xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted February 18, 2006 Share Posted February 18, 2006 (edited) wiring a b16a2 into a 92-95 civic (common swap) http://www.hondaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=13533 Basics of Engine Swaps: what fits in what Overview In order to properly cover every aspect this section will be broken down into many sections. First, its important to decide what you’re goals are. If you’re interested in running 15 second quarter miles without hassle or complication then finding a B16 is probably your best bet. Some of us are interested in running 11 and 12 second quarter miles. For this type of performance it’s important to plan every detail so that the engine is capable and reliable when asked to perform. Another part of planning that should be done before the swap begins is whether or the engine will be naturally aspirated or have forced induction. These are all questions that need to be answered before the swap so that you’re satisfied when everything is complete. Finding the Proper Engine: There are many engine choices for each vehicle so we’ll cover all of them. First it’s important to understand that On Board Diagnostics play a large role in which engines are easiest and recommended. All Honda’s 1991 and earlier are considered OBD 0. This means that the engines don’t utilize any oxygen sensors and have little in the way of emissions control. Next there are OBD 1 engines that are found in all cars from 1992-1995. These vehicles have traditionally been the best platform for the most “factory-like” hybrids. Finally, anything from 1996-1998 is OBD 2. 1999-2000 is OBD 2b. It’s also important to remember that its only legal to swap in engines of the same or newer OBD series. That is to say that an OBD2 engine can be placed into a 1988 CRX legally and without many wiring problems. Consequently its illegal in most states to use OBD 0 engines in cars that should have OBD1 or OBD2 power plants. Of course there are people who disregard these laws and regulations but its not recommended or necessarily that easy. 4th Generation: 1. ZC, D16A8, D16A9: Completely Bolt-In Swap. Transmission: Use ZC/D16A8/D16A9 Tranny Shift Linkage: Use stock Civic/CRX shift linkage Axles: Stock Civic/CRX Wiring: Retain stock harness Upper Radiator Hose: stock Lower Radiator Hose: stock Throttle Cable: stock *There may be clearance issues with the ZC, either a new hood, trimming of the old hood or trimming the valve cover is required. 2. B16A: Mount kit required Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1 Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra Axles: B16A Axles Wiring: DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection first. To use PR3 or PW0 four wires need to be added, VTEC, VTEC oil pressure, knock sensor and second O2. Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 90 Integra Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. Emissions: Purge cutoff solenoid valve needs to be Teed into the fuel pressure regulator for vacuum source. 3. B18A: Mount kit required Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1 Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra Axles: B18B Axles Wiring: For Si, EX, and HF (port injection) models modify the engine harness to fit. DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection. Custom wiring harnesses are available for dual point injection applications from Hasport. Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 90 Integra Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. OBD1-OBD2 Engine Swaps into 89-91 Civic/CRX To install an OBD1-OBD2 engine into your 4th Generation Civic/CRX the following adjustments will need to be made. First, if your car has dual point injection a conversion will need to be made to port injection. All Integra's 1994 and up and Civic's 1992 and up all use hydraulic transmissions. Therefore its not compatible with 4th Gen Civic's because these vehicles have cable transmissions. To complete the swap a B-series cable transmission will need to be used or a cable-hydro transmission conversion will need to be made. The left side bracket needs to be changed to a 1990-1993 Integra bracket. For the ECU, it is best to use the ECU which belongs with the engine. Several wiring adjustments will need to be made to make the engine run correctly. For LS-VTEC's, CRVTEC's and other Frankenstein's it is easiest to use the ECU that corresponds to the distributor and head. There are also reprogrammed ECU's which can be considered. 4. B17A/B16A2/B16A2/B16B: Mount kit required Transmission: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket p/n # ECU: B16A ECU/B17A Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. The axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01. Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage. Wiring: For these engines, you will want the injectors, ECU and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then use Hasport conversion harness p/n #W88-Si-VTEC for the additional wires needed to run VTEC. Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 90 Integra Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. B18C/B18C5: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket. Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. Click here to see the modification needed. If the axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01. Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage. Wiring: For this engine, you will want the injectors and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then the VTEC and air intake bypass can be hooked up with the addition of only two wire to the ECU and one to ignition power. For dual point injected motors, Hasport sells a conversion harness to help. Upper Radiator Hose: 94+ GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 94+ GSR or Type R Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. 5th Generation 1. B16A2/3: Completely bolt-in Swap, VTEC needs to be wired, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol 2. B18B: Completely bolt-in swap, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol 3. B17A: Completely bolt-in swap, cable-hydro transmission kit(not recommended) or hydraulic b-series transmission, VTEC needs to be wired. 4. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 5. