Jump to content

JDM Reverend

Member
  • Content Count

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

4 Followers

About JDM Reverend

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Phoenix
  • Interests
    Honda's
  • Real Name
    Sean
  • Relationship
    Married

Vehicle Information

  • Vehicles
    1992 del Sol SiR
  • Modifications
    It's JDM yO!

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.jdmreverend.com
  • Facebook
    jdmreverend
  • MySpace
    jdmreverend
  • Twitter
    jdmreverend
  • YouTube
    jdmreverend
  • XBox Gamertag
    reverendjdm
  1. I'm parting out one too but no one cares apparently
  2. Sup! Been busy with the sol... trying to get it finally finished.
  3. JDM Reverend

    Hey hey!

    So I haven't been on here in awhile... sup?
  4. Parting out a 1994 del Sol VTEC Model. You could message me on here, but easiest way is just text or call me directly at 623.986.2599 I am paypal verified and accept all major credit or debit cards. ;) Located in Arizona, willing to ship anywhere, even international. Also, for the ballers out there. Genuine JDM Mugen Spoiler up for grabs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-MUGEN-DEL-SOL-EG2-CR-X-PRO-3-SPOILER-WING-SiR-JDM-VTEC-DELSOL-RARE-/150678636055?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2315258617
  5. Thanks. Again. Everything resolved.
  6. This is totally false. He has not made any attempt to contact me. Ever. Packages are mailed in different boxes because of weight and shape. I have contacted him and resolved the issues to the best of my ability. I am not a scammer.
  7. DO NOT BUY FROM HIM, SCAMMER

