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JDM Astar

Member
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JDM Astar

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    City of Industry, CA
  • Interests
    We are automotive enthusiasts and have a niche for builds and car modding. We enjoy attending local trade show events and popular events like SEMA. We are all about changing the world in how drivers operate there motor vehicles at night.
  • Real Name
    Jose Cornejo
  • Relationship
    Married

Vehicle Information

  • Vehicles
    2015 Honda Accord
  • Modifications
    Vehicle consists of lighting modifications only. All exterior and interior lights have been replaced with JDM ASTAR automotive LED bulbs. Currently running our 8th Gen headlights for front headlamps and fogs.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.jdmastar.com
  • Facebook
    https://www.facebook.com/jdmastarlighting/
  • YouTube
    JDM Astar
  1. Jimmy, We came across your post and wanted to shed some light on what lighting solutions you can consider. Here are a few things you can try: 1) Keep your HIDs- Replace only the HID bulb if the ballast is still good. If the ballast is out, replace the ballast or consider going for a higher end HID kit. 2) Go old school- As cmgogo mentioned, the ballast is usually plugged in to the headlight sockets/harness. Remove it and just buy yourself some H4/9005 55W/65W 12V DC Halogen bulbs. The connectors should still be the same and would get rid of all the wiring that HID kits use. The H4 halogen bulbs should plug right in and the headlamp housing already uses an H4 mount that fit the H4 HID so the Halogen bulb should go in with no problem. 3) Use an aftermarket LED- Its the same concept as going old school where you would remove the HID and ballast and plug the LED replacement directly to the headlight socket/harness. No wiring is involved on most aftermarket LED type bulbs. The LED headlight will usually adapt to the same housing just as long the bulb size it takes is the same which in this case should be an H4/9003 LED bulb size. 4) Using an aftermarket LED headlight housing- These may require some wiring depending on the quality. Most, however, should plug right into the original sockets, or you will simply need to cut off the cars factory socket/harness and just wire in the ones that the housing includes. Either option would work and judging from your post, it does not appear that you will need to do any wiring unless you opt for a housing with an LED circuit board as the main low beam headlight. Hoping this helps!
  2. We been in the car lighting industry for over 10 years. The key differences from those cheap HIDs and quality ones are the following: (Based off our own personal experiences, and testing) 1) Brand. Higher end brands or companys that have been around for some time tend to have higher costs as the parts are trusted by many and quality is usually superb. Most tenured brands also offer wholesale services so retail costs must be marked up in order to provide a margin for the dealer that is buying. This is a tactic that most established brands use to grow there business. The HIDs that you buy from these sources are usually the best to go far as they tend to be what is advertised and usually easier to install. 2) Quality. HIDs need a good ballast. With the complexity involved in a ballast, using a $20 kit may not be the best idea. Short cuts are taken on the circuit of the ballast that lead to a world of headaches for short circuits(damages to car harness/wiring), excess of power(causes HID bulb to fail), or temperature spikes that lead to a premature failure(ballast burns out) . If your car has a lot of labor involved, do not opt for cheap HID kits. You want to assume you will need to replace a cheap $20 at least 1 time in a year so if its intensive then this can be an inconvenience. 3) The labor required to install. Low end HIDs tend to lack proper wiring insulation, proper weather seals, and additional components/harnesses/modules needed to bypass a vehicle related system/circuit. The budget friendly lamps may require a little TLC from the installer to cover all aspects of the install in order to ensure the bulb operates correctly for long term use as well as determine whether or not an additional part is required to bypass any codes or problems triggered by the vehicle. Hoping this helps!
  3. Very clean! We've been debating about getting in this part of the market for car lighting instead of just having LED bulbs. Was there any wiring involved to convert the housing? Would assume so to power up the halos. Just curious if this is something anybody is able to do....
  4. Don't have any experience with tinting exterior tail lights but can say that you should go for the most transparent option. The tint can hinder visibility of your tail lamps which may compromise drive safety. We get reports about this on a daily basis. If you do opt to tint them, make sure you put a bright enough bulb to help penetrate through it. As for using plasti-dip, never seen this before so hoping somebody chimes in to hear about there experience. Sounds very interesting....
  5. We specialize on aftermarket LED car lighting. We have been in the industry for over 10 years and this name does not sound familiar at all. May be a new brand, or possibly a start up? Either way, be cautious with unknown brands as its difficult to know what you are buying and whether or not it works well for both the vehicle and longevity. For light bars, always look for diecast aluminum, quality wire insulation, and proper weather seals where any connections are made. Aside from this, take into consideration the light sources. The more light sources on the light bar, the less power consumed by each diode and therefore outputs less heat. This translates to longer operating times and life expectancy. The light sources should also be quality light sources. Most budget-friendly light bars take short cuts and tend to run older model LED chips such as 5050 chips where the heat threshold is minimal. If you ever need guidance, you can always reach out to us directly for any help. 😁
  6. We work with many Japanese model cars. Most Honda's will not have the necessary wiring required to add fog lamps if the fogs are not included with the vehicle. Unfortunately, you will need do to some wiring on your end. Your best bet is to acquire an aftermarket fog housing that either includes an LED circuit board or a traditional filament bulb. You can also opt for an economical fog housing and just invest on putting a brighter bulb in there.
  7. Been there before! Watch this video from Car Care Kiosk. We always use this source to help us identify certain steps needed when attempting to remove a factory bulb to replace with an LED. Its a good source to save for your favorites as they have other tutorials on there lineup of videos. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Honda_Accord_EX-L_2.4L_4_Cyl._Sedan/lights/center_brake_light
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