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired. 8. B16A: Not recommended! Too much work, more costly compared to B16A2/3's. 9. D16Z6: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired. 10. D16Y8: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired. 6th Generation 1. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 2. B16A2: Completely bolt in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 3. B16A3: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired, OBD Conversion. 4. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 5. B18B1: Completely bolt-in swap. 6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired. 8. D16Z6: Completely bolt-in, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 9. D16Y8: Completely bolt-in, VTEC needs to be wired. 7th Generation 1. K20A2: Completely bolt-in swap, shift linkage needs to be modified. K24: Mostly bolt-in swap, found in the 2002+ CRV, shift linkage needs to be modified. General info on swaps and prices The ZC is widely regarded as the easiest engine to swap into 4th Generation Civics. The positive aspects of this engine include the price; DOHC design, availability and both engines are directly bolt in. The ZC is a Japanese Domestic Market engine and was featured in the CRX Si. And because this engine is D-series it will work with all D-series cable transmissions. The price for these motors can range from 500-750 depending on the source and condition with the transmission being optional. The Si transmission has the best gear ratio and will provide the best acceleration. Other choices include the DX and HF transmissions although the HF transmission is not well suited for high performance driving. Using the ZC transmission makes this swap slightly more complex. First, the axles and intermediate shaft need to be from the ZC or D16A1/3 setup. The computer and On Board Diagnostic's are all OBD 0 and there are several ECU's that can be used. These include the D16A6 ECU (Si), D16A1/3 (Integra), and or the ZC ECU. All have similar fuel cutoffs and with a stock drive train little power will be made above 7000rpm. The D16Z6 is another inexpensive option that can be installed without much trouble. This motor will bolt right in and can be found for around 600-800 dollars. The positive aspects of this engine include VTEC, availability, and price. Usually with this setup the d16 long block is mated with a cable d-series transmission. There are several options with the ECU. Either the D16Z ECU is used, or the stock ECU is retained and a VTEC controller added. *Remember, all 4th Generation Honda's use cable transmissions while 5th and 6th Generation Honda's use hydraulic transmissions. The B16A2/3 is the most popular swap and probably yields the best power for the cost. First generation B16's usually cost around 1200-1500 minus the cost of engine mounts. It is important to note that this engine will NOT bolt directly into a 4th generation engine bay. Aftermarket engine mounts from Hasport, Place Racing or self-fabricated mounts will need to be used. The first generation B16 also came stock with a cable transmission and for the complete swap the axles, intermediate shaft, and ECU will be needed. The B16B is a Japanese Domestic Motor and isn't very popular because of its smaller displacement and price tag. This engine was found in 1998 Civic Type R's and has a design similar to the B18C5. Its intake cam is slightly more aggressive and its compression is slightly higher. However, because of this engine's smaller displacement there it offers less torque. Therefore this engine offers little improvement over a B18C1 and when comparing price tags this engine is quickly dismissed. This engine comes with the same transmission as the ITR and has LSD. If the B16B can be purchased for less than 4000 it would be a great deal. Unfortunately its nearly impossible to find this engine that cheap and its recommended that a B16/B18 is purchased instead. The B18C1 came in USDM Acura Integra GSR's between the years of 1994-2001. This engine has 170 horsepower and 128lbs of torque, which makes for a very fast daily driven car. For this swap the shift linkage, axles, and ECU will all be needed. Another important aspect of this swap that should be considered is the year of the engine. Post 1995 engines are all OBD2 and this can make for an easier swap. However, its also important to realize that switching a car from OBD1 and OBD2 or vice versa is not as complicated as it sounds. Skunk2 and other companies even make a conversion harness that makes the wiring completely push and plug. The B17A is widely considered the "black sheep" of Honda B-series engines. This engine came in 1992-1993 Acura Integra GSR's and came with 160hp. However, the increased displacement compared to the B16 added 6 lbs of torque bringing its overall total to 117. To make this swap more complicated it's important to realize that this transmission is cable, not hydraulic, and its OBD is 1. Therefore, a cable to hydro transmission switch is required or the other option finding a hydraulic transmission. However, this engine is a viable option in 4th Generation Civic's and should be considered if found. All that's needed is a mount kit offered by Place Racing or Hasport. Usually these engines are rare and very few engine distributors are selling the B17 due to its unusual characteristics. Prices should range between 1800-2400 for this engine. The B18C5 came standard in 1997-2001 Integra Type R's. These engines are the highest performance B-series engine offered in the United States and carry the largest price tag. Compared a B18C1 these engines have higher performance camshafts, a lighter valve train and higher compression. In addition its intake manifold is designed for high-end horsepower, which does sacrifice some low-end torque. All of this amounts to 195 horsepower and 128 lbs of torque. The ITR transmission is the most highly sought after transmission coming standard with LSD and having the best final drive. Also, due to the age of these motors and their capability their price ranges between 4600 and 5200. The H22A is found in Prelude VTEC's and JDM Accord's. This engine comes with 190-220 horsepower and is not considered a great candidate for Civic's and Integra's because of its larger size and weight. Hasport and other companies are making a mount kit for this engine but the geometry of the car is changed dramatically. (The engine and transmission are 85lbs heavier than