Jeff Papineau

My 2.4 EX 2004 automatic was shifting strange because the wiring harness was eaten a bit by rats; so if you can get it fixed, I paid $200 to have the wiring harness fixed. It was totally worth it because the car is great otherwise, and the solenoid that controls shift was not connected without those wires. No actual problem with transmission; just the wires for it.

you would want to mention size of engine, and miles, etc...

Sorry, this is the rare case where it's not worth fixing; sell the car if it really bothers you, and apologize to whomever buys it, you do not understand what the problem might be...

How about craigslist or edmunds? or autotrader?

MUCH better off putting 17" rims on it; leave as is otherwise.

Sounds bad by all means ask a dealer about it! Hope you got it fixed but I have had my 2004 Accord airbags replaced twice now; and they are great about telling me the old ones are defective. Could be like that.

I know it's hard, but please do consider buying an EX, sell the one u got, and have at it like that. Get the color you want; get the Nav, Leather, get all of it, who cares how many miles it has, buy the normal 2.4L and be happy! DONE

I think this comes from not replacing rotors same time as pads? Rotors can really be thin and weak, need to be replaced same time; it really will help with all kinds of possible potential issues when attempting to keep using existing rotors; new pads have to conform to any problems (warping as they become thinner, grooves); the factory rotors were crap! Buy some great ones! I thought same but it was entirely different once I simply replaced the rotors, and they were maybe $200 plus installation. Excellent investment. That said; you may have ruined your existing new pads by using them with old factory rotors, AND you can completely rethink now if you want to use ceramic or metallic pads with your new rotors.

Now that I read this again; sounds like you have a parasitic circuit that is draining your battery (which older batteries don't like) and it may fry your battery if you don't find it. So a $30 clamp-on current meter will show you what all wires are drawing while car is off, key out of ignition (with a charged battery, get a 3-4amp trickle charger), and then you can get it down to one removed fuse by finding the circuit that is drawing power while the car is off; then the parasitic draw should go away, no more battery problems. Track down the problem that way.

For me, it was parking outside the garage, warm engine in the mnts, rats ate my wiring harness a bit. Shorted or open wires; they were visible if I looked hard, found the spot but took it to mech to fix it; he had way more experience working on auto wiring than me, a lift, etc; so what he charged me was completely worth it. I think it was less than $100. Also, you can put a clamp current meter on various wires to see what they draw, and find a fan blower that's running hot, stuff like that. Could be shorting once it warms up but that's rare. See if once the relay comes on, the fuse shorts then?

Certainly sounds like you want to have the cooling system flushed; you don't mention what size engine in your car, but your radiator is probably fine, may be filled up with sludge tho. Worst case, you might start looking at prices for new/ used radiators from low milage auto parts online sellers. A good mech can also clean out your existing radiator, and fix any leaks, etc. NEW AFTERMARKET DENSO 03-04 #GD7511B A 7511B $110 May not include shipping but $110 is a great price for a new radiator. That's a nice car, it needs to be cooled when in idle.

How is the car driving??? yOu don't mention if it makes horrible noises, and if the brakes work, wheels turn, wheel ok, gas tank leaks. The body work is not that bad if you find something of a mobile body shop guy that can pull parts off a front-end totaled car at a junk yard. I would guess you really love the car and want to keep it? Is it insured for collision? Many things to consider... including how you like how it drives, and the cost to replace it all told. New cars are very overpriced... I buy used cars in very clean condition, with over 100K miles. For a Honda or a Lexus, that's nothing, compared to the 250K miles they will easily drive in their lifetime 😉 And I only pay $10-12.5k from independent dealers with low overhead, and low fees. "Totaled", as a word only means something to an insurance adjuster, who will not give YOU very much for a damaged car; and "worth fixing" is a completely different proposition to an auto owner that does not have collision insurance; thus you are much more motivated to keep the car and find the way to fix it if you have no collision insurance. This may mean finding the right shop; the right guy. I look on craigslist for body shop work in my area; very affordable... Meanwhile, you seem to buy new cars, accept they are incredibly overpriced, and are used to this notion. If you can get some payment toward a new vehicle that you will trust for weeks at a time on the road, then maybe it's worth it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4394523&cc=1432620&jsn=11&_nck=HllVxRCey1%2B2aVRDo41oQcMse1xIL9SL3KmW9dQXSf%2BAJlcOi2imTXTfOFLWd%2FZ7qi3oWcgQbtVtfiosB09jyUkNCc52VyjIqJdgXYHlD2ojJL2DI2VbmUsCkqJItUyzaOlckVhYCloAxTRAoZlU6O86kuf5M13piFOSZWY0oNIhds7F2VX6rvJnGVeEsmIKHDE%2BuQUr3j12VTnhw8sFZODWTCyxPvO7BeKVuj22Vh8ly21%2FXcyi0WbWXOq53MPBkgY4J7drvSCHz09hoI1qz%2FSD3EMLx3OONnsWNH%2BRj96mP9XHR6txw0g0c3IHA7ZJ6aYje9wgFiq1ObMy5lmDxSdLnEzYhgsI This starter diagnosis talks about making sure battery is fully charged, and make sure the terminals are clean. I've seen problems with contacts that go away when sprayed with electrical contact cleaner. In my experience, if there is no "click" when you turn the key for start, then it's the solenoid. But I think on the Hondas of that generation you just replace the entire starter assembly including solenoid. Sounds like it's due for a new starter...

https://car-part.com/ I see many listed here; some cheap, still on the car; these are used auto parts.

Scan the car's computer; it should tell you what is wrong. These days an app on your iphone or android and a plug-in scanner with wifi, will show you how your car is feeling. Or you can have the mech do it... Sounds like your starter is working, your battery is working, then take it from there. Ignition, fuel filter, fuel pump, at least it starts right? ;-) Probably a nice auto parts store person will scan your car for free if you want to try that. If your car eventually starts, it shows you the ignition is working mostly.. So then I'm thinking fuel pump and fuel filter are most obvious problems to check. It can also be silly things, like computer is running a check on other problems, delays starting the car. Stupid stuff like that.