  8. Im back. Sorry I was away for awhile with work and stuff but I still have a few parts lying around.
  9. I know you said you pulled the knob off and you dont think it's that but the knob can be deceiving when its not working. It's simple. If your not hearing the clicking noise and the knob is freely moving about, guess what. You've cracked your knob. It's not grabbing the plastic inside the a/c unit. Simply pull the knob out by pulling it straight out and inspect it. If you have cracks on it, just replace it. A simple way to see if it IS just the knob is to get some pliers and turn the plastic piece inside manually and check to see if the fans come on, and if they come on no problem, then your entire issue is with the knob. Common problem with del sols. If you need a blower motor, I have one for sale. Replacing it is very easy since you can do it from under the dashboard and it just unscrews from the bottom. If you need a new a/c dash unit, I have one for sale. Replacing that is alittle more involved. Take your center console and radio console out, take the radio out, and theres a small screw that holds the a/c dash unit in place. Unscrew that, and disconnect the unit from the harness, and then disconnect the cable which goes from the a/c unit to your blower motor. It's the cable that switches you from hot to cold, it basicly just opens up the valve to allow hot coolant to pass through the blower motor. Then just pull it straight out.
  10. There's only one way to do it, and nothing involves cutting into the frame or cutting off the rear end or so forth. Anyone that does that is fracking dumb. Yes you'll need a rear clip, which includes the transtop ecu. However, most people don't realize you also need the front clip as well to get all the wiring from the car. Easiest thing to do is to find not a rhd clip but an edm lhd clip instead, that way moving over the wiring assembly isn't a bitch. lol. There are two brackets that are on the back wall of the trunk that the transtop bolts on too. Removing them is as easy as using a spot weld cutter, and moving them over is as simple as rewelding. Then you just need to cut two holes in the floor of the trunk, not cutting into the frame or anything. And bam your done as far as that goes.
  11. You know. The foam pretty much wraps around the bracket and when you tie it up at the bottom it pretty much binds it all together.
  12. Del Sols are getting harder and harder to find. Finding ones that are in good condition is even harder. The point is, there are things that go wrong with our cars and one of them is the bolster on the driverside seat that always seems to wear out, tear, and break apart. It looks so unsightly, and the solution is as simple as replacing the seat right? Finding just a driverside seat by itself is almost impossible to find for sale, since it's always paired with its mint condition counterpart, the passengerside. However, the passengerside has always been the bastard child of the seat world, not really appreciated, overlooked, and undervalued. I, the Reverend say, No Longer! In a world where we need to be frugal and creative, I am writting this do it yourself, to show you how you can easily replace your busted driverside seat by using passengerside seat material. Sadly, you can find a pair of sol seats that have a busted driverside very very cheap, because the passengerside isn't considered worth anything because theres no real demand for those. Today I picked up some S model seats for $30 because the driverside was torn and material was missing. I removed all the material from the driverside seat and this is what's inside. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00001.JPG   The seat bracket is just a rusted piece of metal that was begging to come out. Now this walkthrough will show you how to remove the good material from a passengerside seat and how to install that into a driverside bracket. Now here's what you'll need to do the material swap (1) Socket Wrench (1) 12 metric socket (1) 17 metric socket (1) Scissors (1) Needle Nose Pliers (1) Xacto Knife (5) Zip Ties First thing you'll want to do is remove the headrest, if you can. It's usually rusted stuck, but sometimes you can get lucky and you can pull it off without a hitch. You'll need to remove two pins that hold it in place. Just pull back the material and use your pliers to pull them out. Once they are removed, just lift the headrest straight up. If it wont budge, don't worry, we will get them out another way later. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00027.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00028.JPG   Now lets remove the upper portion of the seat. Three bolts hold the seat together. Two are connected to the reclining part of the seat rail and the other one just holds the upper part of the seat to the lower part of the seat. It can be removed using your 17 metric socket. The other two bolts can be removed by using your 12 metric but they are harder to get to. On the back of the seat you'll notice two zippers, and the zipper part is tucked under the seat so use your finger and dig em out. Unzip both sides and you'll notice on the bottom that there are five metal rings holding the back part of the seat material together with the front. Just grab your pliers and twist these clockwise and they should just come right off. Pull back the leather material to expose the padding and you'll see that theres already a section of the material cut out already, and thats where those last two bolts are so go ahead and remove those and you can finally seperate the upper portion of your seat from the bottom. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00009.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00010.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00011.JPG   Lets get surgical. Get the Xacto Knife out and locate this spot. That's where the outer ring of the seat bracket is on the bottom side. You'll want to trade around this "ring" so you can expose it. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00012.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00014.JPG   Now back to the bottom again. Theres a plate where the padding is connected. You'll want to seperate the padding by flaying it with your Xacto Knife. Bottom to top. You'll need to do this to the other side as well, but that's last. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00016.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00017.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00018.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00019.JPG   Couldn't get the headrest out? No worries. Lets get that out now. Make two small incisions below where the rails would go to expose the bottoms. Then just bang it out. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00021.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00022.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00024.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00025.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00026.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00030.JPG   Since were up here, lets get the mickey mouse ears. Pull the materials from the shoulder areas over the fabric to get better access to it. Now if you look at my picture on the top, there are Mickey Mouse ears on top. We have to cut around those. Trace em out like how I did it, and push the material through. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC00033.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01585.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01586.JPG   Now theres another bar that go's across the back part of the bracket and we just need to cut across to expose the bar so it's easier to seperate the bracket from the padding. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01587.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01588.JPG     Don't go ripping this thing off yet. Two more things left. First is the bolster bar. You'll need to trim into that to expose the bar so it's easy to remove from the padding. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01589.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01590.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01591.JPG   Now were back to that plate again but on the other side. Just flay it the same way you did the other side, bottom to top. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01593.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01594.JPG   Here's the material now seperated from it's passenger bracket. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01595.JPG   Here's the passengerside material meeting the driverside bracket for the first time. Awwww... Are they not just the cutest couple? I'm such a match maker. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01596.JPG   Lets put that bracket inside the material. It's easy since the brackets are nearly identical. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01597.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01598.JPG   Remember when we removed the metal clips from the bottom? Lets replace those with zip ties. Start from the right side where the single hole is, and make your way left. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01599.JPG   When you get to the last hole, stop and take the opportunity to bolt the seat rail back on the seat bracket. Once you've done that, pull the material to zip tie the last hole, but wait a second! The seat material isn't designed to work around the reclining part of the seat rails so you'll need to make just some small cuts to make it work. Then zip tie the last hole, and finish putting the seat back together. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01600.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01601.JPG http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01602.JPG   Here is our driverside seat hybrid. http://www.tunertrader.net/doyourself/seatrepair/DSC01604.JPG
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.