a GSR motor) However, with the right suspension and some weight reduction the front end can be lightened to the point where the car will be drivable. The benefit's from this engine is its increased low end torque. Unfortunately its very difficult to retain air conditioning and room in the engine bay is at a minimum. Plus, the H-series engines have a poor rod/stroke ratio which translates into less revving capability and less potential with high end horsepower. Overall, this swap is not recommended although it can be done. The D16Y8 is found in 96+ Civic EX's and Del Sol Si's. This engine is very similar to the D16Z6 but has 2 more horsepower and a square combustion chamber for an increase in compression due to the extra queche area. However, its OBD2 instead of OBD1. The "Mini-Me" is a hybrid engine that produces around 135hp. This setup is usually made from a DX(1.5liter) bottom end and D16Z6 or D16Y8 VTEC head. Because of the 1.5-liter's excellent rod-stroke ratio this little beast will make power to 8000rpm. Another interesting characteristic is the increased compression that results from this setup. Overall this engine is great for those who have some experience with engine building and can acquire the VTEC head for a good price. For information on LS/VTEC and CR/VTEC, view our article int he FAQ section. The K20A2 comes standard in the Acura RSX Type-S. This engine has 200 horsepower and 142lbs of torque and can be bolted into the new Civic Si. However, the Type-S has a 6-speed gear box while the Civic Si comes standard with a 5-speed. There are two ways to account for this change, one is to retain the Civic Si's transmission while the second is modifying the Civic Si's shift linkage so the 6 speed transmission can be used. Edited March 30, 2006 by xalexjx@yahoo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VR17 Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 wow great info for noobs.. il sticky this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 can a pinned topic be closed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nancy Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 Basics of Engine Swaps: what fits in what Overview In order to properly cover every aspect this section will be broken down into many sections. First, its important to decide what you’re goals are. If you’re interested in running 15 second quarter miles without hassle or complication then finding a B16 is probably your best bet. Some of us are interested in running 11 and 12 second quarter miles. For this type of performance it’s important to plan every detail so that the engine is capable and reliable when asked to perform. Another part of planning that should be done before the swap begins is whether or the engine will be naturally aspirated or have forced induction. These are all questions that need to be answered before the swap so that you’re satisfied when everything is complete. Finding the Proper Engine: There are many engine choices for each vehicle so we’ll cover all of them. First it’s important to understand that On Board Diagnostics play a large role in which engines are easiest and recommended. All Honda’s 1991 and earlier are considered OBD 0. This means that the engines don’t utilize any oxygen sensors and have little in the way of emissions control. Next there are OBD 1 engines that are found in all cars from 1992-1995. These vehicles have traditionally been the best platform for the most “factory-like” hybrids. Finally, anything from 1996-1998 is OBD 2. 1999-2000 is OBD 2b. It’s also important to remember that its only legal to swap in engines of the same or newer OBD series. That is to say that an OBD2 engine can be placed into a 1988 CRX legally and without many wiring problems. Consequently its illegal in most states to use OBD 0 engines in cars that should have OBD1 or OBD2 power plants. Of course there are people who disregard these laws and regulations but its not recommended or necessarily that easy. 4th Generation: 1. ZC, D16A8, D16A9: Completely Bolt-In Swap. Transmission: Use ZC/D16A8/D16A9 Tranny Shift Linkage: Use stock Civic/CRX shift linkage Axles: Stock Civic/CRX Wiring: Retain stock harness Upper Radiator Hose: stock Lower Radiator Hose: stock Throttle Cable: stock *There may be clearance issues with the ZC, either a new hood, trimming of the old hood or trimming the valve cover is required. 2. B16A: Mount kit required Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1 Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra Axles: B16A Axles Wiring: DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection first. To use PR3 or PW0 four wires need to be added, VTEC, VTEC oil pressure, knock sensor and second O2. Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 90 Integra Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. Emissions: Purge cutoff solenoid valve needs to be Teed into the fuel pressure regulator for vacuum source. 3. B18A: Mount kit required Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1 Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra Axles: B18B Axles Wiring: For Si, EX, and HF (port injection) models modify the engine harness to fit. DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection. Custom wiring harnesses are available for dual point injection applications from Hasport. Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 90 Integra Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. OBD1-OBD2 Engine Swaps into 89-91 Civic/CRX To install an OBD1-OBD2 engine into your 4th Generation Civic/CRX the following adjustments will need to be made. First, if your car has dual point injection a conversion will need to be made to port injection. All Integra's 1994 and up and Civic's 1992 and up all use hydraulic transmissions. Therefore its not compatible with 4th Gen Civic's because these vehicles have cable transmissions. To complete the swap a B-series cable transmission will need to be used or a cable-hydro transmission conversion will need to be made. The left side bracket needs to be changed to a 1990-1993 Integra bracket. For the ECU, it is best to use the ECU which belongs with the engine. Several wiring adjustments will need to be made to make the engine run correctly. For LS-VTEC's, CRVTEC's and other Frankenstein's it is easiest to use the ECU that corresponds to the distributor and head. There are also reprogrammed ECU's which can be considered. 