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Low&Slow

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  1. Low&Slow

    7th Gen Accord Motor Swap

    I have a 2003 Honda Accord 2 dr Coupe w/ the stock motor and auto trans. (im assuming its a j30a4). Anyway, I wanted to know what the easiest swap would be for better gains in power and speed. I read some forums where people are saying that a j32a2 isn't a direct swap in unless you want to lose ac, abs, and traction control. So, my question is, would it be better to swap a j32a2, j32a3, or any suggestions? I don't want to lose AC ( as I literally just fixed it at the beginning of November after so long of so many problems). I also live in the hottest and driest place on Earth.
  2. Low&Slow

    A/C HELP!!! URGENT.

    Update: got the system recharged and the AC is cooling freakishly cold and I live in the desert where the temperature gets to 123F sometimes. I had an issues before changing the part. The ac when at idle would only blow around 70-75f and now its a little under 60 and idle. I learned a crap ton of on my own and I want to thank CL98267k for the advice. Change all your AC parts people. It saves you the hassle later on in life.
  3. Low&Slow

    A/C HELP!!! URGENT.

    Hey! I know im a little late on this, but I finally decided to get up and do the job after like 2 weeks of not having the proper tools. I didn't have any problems doing the job until I had to put the evap cover back on. The expansion valve was a little different than the one that comes with the 7th gen accord so I had to cut some plastic off inside the evap cover with some wire cutters. Fairly simple.. I would recommend that anyone doing this job, should get the oem part as I bought an aem part. im getting the system recharged today so we'll see how it turns out!
  4. Low&Slow

    A/C HELP!!! URGENT.

    I am using a new expansion valve, I read some service manuals and it seems like I just have to unplug the bolt from the low and high pressure that connects to the firewall into the expansion valve which connects to the evap core. SO I guess these are my steps. 1. start removing the glove box and its other parts, once all the sensors and everything is unplugged, take off the blower motor chassis with the fan inside of it. 2. start unplugging my transistor sensor and other sensors on the evap chassis. 3. unscrew the 8-9 bolts on the evap chassis. 4. unscrew the bolt from the outside on the lines. 5. pull out the cover to the evap chassis, then pull out the evap and expansion valve. replace rings on the lines, and on the evap core itself. yes I am going to use some new insulation on the new expansion valve. not too sure what kind of padding or foam I should use or what kind of glue or adhesive. 6. I am going to refill the evap with 45ml pag oil which is equal to 1.5 ounces of pag oil.
  5. Low&Slow

    A/C HELP!!! URGENT.

    How would I know what is lost? Say I drain the ac system out of the valve stem by unscrewing or pressing it to let out whatever is left? I believe its marking at 0 right now with a standard Walmart gauge reader that comes with r134a. I would not be touching the compressor or the lines to change the evap core. to my understanding it just needs to be unbolted from the expansion valve on the firewall after it is completely empty. Yes I am going to change the o rings of course. that would be dumb of me to not. Also, thank you so much for responding.
  6. Low&Slow

    A/C HELP!!! URGENT.

    Alright, so I have a 2003 Honda Accord v6 EX. I recently had been told me evaporator core has been leaking out the fluid. Now my AC just blows hot. So I wanted to swap it out and I ordered the proper part off of RockAuto.com. Note: The compressor, drier/accumulator, and condenser are all new. They have already been swapped out, filled. Now my question is, is it possible that the pag oil leaked from the evap core from all of the other main parts as well? I am planning on changing it but I am a noob when it comes to AC work. I looked online and the correct amount is 5.50 ounces of PAG OIL. Freeon is 19. Yes I bought the expansion valve too. Note: Yes I have thought about paying a professional, but whats the point of paying a professional when you can DIY? You won't learn jack sh*t if you pay someone else to do your dirty work, right? Also, I live in the desert where its dry and hot all day long. 123F to be exact. Say I drain the oil via the valve stem from the low pressure side before changing any parts, should I refill all of the 5.50 ounces in the evap or would I have to put PAG oil in every main part? I was told I only have to put one ounce in and that I would be fine, but I don't trust this dudes work since he told me he changed my expansion valve when he changed the other parts i.e. the compressor and condenser. Any help is appreciated. I tried to make this as short as possible.
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