mountaindewguy Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 hey all, long time no see! how has everyone been? i've started a new job and getting ready for deer season has taken up alot of my time. anyways, i need to get the final ideas and parts ready to start my N/A LSVTEC build. i know i have been saying its gonna get done for a while now,but with this new job, i can finall start this fall. so i need some questions answered so i can get under way: first, i'm thinking of getting CTR pistons instead of the GSR jdm ones i have. i hear that will give me close to if not over 12 something compression. is this too much for a partly daily driver or for longer trips? or will i be ok? second, the A/C system, and power steering system. how do i setup the A/C so it still works in my civic? (which is a 95 by the way) do i use the B series pump or the SOHC one on my engine? and do i use the stock civic lines and hookups otherwise? what pump do i use for PS, and do i use those hookups too? third, i know i need b series axles/half shafts, do i need anything else? or do i just use my civic's stock hubs/brakes, etc...? fourth, the radiator, is my civics radiator and cooling system sufficient? fifth, i am going with stage 2 cams from crower more than likely. do i need aftermarket cam gears? if so how do i set them? just put them even/ parallel with each other like stock gears? or is there a dif. way im supposed to do it? and last, do i just use a regular engine belt for the lsvtec? thats assuming power steering and AC are hooked up, or do i use a difference size? thats it so far, my goal date is march 26 at the latest, the reason so late is because i have ALOT of christmas and birthday shopping to do between now and then, otherwise, it SHOULD be done. list of mods that will be done: LS block ls rods resized, arp bolts CTR pistons vtec oil and water pump, and timing belt GSR head crower stage 2's w/ matching springs/retainers and cam gears blox intake manifold intake header (dc) full 2 1/2 exhaust (greddy or tanabe) b16 tranny stage 2 clutch light flywheel short shifter new crank bearings, rod bearings, rings, etc... Pre-tuned ECU from phearable.net motor mount bushings thats it, any other mods you guys can think of? my goal, w/ slicks and the bushings is a 13.99, think its possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16bhonda Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 i don't think ctr pistons would give you 12:1 compression. i may be wrong though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 I'll figure out the compression in a sec. Use B series pump for AC. B series half shafts. Stock radiator works, but may as well spend a little more and get a good one. Plus new radiator = new bling Cam gears should set like normal cam gears lol. My AEM one worked well. 12:0 is driveable daily. Get a good tune, and call it a day. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Get RM headwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 can't afford the headwork, and the nearest place to tune is at least 7 hours away. the phearable ECU should work for the time being until i can make a trip to one of those places. what about power steering? and i said close to 12, i hear high 11 something, possibly 12, thats just what i've HEARD. did you figure comp. solles? AND... the reason i ask about cam gears is i've been told by several people to set them +1/-1, or should i stick to keeping them parallel/even like stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 you around solles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 whisteling the jeopardy theme.. any input from anyone else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Sorry man. I'll do the compression in a minute here. I'd honestly suggest saving and then getting the headwork from SSR. For the little bit of money we are talking, you are gaining up to 40whp depending on the IM and header you use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Ok. Well, Here are a couple of numbers I figured out, and something just doesn't seem right. B18B block, LS rods, GSR head, OEM 3 layer HG, LS Crank, CTR pistons = an insanely high 14.38:1 B18B block, LS rods, GSR head, OEM 3 layer HG, LS Crank, ITR pistons = a good strong 11.95:1 Now that is with the standar sized rod. If you know what size the rods will be after resizing, let me know and I will correct the CR's. But honestly, I'm thinking the ITR pistons are a better bet. They have a dome of 3.64cc and a comp height of 30.23mm. As compared to the CTR's at 8.63 dome height, and 30.73 mm comp height. Go with the ITR's man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 what would all get done from the headwork with him? thanks for the numbers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 the reason i ask is he hasn't been online in about 5 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 SOLLES: trying to finish this with as few as posts as possible lol. so last questions for you: what type of headwork is done by SSR? and, lets say i get type R, or b16 pistons, what gas will i have to run? will premium be sufficient? (91/93 octane) and remainder questions: Power steering hookup....? Anything besides halfshafts and axels? are the civics hubs/brakes good to hookup to all this? and do i just use a regular B series engine belt, assuming the power steering and AC are hooked up? thank you solles and to anyone that will reply! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 i dunno about the 14.38:1 C/R i'd say closer to 12.4:1 if my calculations are correct... CR=((pi)b^2s)/4+Vc ---------------- Vc b=cylinder bore s=stroke length Vc=volume of combustion chamber, including head gasket pi=the actual sign for pi is not on a computer is that the formula you used solLess? edit: the stuff on the top is supposed to be divided by Vc, but i don't know how to show that on a computer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Yes an no. I have a compression calculator on my computer. The thing is this man. The dome of the CTR's is way different than the ITR's. I talked to a couple of people and they said the ITR's are the way to go. They said the actual piston to deck height is perfect with them and the rods won't need to be resized much, if any. For the compression with the ITR's, 91-93 will be fine, with the Phearable ECU. As far as power steering, I say ditch it, but if you want to keep it, just use the same motor and everything you have now. If you have to change it for whatever reason, I would assume the pump for the Del sol VTEC would be the one to go with. Same with AC too. 90- That is the correct formula but I checked my numbers three times and on three different calculators. It is well over 13, even with the OEM 3 layer HG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 ok, ITR pistons, regular gas, phearable ECU, b series PS and AC pumps, civics hookups. now just the halfshafts and axels, all i need? and what about the engine belt? do you have a link to the RM website? sorry for all the questions solles, you've been a HUGE help and i appreciate it, i just want everything answered as soon as possible, i think i got everything else down, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 His headwork is cheaper than what they charge on the site. He hooks it up in most cases. Port by RM, RM retainers/springs and cam would be a nice setup. Crower 2 is good too. If you go that route, get the porting done by Portflow. Engine belt should be the same deal man. Axles and half shafts are what you need. Go to google for the RM site if you really want, but the site kinda sucks. No problem. I like helping. Edit: Get the B16A2 pistons if you can get them for the 20 bucks you PM'ed me about. That will take the compression to about 12.23 with the C1 head, Ls stock rods, OEM 3 layer and 8500 max operating RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 i couldn't get them in time, oh well, they get easier and easier to come by. i might just stick with the jdm GSR ones i got or get some Type r's. thanks man! and where the hell is ssr, he hasn't been on in almost a week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I am ..SSR.. Not. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 no no no, you mean you're optional187 hahahahahaha. for real though ,if he leaves for this long he usually makes a post... is he dead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I hope not. Anyway. I want to start a motor build now. I don't want to spend the money though. College is more important as much as I hate to say it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 AND... the reason i ask about cam gears is i've been told by several people to set them +1/-1, or should i stick to keeping them parallel/even like stock? if you keep them parrallel then just stick with stock gears so you dont have to worry about the gears slipping. thats what i would do atleast just to be on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 people have always told me when i go to stage 2 cams or better, that you need adjustable gears, why do they say that? and i hear ya about the schooling solles, i took a year and a half off and start in spring, thank god for student loans! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 for tuning purposes lol. i would assume with the lobes and duration being bigger/longer that it makes more risk of the valves interfering with the pistons. tuning the adj. cam gears would eliminate the risk, or make it less of a risk. thats what i think at least. i dont know the people who told you that lol but im guessing thats why they say it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Use B16A2 pistons. Crower cams don't make power. RM M22X cams usually make the most power at 0,0 (stock setting for stock cam gears). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewguy Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 how much are these cams? money is slightly an issue. SSR, i need to speak to you, sending a pm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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