95 civic hatch...

[95whtcivichatch]

ive got a stock 95 civic hatch VX crapty motor i know. i put a short ram intake on it, for craps n giggles, well just recently within 24 hours, my v-tec e does not kick in it at all...it will not red line, when the RPMs get to 5500 it like "coughs"...whats the deal...and motor swaps...if i could get a GSR motor, heads blown, everything else is fine for 400 should i do it and re-do the top part? or should i put a prelude motor in my car for bigger displacement???

 

i really appreciate any help any of yall can give me...thanks a lot!

[stetypeR]

Could be somthing as simple as your oil level being to low id check that for a start.

[95whtcivichatch]

when i got home from work, had to drive home ya know...i lightly tapped on the "vtec" thinkin its possibly going out, or something, like youd lightly tap on the starter, and drove it again, and its still doin the same thing, my oil is fine, i checked that...

[xalexjx@yahoo.com]

check your ecu to make sure no wires cam unplugged, also check the engine bay for unplugged wires,

[95whtcivichatch]

where exactly in my engine bay is my ecu?

[xalexjx@yahoo.com]

engine bay is where the engine is, ecu under passenger floormat,

 

just look for a wire that looks unplugged,,you may have accidently unplugged one when you were putting in the intake or something

 

also your engine probly could use a tune up including the fuel filter and so forth, but if you want to scrap it here ya go,

 

http://www.hondaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=13646

 

5th Generation

 

1. B16A2/3: Completely bolt-in Swap, VTEC needs to be wired, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol

2. B18B: Completely bolt-in swap, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol

3. B17A: Completely bolt-in swap, cable-hydro transmission kit(not recommended) or hydraulic b-series transmission, VTEC needs to be wired.

4. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.

5. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.

6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.

7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired.

8. B16A: Not recommended! Too much work, more costly compared to B16A2/3's.

9. D16Z6: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired.

10. D16Y8: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired.

 

edit: also some of these need diff axles

 

heres the specs on the engines:

 

ZC:

Price: 750.00

1395cc (1.6L) DOHC or SOHC VTEC

130hp/91tr

10.9 Compressions Ratio

Cable Tranny

130hp

 

B16A1:

Price: 1350.00

1595cc (1.6L) DOHC VTEC

160hp/112tr

10.2 Compression Ratio

Cable Transmission

160 HP

 

B16A2:

Price: 2350.00

1595cc (1.6L) DOHC VTEC

170hp/112tr

10.4:1 Compression Ratio

Hydraulic Transmission

170 HP

you want the b16a2, its an easy affordable swap that will give you a good base for boost

 

B16B:

Price: 4600.00

 

B18B(LS):

Price: about 500

1500cc (1.8L) DOHC

150hp/100trq

11.5 Compression Ratio

Cable Tranny

 

B18C1(GSR):

Price: 3300.00

1797cc (1.8L) DOHC VTEC

180hp/129trq

10.6:1 Compression Ratio

Hydraulic Transmission

180HP

 

B18C5(ITR):

Price: 4800.00

1797cc (1.8L) DOHC VTEC

197hp/134trq

11:1 Compression Ratio

Hydraulic LSD Transmission

190 HP

 

B20:

thin cylinder walls, not the best to boost

Price: 900.00

 

 

H22A:

Price: 2500.00

2.157cc (2.2L) DOHC VTEC

200hp/161trq

10.6 Compression Ratio

Hydraulic Transmission

200HP

 

H22A Type S:

Price: 4500.00

 

 

JDM F20B:

Price: 4000.00

200hp/145 trq

 

 

K20:

Price: around 10k when the whole swap is done

200 hp 158 trq

I-VTEC

[SolLesHonda]

I'd say good post, but you typed none of that. And you didn't even acknowledge where you stold that info from. That's wrong, and I'd be pissed if I had wrote all of that, and you just stole it without at least an honorable mention of the site or his name. Ass.

[CleanGSR]

No kidding. THat's called plagiarism and it's illegal.

[95whtcivichatch]

ok, so i went to my boys house, and he told me that the V-TEC E is just most likely dirty, so i think tomorrow sometime, i am going to take it off, and clean it, and check it out, also he said he has a V-TEC from a B16 and he said i can put it on my car...TRUE or FALSE? and what would i need to do to do that, if anything???

[xalexjx@yahoo.com]

did i claim credit to any of that, NO...its not plagarism,

 

false, what exactly are you talking about? the actual vtec cylonoid..d series and b series engines are totaly diff and the parts wil most likly not match

[95whtcivichatch]

yes, the actual vtec cylonoid needs to be cleaned, i didnt see any unplugged wires, when i rev it from the engine, it sounds fine, but when im driving it, it doesnt kick in at all anymore...

[adamEj6]

not to stir anything up, but why do you guys get so pissed about if he copy and pasted a big thing and didnt say where he got it from and also why do you correct like every spelling and punctual marks?

[Humphries]

because we can.

[SolLesHonda]

because we can.

 

+1 ... and don't stir anything up. Just don't get into it.

[CleanGSR]

I know if I had spent the time to write something out that took a lot of work and then someone posted it somewhere without giving me credit, I'd be pissed. That's why I said something.

[cranny]

B16 head dont fit your engine but if you can get a whole engine tranny and ecu id put the whole B16 in my car. vtec solenoid not kickin in vtec is one thing but the car not red lining on full throttle? thats another thing altogether. your cars vtec not engaging is nothin to do with the car not reachin its redline under full throttle.

[not_all_motor_civic94]

my 95 civic done the same thing vtec would not work and it would go to 6500 and stop just like his is doin....this guy i know that works at the dealer ship said if vtec dont kick in its messin up the computers timin and i took if off and replaced it with another cylonoid i had it worked and ran fine!