4. B17A/B16A2/B16A2/B16B: Mount kit required Transmission: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket p/n # ECU: B16A ECU/B17A Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. The axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01. Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage. Wiring: For these engines, you will want the injectors, ECU and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then use Hasport conversion harness p/n #W88-Si-VTEC for the additional wires needed to run VTEC. Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 90 Integra Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. B18C/B18C5: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket. Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. Click here to see the modification needed. If the axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01. Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage. Wiring: For this engine, you will want the injectors and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then the VTEC and air intake bypass can be hooked up with the addition of only two wire to the ECU and one to ignition power. For dual point injected motors, Hasport sells a conversion harness to help. Upper Radiator Hose: 94+ GSR, trim to fit Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit Throttle Cable: 94+ GSR or Type R Clutch Cable: Stock Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor. Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance. 5th Generation 1. B16A2/3: Completely bolt-in Swap, VTEC needs to be wired, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol 2. B18B: Completely bolt-in swap, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol 3. B17A: Completely bolt-in swap, cable-hydro transmission kit(not recommended) or hydraulic b-series transmission, VTEC needs to be wired. 4. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 5. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired. 8. B16A: Not recommended! Too much work, more costly compared to B16A2/3's. 9. D16Z6: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired. 10. D16Y8: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired. 6th Generation 1. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 2. B16A2: Completely bolt in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 3. B16A3: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired, OBD Conversion. 4. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 5. B18B1: Completely bolt-in swap. 6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired. 8. D16Z6: Completely bolt-in, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 9. D16Y8: Completely bolt-in, VTEC needs to be wired. 7th Generation 1. K20A2: Completely bolt-in swap, shift linkage needs to be modified. K24: Mostly bolt-in swap, found in the 2002+ CRV, shift linkage needs to be modified. General info on swaps and prices The ZC is widely regarded as the easiest engine to swap into 4th Generation Civics. The positive aspects of this engine include the price; DOHC design, availability and both engines are directly bolt in. The ZC is a Japanese Domestic Market engine and was featured in the CRX Si. And because this engine is D-series it will work with all D-series cable transmissions. The price for these motors can range from 500-750 depending on the source and condition with the transmission being optional. The Si transmission has the best gear ratio and will provide the best acceleration. Other choices include the DX and HF transmissions although the HF transmission is not well suited for high performance driving. Using the ZC transmission makes this swap slightly more complex. First, the axles and intermediate shaft need to be from the ZC or D16A1/3 setup. The computer and On Board Diagnostic's are all OBD 0 and there are several ECU's that can be used. These include the D16A6 ECU (Si), D16A1/3 (Integra), and or the ZC ECU. All have similar fuel cutoffs and with a stock drive train little power will be made above 7000rpm. The D16Z6 is another inexpensive option that can be installed without much trouble. This motor will bolt right in and can be found for around 600-800 dollars. The positive aspects of this engine include VTEC, availability, and price. Usually with this setup the d16 long block is mated with a cable d-series transmission. There are several options with the ECU. Either the D16Z ECU is used, or the stock ECU is retained and a VTEC controller added. *Remember, all 4th Generation Honda's use cable transmissions while 5th and 6th Generation Honda's use hydraulic transmissions. The B16A2/3 is the most popular swap and probably yields the best power for the cost. First generation B16's usually cost around 1200-1500 minus the cost of engine mounts. It is important to note that this engine will NOT bolt directly into a 4th generation engine bay. Aftermarket engine mounts from Hasport, Place Racing or self-fabricated mounts will need to be used. The first generation B16 also came stock with a cable transmission and for the complete swap the axles, intermediate shaft, and ECU will be needed. The B16B is a Japanese Domestic Motor and isn't very popular because of its smaller displacement and price tag. This engine was found in 1998 Civic Type R's and has a design similar to the B18C5. Its intake cam is slightly more aggressive and its compression is slightly higher. However, because of this engine's smaller displacement there it offers less torque. Therefore this engine offers little improvement over a B18C1 and when comparing price tags this engine is quickly dismissed. This engine comes with the same transmission as the ITR and has LSD. If the B16B can be purchased for less than 4000 it would be a great deal. Unfortunately its nearly impossible to find this engine that cheap and its recommended that a B16/B18 is purchased instead. The B18C1 came in USDM Acura Integra GSR's between the years of 1994-2001. This engine has 170 horsepower and 128lbs of torque, which makes for a very fast daily driven car. For this swap the shift linkage, axles, and ECU will all be needed. Another important aspect of this swap that should be considered is the year of the engine. Post 1995 engines are all OBD2 and this can make for an easier swap. However, its also important to realize that switching a car from OBD1 and OBD2 or vice versa is not as complicated as it