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Cuts out at 3500.....revisited


RustySocket

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Hi all....

 

Thanks for all the suggestions on my last thread. I have a '94 Si Hatch. Was getting an intermittant bogging problem at 3500 but not setting any codes. Replaced cap, plugs, wires and rotor and problem went away for about a week.... or at least I thought it had.

 

Now the car runs fine until it warms up. At high rpm's everything it fine but if I let it idle for any time at all I get a CEL with code 4 (Crank position Sensor) and the cutting out at 3500 returns. I can quickly turn the key on and off while still rolling and the car runs fine until it drops down to idle then the bogging and the CEL starts again. This trouble is repeatable and now happens every time the car is warm.

 

This does not happen when the car is cold.... it only happens after warming up.

 

I realize I probably need to replace the distributor to fix the Crank Sensor issue. I just wondered if there are any other sensors or conditions that would contribute to the code 4. Anyone have experience with DistributorKing? They seem to have a decent price on the whole dizzy.

 

Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

Shouldn't you start by replacing the crank sensor? The crank sensor gives out AC signwave and also works on varying resistances changing by heat so it may work fine when it is cold but when it warms up it may change and cause it to go wrong as it would give out the wrong resistance and so the ECU wouldn't know how fast the engine was turning and so won't be able to work out the air/fuel ratio and so it'll limit the engine.

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  • 9 months later...
Hi all....

 

Thanks for all the suggestions on my last thread. I have a '94 Si Hatch. Was getting an intermittant bogging problem at 3500 but not setting any codes. Replaced cap, plugs, wires and rotor and problem went away for about a week.... or at least I thought it had.

 

Now the car runs fine until it warms up. At high rpm's everything it fine but if I let it idle for any time at all I get a CEL with code 4 (Crank position Sensor) and the cutting out at 3500 returns. I can quickly turn the key on and off while still rolling and the car runs fine until it drops down to idle then the bogging and the CEL starts again. This trouble is repeatable and now happens every time the car is warm.

 

This does not happen when the car is cold.... it only happens after warming up.

 

I realize I probably need to replace the distributor to fix the Crank Sensor issue. I just wondered if there are any other sensors or conditions that would contribute to the code 4. Anyone have experience with DistributorKing? They seem to have a decent price on the whole dizzy.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Hey man i have the same problem ur having but i read urs u posted it back last year but i was wondering if u ever fixed it and what the result of it was please post something on my post or leave something on ur thanks

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