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have you ever seen a t28? there tiny ass turbos. go T3 for your GSR. and do the smart thing and buy a garrett turbo. not only do they last longer , there cheaper to rebuild. T3 spool just as fast as a T28 with todays technology.

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B18c5 block

b16 type r head

 

I'm still debating between a few different setups....but....I am actually about to start the build in the fall.

 

Any good ideas??? Maybe ya'll have similar to what I have in mind? I do plan on running boost but I'm not sure how much yet...at least 10 lbs. All depends on what setup and vice versa lol.

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Yeah, a quick spool and linear powerband to 290whp is gay. It's tiny compared to what you'd put on a built 2.0 trying to run 9's.

 

Nothing special about a Type R block. B16 R head is the same as B18 R head. Just get a GSR head and get some headwork.

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B16 head better for LSVTEC. i know quick spool is good SSR , T3 will spool just as fast as T28 ,(also something you should know from experience). linear powerband? what are we building an F1 car?? noone cares about technical babble like linear powerbands , they just want to be able to beat whats considered a faster car. turbo'd cars make more power at higher revs dude. its the way it is. T3 turbo wont lag if thats what your saying. ever drive a saab 9-3? they spool very early. and make strong boost although saabs blow ass , lol.

 

i agree about type r block , dont know why people think there all that. type R head maybe on an LS block.

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bored, 89mm

high comp pistons

Stage 2 Racing Camshafts

new Valves

GReddy Extreme Timing Belt

head gasket

Fidanza Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel

Unorthodox Racing Ultra S Underdrive Crank Pulleys

AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gear (x2)

GReddy Fuel Injectors, AEM High Performance Fuel Filter, HKS Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator,AEM High Volume Fuel Rails

A.C.T. Xtreme Clutch Kit

Injen IS Series Intake System

Tanabe Ultra Medallion Cat-back Exhaust

GReddy Bolt-On Turbocharger Kit

Tein SS (Super Street) Coilovers

Rotora Crossdrilled / Slotted Big Brake Kits

$9,973.01

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to tell you the truth, ive never had turbo so i wouldnt know, just thought it was a trusted name... and the pistons i thought you had to have to handle the extra output... sorry to dissapoint you guys

 

ive never built a motor before, its my first honda so i wouldnt know. my old car was a 94 m3 and it got some electrical problems so i sold it, never needed any work under the hood on it. but i am thinking about building this car, so why dont you guys give me some sound advice on a solid build for the h22

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-1980 chevy malibu, very light car--$400-$800

-BluePrint Engines 383 stroker 405 HP 440 TQ $3099.00

-used serpentine belts $200

-weiand team G single plane 3000-8200 rpm $200

-Crane Cams Sollid Roller cam 284-292 duration .630/.630 lift $289.99

-Comp cams pro-magnum steel roller rockers 1.6 ratio $259.99

-comp cams triple valve springs $304.99

-comp cams magnum pusrods .100 longer then stock $89.99

-dart pro 1 aluminum heads 2.05.1.6 valves, 215cc intake .620

max lift 64cc chambers $1216

-mickey thompson sportsman pro 29x18.5 rear tires, 26x7.5 front

tire totals $585.96

-junkyard rear end $500

-turbo 400 tranny $900

-4000rpm stall converter $400

-moroso brute strength differential $479.99.

-10 point rollcage kit $250.

-headmans 1 3/4" long tubes 135.99

-two 4 foot lengths of 3 inch pipe $30

-header to exhaust flange $25.00

 

Grand spanking total $9,800.99

Calulated 1/4 mile time

-10.47 @ 128 mph

Calculated 1/8 mile time

-6.71 @ 102.9mph

 

Thats with the interior fully installed. whoot whoot

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for one thing , that setup will not run 10's. and even if it did , a junkyard rearend aint gonna hold together for a 10 second 1/4. you didnt even mention posi rearend or rearend gear ratio. you think you can make a smallblock run 10's with heads? even if it is stroked for get it. and you also mentioned a solid roller cam??? wtf are you talking about man , you trying to bullcrap these guys? prolem is i know better. theres solid lifters(solid lifter cam) , and roller lifters(rollercam , like 86-up 5.0 stangs). anyways nice try chev boy. do yourself a favor and ditch chev power cause it aint worth crap. and im not diggig chev right now , ford power is just better , period , factual.

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ehh...10 grand

 

 

-Perrin Rotated GT30R Turbo Kit

which includes:

 

custom Uppipe & downpipe, external wastegate

 

-Perrin Big Maf intake

-APS FMIC

-860cc Injectors

-Walbro fuel pump

-Methanol Injection

 

Cobb Short Block

Forged pistons

 

and lets throw some Volks in there.

 

that should be around 10k.

 

 

 

 

....Oh, and the items listed with a - in front....

 

those are my upcoming mods :D (well, that im saving for)

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well you dont have to believe me but i used a calculator that i paid 40 dollars for, it cant be too off. the rear end ratio is a locking 4:11. sorry bud but you obviously have some learning to do to argue with that. also jsut to state the calculator is based on raw numbers, so the driver and tires used will affect it obviously. that is with best conditions and a perfect driver, probably along wiht drag slicks not mickey thompsons. call me a chevy boy because its hard for you to face the facts. no offense to anyone here but cranny i think your a pecker head sometimes.

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sorry if i mis worded it but mechanicle roller is what i meant. roller cams are now made that retro fit right into older generation 350's. dont believe me? take a look for yourself smart one. glad you could find something to jump on though.

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...ategoryId=10707

 

and before you try to get smarter with your cams, there is mechanical roller cams, use mech roller lifters, and hydraulic roller cams, with hydraulic rolle rlifters. hydraulic roller lifters are better for high performance street so you can have that big race roller cam without constantly adjusting valve lash, and both types of roller cams are specially designed to fit right into older sb chevy's with little extra work. and while your out galavanting about your knowledge like any hot head kid, go find me one ford part that is cheaper then gm's equal part. and also, go find me a ford 351 that has outlasted a chevy 350.

 

if you were as smart as you would like people to believe, youwould also realize that there is a lot more to it then a stroker with heads. first of all youve got your combustion chamber size, which going from a 9:1 to an 11:1 compression is atleast 30 horsepower, along with the bigger valves, and portmatched to the intake manifold can make some respectable gains. dont get the wrong idea i dont think im the smartest kid here, theres people here that know stuff ive never even heard of, but try not to approach someone like that, because it wouldnt be me typing to you if it were in person.

 

oh i 4got to mention about your rear end comment. the axles and differential are taking the stress, a junked 12 bolt with a new differntial and axles would eat it up all day.

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yea and by the time you get the new car and drive it for a while the prices will be higher so it will be like driving the same car as before. but i guess its kindof a sense of relief. thats why i jsut sawy fawk it and put 93 in the vehicles im driving because every month or couple of months that high price im payin will be the price of 87.

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