sounds. Skunk2 and other companies even make a conversion harness that makes the wiring completely push and plug. The B17A is widely considered the "black sheep" of Honda B-series engines. This engine came in 1992-1993 Acura Integra GSR's and came with 160hp. However, the increased displacement compared to the B16 added 6 lbs of torque bringing its overall total to 117. To make this swap more complicated it's important to realize that this transmission is cable, not hydraulic, and its OBD is 1. Therefore, a cable to hydro transmission switch is required or the other option finding a hydraulic transmission. However, this engine is a viable option in 4th Generation Civic's and should be considered if found. All that's needed is a mount kit offered by Place Racing or Hasport. Usually these engines are rare and very few engine distributors are selling the B17 due to its unusual characteristics. Prices should range between 1800-2400 for this engine. The B18C5 came standard in 1997-2001 Integra Type R's. These engines are the highest performance B-series engine offered in the United States and carry the largest price tag. Compared a B18C1 these engines have higher performance camshafts, a lighter valve train and higher compression. In addition its intake manifold is designed for high-end horsepower, which does sacrifice some low-end torque. All of this amounts to 195 horsepower and 128 lbs of torque. The ITR transmission is the most highly sought after transmission coming standard with LSD and having the best final drive. Also, due to the age of these motors and their capability their price ranges between 4600 and 5200. The H22A is found in Prelude VTEC's and JDM Accord's. This engine comes with 190-220 horsepower and is not considered a great candidate for Civic's and Integra's because of its larger size and weight. Hasport and other companies are making a mount kit for this engine but the geometry of the car is changed dramatically. (The engine and transmission are 85lbs heavier than a GSR motor) However, with the right suspension and some weight reduction the front end can be lightened to the point where the car will be drivable. The benefit's from this engine is its increased low end torque. Unfortunately its very difficult to retain air conditioning and room in the engine bay is at a minimum. Plus, the H-series engines have a poor rod/stroke ratio which translates into less revving capability and less potential with high end horsepower. Overall, this swap is not recommended although it can be done. The D16Y8 is found in 96+ Civic EX's and Del Sol Si's. This engine is very similar to the D16Z6 but has 2 more horsepower and a square combustion chamber for an increase in compression due to the extra queche area. However, its OBD2 instead of OBD1. The "Mini-Me" is a hybrid engine that produces around 135hp. This setup is usually made from a DX(1.5liter) bottom end and D16Z6 or D16Y8 VTEC head. Because of the 1.5-liter's excellent rod-stroke ratio this little beast will make power to 8000rpm. Another interesting characteristic is the increased compression that results from this setup. Overall this engine is great for those who have some experience with engine building and can acquire the VTEC head for a good price. For information on LS/VTEC and CR/VTEC, view our article int he FAQ section. The K20A2 comes standard in the Acura RSX Type-S. This engine has 200 horsepower and 142lbs of torque and can be bolted into the new Civic Si. However, the Type-S has a 6-speed gear box while the Civic Si comes standard with a 5-speed. There are two ways to account for this change, one is to retain the Civic Si's transmission while the second is modifying the Civic Si's shift linkage so the 6 speed transmission can be used. very educational, i read about the mini me swap in honda tuning, good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted March 25, 2006 Author Share Posted March 25, 2006 ECU COMPARISON Molex Plug '88-91 JDM SiR '90-3 US Integra '92-5 JDM SiRII A1 #1 injector #1 injector A2 Ground Ground A3 #2 injector #2 injector A4 Ground Ground VTEC solenoid A5 #3 injector #3 injector A6 Ground Ground A7 #4 injector #4 injector A8 VTEC solenoid none A9 none none A10 Pressure regulator cut-off solenoid valve Pressure regulator cut-off solenoid valve A11 EACV EACV A12 Main relay Main relay A13 Main relay Main relay A14 Main relay Main relay A15 Main relay Main relay A16 Ground Ground A17 none none Secondary butterfly solenoid (IAB) Only for GS-R B18C swaps - JDM B16A does not have IAB A18 Ground Ground - - - A20 (5G wiring only) does not exist does not exist EVAP (red wire) B1 Ignition switch Ignition switch B2 none none B3 A/C clutch relay A/C clutch relay B4 none none B5 VTEC pressure switch none B6 Check engine light Check engine light B7 none none B8 A/C switch A/C swithch B9 none none B10 Crank angle sensor Crank angle sensor B11 Traces to fuse box none B12 Crank angle sensor Crank angle sensor B13 Ignition switch Ignition switch B14 Alternator Alternator B15 Igniter Igniter B16 Speed sensor Speed sensor B17 Igniter Igniter B18 none none B19 Knock sensor P/S oil pressure switch B20 Ignition timing adjusting connector Ignition timing adjusting connector C1 Cylinder sensor Cylinder sensor C2 Cylinder sensor Cylinder sensor C3 TDC TDC C4 TDC TDC C5 Intake air temperature sensor (TA) Intake air temperature sensor (TA) C6 TW sensor TW sensor C7 Throttle angle sensor (T/A) Throttle angle sensor (T/A) C8 O2 sensor none C9 P/S oil pressure switch PA sensor C10 Brake switch Brake switch C11 MAP sensor MAP sensor C12 Ignition timing adjusting connector Ignition timing adjusting connector C13 T/A T/A C14 MAP sensor MAP sensor C15 MAP sensor MAP sensor C16 O2 sensor O2 sensor - - - D3 (5G wiring only) does not exist does not exist Knock sensor D6 (5G wiring only) does not exist does not exist VTEC pressure Furthermore regarding '92+ swaps here are a couple tidbits you might not have known: The 1992 Civic appears to be the only year where all models (CX, DX, Si, etc) had VTEC already wired into the harness. You lucky people don't have to do anything! For all others ('93+) you have to wire the VTEC solenoid, oil pressure switch, the ground for VTEC, knock sensor and the seconday butterfly solenoid (IAB). In addition if SMOG is a concern then you do have to reqire the EVAP purge solenoid. For EK swaps I believe that the 98s or 99s have gotten