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About CL98267K

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    New Member

Vehicle Information

  • Vehicles
    1998 Acura CL 2.3 Base
  • Modifications
    Conventional Brake swap, Removed cruise control, SRS, Cheapo Cold air. Daily driver. going for 300K

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  1. CL98267K


    Sounds good. Let us know how it turns out!
  2. CL98267K


    Are you re-using your old expansion valve? If so I'd also replace the foam tape around the capillary tube just for good measure. I'll try to check in daily if I can.
  3. CL98267K


    Normally I measure the amount of oil that comes out of the compressor and subtract it from the total fluid capacity of the system as a whole. Since you're not removing your compressor I wouldn't worry about it. In your case just refill the refrigerant after you replace the O-rings. I just did the same thing on my Acura and I had condensation on the outside of the windows in like 4 minutes.
  4. CL98267K


    I would only add back what is lost if you recover 35cc's of oil then add back 35cc's into the system. Also highly recommend while system is open to change O-rings at the compressor (if you haven't already) as this is a very common location for leaks. Also when pressure is below 265 kPa (38 PSI) due to loss of refrigerant OR above 1667 kPa (242 PSI) due to blockage your dual pressure switch will open the circuit to the A/C control unit to protect the compressor.
  5. CL98267K

    Civic troubles

    If the the learn procedure doesn't help, you may want to look into an issues my wife had on her 2003 civic. At about 188,000 miles the catalyst inside of the catalytic converter crumbled and since it's oriented in a vertical manner the particles that fell down clogged up the "honeycomb" and kicked an O2 code. It lost power and stalled out for the first time since we owned it. That's when I knew something was up. I replaced the O2 sensor and it still stalled. Come to find out that the manifold/cat is one piece and Honda wanted $725.00+ for a replacement so we found one on ebay for $300.
  6. CL98267K

    Civic troubles

    Is it throwing any codes? Almost sounds like the pcm can't read the idle speed did you perform the "idle learn procedure" after disconnecting the battery? If the battery was dead or disconnected the pcm "forgets" where the fuel/air mix is set so you have to perform the "idle learn procedure." It's been a while since we sold my wife's2003 civic but the principle is the same. try this
  7. CL98267K


    A quick search turns up this data on that odb-II code. Although my experience as a tow truck driver tells me you may want to look into an often over looked problem that may also cause this type of failure. Look under the hood at where the selector cable goes from the firewall to the transmission itself and look at where it "snaps" onto the selector "butterfly" of the transmission and see if it's broke /loose or disconnected. It's not a guaranteed fix but if you just need a new cable it's a lot cheaper than a pcm/tcm replacement. If you were on the highway and the selector was not fully engaging into D4 this could cause the code by throwing the driver demanded rpms out of sync with the wheel speed output of the tires because the cable may have only been in D3 physically. Since these systems are monitored electronically there's no way for the system to see a stretched/broken selector cable and thus the PCM throws a code in order to get attention drawn to this area of the drivetrain. Hope this helps.
  8. CL98267K

    When to Replace Timing Belt?

    If you are the original owner then you know how the vehicle has been/is driven daily whether or not it is driven hard or pampered. I recommend between 80,000/100,000 myself but keep in mind that this is a preventative measure that skipping over can cost you far more than $950 if it breaks on you while driving. Regardless of which maintenance schedule you fall under it should be about the same mileage for this service which does include the water pump since it is driven by the timing belt. If the price tag is to high you can order the parts and have them replaced elsewhere at a lower cost but, if you have a warranty through Honda check to see if this would void it before going this route. Remember the dealership will always try to up-sale you on parts/service since this is where most dealerships actually make their biggest profits. In closing if the car has had a rough life so far then preventive maintenance is your friend, but if you've pampered it then you might want to put if off long enough to budget for the repair but it's just a rubber belt and it won't last forever. The most I've gotten out of a factory timing belt was 178,000K but that was an extreme case for me as I run 'em hard.
  9. This is caused by the infamous main relay which runs the fuel pump via the ignition switch. The solder connections get hot and become separated and reconnect (contracting as they cool) after current is shut off. Two options: A: replace (if ebay isn't your thing search "PGM-FI RELAY" ) or B: remove and manually re-solder the four connections
  10. CL98267K

    93 Accord wiper problem

    The wiper motor goes to ground #301 via solid black wire in the main harness through connector #314 and comes from the under dash fuse #6 (left kick panel) via green wire w/BLK stripe should be able to trace it back from there. hope this helps
  11. Check to see if glovebox light is on. if so make sure latch that holds the GB shut is tight (two screws) if those are tight check switch, if switch is working and not loose pull bulb and see if battery holds charge. If GB is not the problem then check door jamb switches (that turn on dome/courtesy lights) if door jamb switches are ok then check the cargo light in the trunk same as GB. if all of abobe is okay check to see if the garage door opener is transmitting (button stuck) if so equipped. Hope this helps

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