right?

just do the swap yourself man :D


yeah a stock one. mine has over $1000 of work done to it.


im only asking $2500 now.


ITR Girl-that's sweet.


how much?

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  • 2 weeks later...
I installed Ford Taurus cup holders in my car today!!!




pic tomorrow maybe.....probably not though...we'll see


i couldve sworn you did that like a month ago, maybe you were just talking about it

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i bought them at a junkyark a month ago, so yeah i was talking about it....


but today i took a hack saw and a file to them and they work great...removable too, so only installed when needed, otherwise they're in the glove box.

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dont get too excited cause it wont work , lol. if you use p30 pistons with a B18B rods and crank , it will give you a 12.2:1 CR. and it dont matter what oil , water pump you use. the ones in the B18B will be fine.

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-20% tint is illegal in PA. -30% is legal limit. just an fyi. but if i were you dan, i would focus on the hardest stuff first, (ie the tranny and motor) then do the finishing touches with the jdm shift knob and itr boot.


good luck man. i wanna see this work. and when i get a sol, i want you 5 lengths ahead of me...even if i'm running low 13's.

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i am aware about the tint....


but i don't give a shiat...


and i want to go NA...therefore finding ways to bump the C/R.


who can recommend a nice set-up in terms of pistons/rods/etc.....

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B18B block , with B18B rods and crank , and usdm B16A pistons will give you CR of 11.9:1.


B18B block , B18C1 crank and rods , with usdm B16A pistons , will give you CR of 11.7:1.


B18C1 block , B18C1 crank and rods , with usdm B16A pistons will give you CR of 11:1.


using B16A head. the first 2 setups will give you a measurement of .014" piston to deck height(distance from piston to top of block sleeve when piston is at TDC. which is good. the 3rd setup will give you .036" piston to deck height which is also ok.


heres a cool one , B20B block , B16A crank , B16B rods(good luck finding them , lol) , with usdm B16A pistons will give you CR of 10.5:1. if you use JDM B16A pistons it will give you CR of 10.7:1 , and piston to deck height of .034".

Edited by cranny
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