rid of the knock sensor - something which needs to be verified... ________________________________________________________________________________ ____-Mounts EG + EK I will be brief as you practically have nothing to do save wiring - so skip ahead, ok? EKs have to swap the rear engine/tranny mount for the one off of the '99+ Civic Si - that's it - go to the Wiring section. EF Get the mounts done first, and make sure you do it right! This is by far the most important aspect of the B16A installation as it is directly related to the future lifespan of your new axles. If you are installing a bolt-in kit then the procedure is again self explanatory - just follow the instructions supplied from the manufacturer. For those of you (as I did) who are going the weld-in mount kit way and doing it yourself, begin by moving your OEM Civic/CR-X rear mount over to the second set of holes located next to it on the rear cross-member. Too obscure for you?.... Ok once the original engine is removed look at the rear cross-member and unbolt your (doughnut shaped) rear engine/tranny mount. Now see how there is a second set of holes on the cross-member, located immediately to the right (ie towards driver side) of the ones you were just using? In the US these mount holes are used for AT trannies, it turns out that if you simply move your rear mount to these holes then it is perfectly setup for the B16A. From there, you could bolt up your engine/tranny while still supported by a 'cherry picker' and see just exactly where the new mounts ought to be welded - make sense? Yes? Good! What should EFs do about throttle and clutch cables? I modified my DX ones to fit with brackets and such, but I have been told that the '90-1 Integra ones are a good bet if you want to buy new ones. For all the radiator and various heater hoses you can again modify your existing items or use as above '90-1 Integra ones. Throw on the axles and shift linkage. Do your header and downpipe, etc. etc. Now how about some wiring? You'll see it really isn't that hard. Let's start with EFs as that is where the most work exists. Dual point injection (DX) vs Multi-point injection (Si, HF) for '89-91s DXs have only two injectors located immediately after the throttle body. On the other hand Si's, HF's, and of course the SiR's have multi-point - or 4 injectors plumbed into the intake manifold just before the cylinder head. The first step for DX owners (like me) is thus to rewire the PGM-FI electrical system to multi-point. Once that is done everybody can simply concern themselves with adding the VTEC related wires and grounds as described below. Everybody clear on this? If you have an HF or Si and all the rest of the wiring checks out then all you have to add are the wires for the oil pressure switch, VTEC solenoid, knock sensor, and the second O2 sensor (hint it's the green plug that's dangling in the attached picture!) - So Skip Ahead to the pinouts for these 4! If you have an HF/Si you do not need to concern yourself with anything else listed in the table below! DX owners need to follow ALL the instructions listed here: EF DX You have two major choices on how to handle this swap as far as wiring is concerned. EIther you go to the junkyard and purchase the engine wiring loom from a '90-1 Civic/CR-X Si and thus "pretend" your car is an Si which means you only have to worry about the 4 additional wires listed just above. Or you rewire the DX harness. In addition to 2 extra injectors (hopefully you get all 4 with your new B16A engine) you need to go out and get a Si injecotr resistor. What does it look like/Where does it go? It's the aluminum box with the integrated heat sink that sits on the driver side of the engine bay immedaitely behind the shock tower on MPFI Honda's like the 90-1 Si's for example. So if fabrication is your thing then you DX owners now need to add three additional harnesses using shielded wiring. Get yourself several feet of shielded two and four conductor wires - this is easily available at home improvement and electronic stores (Home Depot, Fry's Electronics, etc.) Please Note that below I speak of three new harnesses - this is simply to clear things up for people - to make it easier to understand. If you don't want to make three separate harnesses then that's fine too. Whichever way you do it is fine - just take some precautions like shielded wiring and make sure all wires go where they ought to go. For DX'ers, the first harness will be for injectors 2 and 4. You'll need to use an appropriate OEM Honda 2pin connector for one end of each wire. For DX'ers, the second harness has 2 wires. Both are for crank angle sensor. For ALL, the third harness has 4 wires (so use a four conductor). One for oil pressure switch, one for VTEC solenoid, one for the knock sensor, and one for the second O2 sensor. Moving right along, you will now make all the necessary changes at the ECU. I am indebted to Kelley Grusin of Hondahaven for all this information when I completed my swap in the summer of '97. And for those to whom 'ECU end of harness' (see below) isn't perfectly clear, by that I mean that were you to cut one wire going to one of the ECU plugs then the wire which remains sticking out of the ECU IS the 'ECU' end, as opposed to the end that is left dangling from the harness end. Make sense? A is the 18pin white plug, B is the 20pin black plug, C is the 16pin black plug. For those of you who noticed that the table has changed I simply deleted out all the wires which do not change in the conversion process. Why? I have seen these sheets printed out in a number of places and I want to save on paper - so if it doesn't change then the pinout does not appear below. (pinouts are read left to right, odd numbers on top row, even on bottom) Wire Action A3 cut, connect ecu end to Injector #2 wire on First harness A6 cut, use harness end later A7 cut, connect ECU end to Injector #4 wire on First harness A8 add, connect to VTEC solenoid wire on Third harness A10 cut, connect ECU end to harness end from A6 B2 cut, we will use harness end later B4 cut B5 cut, connect ECU end to oil pressure switch wire on Third harness B7 cut B10 add, we will connect to this later B11 cut B12 add, we will connect to this later B19 add, connect to knock sensor wire on Third harness B20 leave alone C1 cut, connect harness end to ECU end of B10 above, connect ECU end to crank angle sensor wire on Second harness