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The final word on Oil types...


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Ok, I've gone to 3 different independent Jap import mechanics, and they all say different things, one said it's ok to use 5W-30, the other says stick with the recommended 5W-20, and the third said I could use "whatever I want" :unsure: . I don't want plugged up oil ports in the block, or a clogged EGR valve, can anyone shed light on this??

 

Also, the book says to use 4.5 qt, but I've heard of people just dumping straight up 5 qts, without any fuss, and theres been no hard evidence to the contrary for this. any ideas on that too????

 

 

Thanks,

 

JB

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Ok, I've gone to 3 different independent Jap import mechanics, and they all say different things, one said it's ok to use 5W-30, the other says stick with the recommended 5W-20, and the third said I could use "whatever I want" :unsure: . I don't want plugged up oil ports in the block, or a clogged EGR valve, can anyone shed light on this??
damn you went to 3 mechanics just for oil reconmendations..

if your not sure and you think we are wrong, have you ever tried opening your manual? it tells you loads of infomation like the new civic hybrids must use 0w20, and the s2000 must use 10w30.

 

also, the oil filler cap says to use reconmended.. so i would stay at that unless you have a 1991 honda accord with 250000+miles i would run 20w50 thick weight just to be on the safe side..

 

no oil weight can plug up oil ports in block or clog egv valve, unless you are using used or andwith oil lubercated additives

Also, the book says to use 4.5 qt, but I've heard of people just dumping straight up 5 qts, without any fuss, and theres been no hard evidence to the contrary for this. any ideas on that too????

Thanks,

 

JB

JB, year, make, model??

a 1991 accord lx isnt the same as a 2010 accord lx.

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I would use 10W30. 5W30 is prolly fine, and even what your manual will tell you, but it can't hurt to be safe. Use an engine system and fuel system cleaner every time you change it too (for the engine cleaner, don't use the additive type, use the type you pour in before an oil change, idle the engine for 5 minutes, and then, change the oil).

 

Also, do your oil changes proper. Add four quarts. Start the engine and check the level, and add as necessary. Overfilling can be a problem just like underfilling so don't just "dump five quarts in."

 

If you don't know how to locate the right type of oil and fill your crankcase properly, you should prolly not be doing your own oil changes. Get some experienced supervision, at least the first time.

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0w20 is on the thing side. THe first number only means how the oil acts before it gets warmed up by the engine. So basically a 0w is going to be easier to cold start than a 10w, but once they get warmed up the 0w30 and a 10w30 will pretty much be the same. Both will be 30 weights when hot and the first number won't even matter at this point. I'm not going to get into particulars, but they require 0w20 in the hybrids and the cars that get great gas milegae for that very reason.....0w20 oil will yield a higher gas mileage than a 10w30......but that's with a minor sacrifice in protection. Of course the gas mileage increase is minor as well, but every mpg counts these days with manufacturers.

 

Cliff notes:

You'll be fine running 10w30 or 0w20 either one

For a little added protection run 10w30

For the best gas mileage run 0w20

 

I trust honda's reccomendation and believe that the difference in protection is not going to keep the honda from running 200k+ miles if otherwise properly maintained.

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The newer Hondas take 5w-20... My mom's 2003 civic and my dad's 2004 civic both are recommended 5w-20, and I think the last time I was at the Honda dealer there was a chart there that said all the new cars with 5w-20. My 2000 is 5w-30 though, and it can take 10w-30 and be fine in certain temperatures as well...

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If I lived in the South (florida) I'd run straight 30 weight. It would be much better since you'd never see really cold weather. People also need to remember that the 5w or 10w only matters for the first 5 minutes your car is running. Even if it's 5 degrees outside, once the car is warmed up a 5w30 and 10w30 will both be 30 weight oils and essentially the same.

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That's an interesting point, Hung, about the first number being rendered meaningless after the first 10 minutes of driving. Perhaps I should be using 5W30 after all, considering it gets mighty cold in my area in the winters.

 

Then again, is it at all negative to use 5W30 in the winters and 10W30 in the summers?

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Most people think that the first number and W means the weight of the oil in the winter. That's not really true. It all has to do with how well the oil will flow upon start up in cold weather. (There is a difference) Having a lower number means it will be easier to flow when you first start it up in cold weather. This would obviously be important to having your engine protected until the car gets started.

 

From the motor oil bible

 

"The first number (the "5" in 5w30) is only a relative number which basically indicates how easily it will

allow an engine to "turn over" at low temperatures. It is NOT a viscosity reference. In other words, a

10w30 is NOT a 10 weight oil in cold temperatures and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures."

 

"Besides, if you thought about it for a second, it wouldn't make sense for a 10w30 oil to be a 10 weight

oil in the cold and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures. What liquid do you know of that gets "thicker"

as its temperature increases or "thinner" as the temperature decreases?"

 

 

Hope that helps.

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One of the main reasons that multi-grade oils aren't as good as monograde for summer applications is that in order to get the oil to flow well in cold temperatures, many companies will start with a lower weight for example in a 10w30 they'd start with a 20 weight oil, add in pour point depressants to help the oil stay thinner in cold weather and then add viscosity improvers to make the oil come back up to a 30 weight. Viscosity Improvers will break down over time though so after awhile you're essentially running a 20 weight oil when you actually put in 10w30. This is much more common with patroleum basestocks than with synthetic basestocks.

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oh... yeah... I got a 01 Accord V6

 

Sorry, should have mentioned that earlier..

 

the oil cap says 5W-20.... Will I be getting slightly less mileage with a 5W-30? I don't want to put in 10W-30, because that stuff makes the engine work a little harder, and besides, it's too early on a car that has only 69,000 miles.... right??

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You're fine with either 5w20 or 5w30. You might get a little less mileage but it won't be a lot. You'd notice a bigger difference based on your driving style. Do you ever drive your car hard? Take it to redline? etc.... If so, then don't worry about the gas mileage part because you'll notice a bigger difference from spirited driving. If you are very careful with how you drive to make sure you get the best mpg......always trying to get the absolute best, then stick with the 5w20.

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