C2 cut, connect harness end to ECU end of B12 above, connect ECU end to crank angle sensor wire on Second harness C8 cut, connect to second O2 sensor on Third harness C9 cut Now you say you want to compare your non-VTEC '88-91 wiring with the '89-91 SiR's from Japan and Euope? Although I didn't copy everything over the EE8/EE9 are only different from the EF8/9 at B19 and C9. Well this ought to answer ALL your questions I think. Pinout '88 HF/Si USA '90-1 DX (Std.) USA '90-1 HF/Si USA '89-91 EF8/9 SiR JDM '90-1 EE8/9 1.6i-VT EUROPE A1 No.1 INJ Aux INJ w/A3 No.1 INJ No.1 INJ A2 GRD w/A4 to Main Relay GRD w/A4 to Main Relay GRD w/A4 to Main Relay GRD w/A4 to Main Relay A3 No.2 INJ Aux INJ w/A1 No.2 INJ No.2 INJ A4 GRD w/A2 to Main Relay GRD w/A2 to Main Relay GRD w/A2 to Main Relay GRD w/A2 to Main Relay A5 No.3 INJ Main INJ w/A7 No.3 INJ No.3 INJ A6 Purge Cut-Off Solenoid Valve Purge Cut-Off Solenoid Valve Purge Cut-Off Solenoid Valve (HF Only) Purge Cut-Off Solenoid Valve A7 No.4 INJ Main INJ w/A5 No.4 INJ No.4 INJ A8 Lock-up Control Solenoid Valve Lock-up Control Solenoid Valve Lock-up Control Solenoid Valve Spool (VTEC) Solenoid Valve A9 - - - - A10 - EGR Valve (CA A/T Only) EGR Valve (HF Only) Pressure Regulator Cut-Off Solenoid Valve A11 EACV w/A17 EACV w/A17 EACV w/A17 EACV A12 Main Relay w/A14 Main Relay w/A14 Main Relay w/A14 Main Relay w/A14 A13 Main Relay w/A15 Main Relay w/A15 Main Relay w/A15 Main Relay w/A15 A14 Main Relay w/A12 Main Relay w/A12 Main Relay w/A12 Main Relay w/A12 A15 Main Relay w/A13 Main Relay w/A13 Main Relay w/A13 Main Relay w/A13 A16 GRD w/A18 GRD w/A18 GRD w/A18 GRD w/A18 A17 EACV w/A11 - - - A18 GRD w/A16 GRD w/A16 GRD w/A16 GRD w/A16 B1 Hazard Fuse w/Brake Switch Hazard Fuse w/Brake Switch - Hazard Fuse w/Brake Switch B2 Tandem Valve Control Solenoid Valve Tandem Valve Control Solenoid Valve - - B3 A/C Clutch Relay A/C Clutch Relay Fast Idle Valve A/C Clutch Relay B4 Radiator Fan Relay Radiator Fan Relay Radiator Fan Relay - B5 Alternator Alternator Alternator Oil Pressure Switch B6 Check Engine Light Check Engine Light Check Engine Light Check Engine Light(10A) B7 Shift Position Sensor (A/T Only) Shift Position Sensor (A/T Only) A/C Switch w/B8 - B8 A/C Switch A/C Switch A/C Switch w/B7 A/C Switch B9 - - - Brake Switch B10 - - Crank Angle Sensor Crank Angle Sensor B11 Shift Position Sensor (AT Only) Shift Position Sensor (AT Only) Clutch Switch (HF Only) Rear Defogger Switch B12 - - Crank Angle Sensor Crank Angle Sensor B13 No.2 Fuse (10A) No.2 Fuse (10A) No.2 Fuse (10A) No.2 Fuse (10A) B14 Alternator Alternator Alternator Alternator B15 Igniter Unit w/B17 Igniter Unit w/B17 Igniter Unit w/B17 Igniter Unit w/B17 B16 Speed Sensor Speed Sensor Speed Sensor Speed Sensor (Electrical) B17 Igniter Unit w/B15 Igniter Unit w/B15 Igniter Unit w/B15 Igniter Unit w/B15 B18 - - - - B19 ELD ELD ELD Knock Sensor - B20 Ign. Timing Adj. Connector Ign. Timing Adj. Connector Ign. Timing Adj. Connector Ign. Timing Adj. Connector C1 Crank Angle Sensor Crank Angle Sensor Cylinder Position Sensor Cylinder Position Sensor C2 Crank Angle Sensor Crank Angle Sensor Cylinder Position Sensor Cylinder Position Sensor C3 TDC Sensor TDC Sensor TDC Sensor TDC Sensor C4 TDC Sensor TDC Sensor TDC Sensor TDC Sensor C5 TA Sensor TA Sensor TA Sensor TA Sensor C6 TW Sensor TW Sensor TW Sensor TW Sensor C7 Throttle Angle Sensor Throttle Angle Sensor Throttle Angle Sensor Throttle Angle Sensor C8 - EGR Valve Lift Sensor (CA A/T Only) - O2 Sensor B C9 PA Sensor PA Sensor PA Sensor P/S oil switch - C10 Brake Switch Brake Switch Brake and Reverse Light Switch (HF Only) Brake Switch C11 MAP Sensor MAP Sensor MAP Sensor MAP Sensor C12 PA Sensor PA Sensor Throttle Angle Sensor Throttle Angle Sensor C13 PA Sensor PA Sensor Throttle Angle Sensor Throttle Angle Sensor C14 MAP Sensor MAP Sensor MAP Sensor MAP Sensor C15 MAP Sensor MAP Sensor MAP Sensor MAP Sensor C16 O2 Sensor A O2 Sensor A O2 Sensor A O2 Sensor A IF for whatever reason you were to need to rewire your EF distributor plugs here is how they are set-up. Look at the back of the plug, if you have it oriented right then you have the tab at the top, then one row of two wires, one row of four wires (with the leftmost one empty), and one row of two wires. Reading left to right and top to bottom you get: WHT/BLU (C4 at ecu) TDC sensor ORA/BLU (C3) TDC sensor Empty WHT/RED (B12) Crank angle sensor ORA (B10) Crank angle sensor BLU/GRN (C1) Cyl sensor BLU/WHT (C2) Cyl sensor ________________________________________________________________________________ if you need any thing more just ask, i have a full cd full of swap info, and turbo installation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 Non-recommended Swaps Not all motors work well, or at all, in every chassis. In addition, some DO fit and work, but are still not recommended. Most of this comes down to OBD again. If you haven't read our article on OBD yet, do so before reading the rest of this article. 4th gen * D16Y7/8 * B16A2 (USDM) * B16A3 * 96+ B18C * 96+ B18B * B18C5 * any H-series * any C-series motor We don't recommend these motors for several reasons. The H-series will require much chassis denting, and while that may be cool to do on a race car, it makes your bay look like crap and can lead to a weaker engine bay. In addition, you wont have room for A/C or power steering if those options are required by you.The other motors are OBD-2, requiring a much greater challenge in wiring. The B- and D-series OBD-2 motors can be installed into the chassis fairly easily with a mount kit, but as stated above, the wiring is an absolute nightmare. 5th gen * B16A SiR * B17A * B18A * ZC/D16A6/8/9 * any C-series motor We don't recommend these motors for several reasons as well. These motors are OBD-0, making it a hard swap into a car wired for OBD-1. It is easier to go backwards (as in, taking a 5th gen motor into a 4th gen chassis) than forwards. Remember, its all about backwards compatibility, not forwards. While we haven't listed the H-series motors as a non-recommended swap, we would like to say a few words about it. An H-series motor is generally 60-80 lbs heavier than a B-series motor. This adds to the already poor F/R weight distribution of Civics/Integra's. While it can be solved with a set of stiffer springs and tighter shocks up front, it is still not a good choice for an AutoX or road course car. For drag, it excels. It's heavier, putting more weight on the front wheels to help with traction. In addition to the weight factor, the chassis will need to be modified a little bit to fit it. Some things on the fire wall will need to be moved (such as brake master cylinder) off the wall. The drivers side quarter panel will also need to be dented in a little bit so the crank pulley doesn't rub. 6th gen * B16A SiR * B16A3 * B17A * B18A * 94-95 B18C * 94-95 B18B * ZC/D16A6/8/9 * any C-series motor The reasons for these motors is similar to the 5th gen's, only now we include OBD-1 in the list. When you own an OBD-2 chassis, the easiest swaps are OBD-2 motors. The same general principles apply for the H-series motors as listed in the 5th gen's explanation. 7th gen * any B-series motor * any D-series motor <2001 * any C-series motor * any H-series motor * any F-series motor The new Civic's share the i-VTEC and mounting patterns of the RSX. Neither chassis will accept an older motor. The standard D17 in the Civic or the K20 in the Civic Si/RSX are the new platforms of which Honda hybrid making will be in the future. There are now K-series mount kits for both the EG/DC2 and the EK chassis. see: http://www.hybrid-racing.com/ http://www.k20a.org/ http://hasport.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=38 Hasport's EG Kseries mounts are to be released soon. will update when they are out of post-production HAsport and the other companies are also offering wire harnesses to make the swaps even easier, and HAsport has special axels for the k-seires swaps as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 This might help when wiring up distributors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaoz Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 just a very noob question... I have a 1991 crx si and I am planning to swap a K20 or B18 engine on it... is this possible? or It will not pass the smog referee here in California. I've been searching google for the RULES of Engine Swap in California and I cant seem to find it. Any help please. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdmEGhatch Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 okay a quick question which might have already been asked but i dont have time to read through everything right now. what needed mods have to be done to swao a b18 series into a 93 accord> i.e. what mounts, what linkage, axels, ect. ive done other swaps but they have always been civic to civic swaps or integra to civic. never really delt with an accord. also the kid wants to do a auto to manual swap so what would be the best way to go about that? what master cylinder, pedal essmbly, ect. any info is greatly appreciated! arigato gozaimasu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EH6TunerDaniel Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Why? H22 is cheaper, easier, and more powerful... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lceah Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 ^I agree! I would go with H into an Accord... arigato gozaimasu yay! Japanese hehe coool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 just a very noob question... I have a 1991 crx si and I am planning to swap a K20 or B18 engine on it... is this possible? or It will not pass the smog referee here in California. I've been searching google for the RULES of Engine Swap in California and I cant seem to find it. Any help please. Thanks B17A1 will pass emissions no problem.. and the B17A1 is a DA model Integra GSR engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdmEGhatch Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 yeah i was researching it and i found full swaps for like 2gs any thing specific needed thought? the kid wants a full quote before he agrees to it. so right now is the find out all the nessacary crap and hopefully get the ball rolling time. thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdmEGhatch Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 also he wants to run boost so what would be the best set up for an h? ive only ever delt with d and b kits. so prices or sites would be amazing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryant_M Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 is it possible to swap a B20 into a 1994 accord? and if so what is required to make it happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 is it possible to swap a B20 into a 1994 accord? and if so what is required to make it happen? sure, custom mounts, and custom shift linkage. and a very much in-depth re-wire for the wiring harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i heart my ek9 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 great info!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openking89 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 (edited) ♥ ♥ thats something new to me, good idea though... have you thought of using colorbooks? There are some amazing pages in them just waiting to be scrapped..♥ ♥ Thanks Lab Sterilizers | Baltimore Cooling | Raleigh Painting Company Edited September 22, 2009 by openking89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedDemon Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 ♥ ♥ thats something new to me, good idea though... have you thought of using colorbooks? There are some amazing pages in them just waiting to be scrapped..♥ ♥ Thanks color books are for noobs. just like you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83civic Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 Looking for info to do a swap into a 83 Civic 4door 1300 1.3L twin carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 that's nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l.s.k._atx Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I need a swap that would fit in my eg hatch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Jackson Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 I like your forum, I think it says something that is very reasonable. I will always look to this forum, hoping each time to see some different things. cheap polo shirt Men's Ralph Lauren Shorts Women's RL Polo Shirts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capecove Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 i want to do a h22 swap into my eg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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