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Jeff Papineau

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Jeff Papineau last won the day on October 21 2020

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    2004 Honda Accord Ex w/ Nav 4cyl Sedan

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  1. How is the car driving? yOu don't mention if it makes horrible noises, and if the brakes work, wheels turn, wheel ok, gas tank leaks. The body work is not that bad if you find something of a mobile body shop guy that can pull parts off a front-end totaled car at a junk yard. I would guess you really love the car and want to keep it? Is it insured for collision? Many things to consider... including how you like how it drives, and the cost to replace it all told. New cars are very overpriced... I buy used cars in very clean condition, with over 100K miles. For a Honda or a Lexus, that's nothing, compared to the 250K miles they will easily drive in their lifetime πŸ˜‰ And I only pay $10-12.5k from independent dealers with low overhead, and low fees. "Totaled", as a word only means something to an insurance adjuster, who will not give YOU very much for a damaged car; and "worth fixing" is a completely different proposition to an auto owner that does not have collision insurance; thus you are much more motivated to keep the car and find the way to fix it if you have no collision insurance. This may mean finding the right shop; the right guy. I look on craigslist for body shop work in my area; very affordable... Meanwhile, you seem to buy new cars, accept they are incredibly overpriced, and are used to this notion. If you can get some payment toward a new vehicle that you will trust for weeks at a time on the road, then maybe it's worth it.
  2. Jeff Papineau

    Chris

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4394523&cc=1432620&jsn=11&_nck=HllVxRCey1%2B2aVRDo41oQcMse1xIL9SL3KmW9dQXSf%2BAJlcOi2imTXTfOFLWd%2FZ7qi3oWcgQbtVtfiosB09jyUkNCc52VyjIqJdgXYHlD2ojJL2DI2VbmUsCkqJItUyzaOlckVhYCloAxTRAoZlU6O86kuf5M13piFOSZWY0oNIhds7F2VX6rvJnGVeEsmIKHDE%2BuQUr3j12VTnhw8sFZODWTCyxPvO7BeKVuj22Vh8ly21%2FXcyi0WbWXOq53MPBkgY4J7drvSCHz09hoI1qz%2FSD3EMLx3OONnsWNH%2BRj96mP9XHR6txw0g0c3IHA7ZJ6aYje9wgFiq1ObMy5lmDxSdLnEzYhgsI This starter diagnosis talks about making sure battery is fully charged, and make sure the terminals are clean. I've seen problems with contacts that go away when sprayed with electrical contact cleaner. In my experience, if there is no "click" when you turn the key for start, then it's the solenoid. But I think on the Hondas of that generation you just replace the entire starter assembly including solenoid. Sounds like it's due for a new starter...
  3. https://car-part.com/ I see many listed here; some cheap, still on the car; these are used auto parts.
  4. Since it's better in park, I assume you have some transmission issue; otherwise it could be tuning, including plugs, ignition, fuel filter clogged; air filter clogged. Anything that keeps the vehicle from idle smoothly can create this - missing. But if it gets worse in gear, I assume we are looking at the tranny... meanwhile it is not easy to service a tranny without replacement; so consider replacing it with a used one. You don't mention miles; transmission type.
  5. Scan the car's computer; it should tell you what is wrong. These days an app on your iphone or android and a plug-in scanner with wifi, will show you how your car is feeling. Or you can have the mech do it... Sounds like your starter is working, your battery is working, then take it from there. Ignition, fuel filter, fuel pump, at least it starts right? ;-) Probably a nice auto parts store person will scan your car for free if you want to try that. If your car eventually starts, it shows you the ignition is working mostly.. So then I'm thinking fuel pump and fuel filter are most obvious problems to check. It can also be silly things, like computer is running a check on other problems, delays starting the car. Stupid stuff like that.
  6. Looks impressive if you have a competitive installer nearby; I was looking at Modesto to get a rough estimate; $1700 if you have a Honda Accord and want to upgrade to leather, looks good to me if you are tired of cloth seats. I have 2004 EX Leather model; leather is still perfect from factory, so consider selling your vehicle to buy different model same era with MUCH better options???
  7. Electric bro... just consider the planet and the speed. Electric.
  8. Probably a great vehicle, well worth fixing if in good repair otherwise. In the S. Cal area, swapping engines is a very competitive businesses, PHX, TX too, so shop around. I would recommend you ask your mech for EXACT engine number, and find same from used parts dealers online. Only problem is it will be difficult to verify milage of a used engine, but companies parting out a wrecked vehicles will make a claim. 70K miles, etc. You should be able to verify the engine will fit, with the parts dealer who has much experience in this dept; you can call around until you are sure what to buy ;-) So shop for both milage, distance to ship, and price. Have the engine shipped to your mech directly. Might only cost a few $xxx for shipping via commercial freight to your state and city. Engine might be $1000-2000. It will likely work fine, but you won't really know the milage. It should last for years, that's all you care about; might cost $3000? for installation and parts? Very simple process. Find a mechanic you trust to do the work. Have his address and phone available for shipping info, for part purchase. You may want to replace transmission same time??? Might only cost another $500 to have a new transmission as well, the entire vehicle would last another 10 years. Shipping will be arranged by the parts dealer, all you need to do is make a phone call after finding the engine you want, need a credit card.. Have fun with it. Hondas are just so fun to drive and own. Pay him for the car? He might just want to give it to you ;-) it's only worth fixing for the owner; for anyone else, they might shop for a working car with less miles. But 2009, I guess that's a newish vehicle to have so many miles; nice car. I have a 2004, not that different, does not look as modern. Not even 150K miles on it, but it's not been driven much lately. If you look around, there are just so many nice cars for not that much $.
  9. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Accord 5th Generation EX Accord is best description, 1995. It is very inexpensive to attempt any number of search engine queries for typical 5th Gen honda electrical relay problems, very likely a faulty relay, but they exist both inside engine compartment, and under dashboard; inexpensive to replace, just start replacing everything to see if it helps πŸ˜‰ Search for typical 5th gen electrical problems, typical relay problems, typical electrical problems. Most parts retailers will allow you to return parts you don't need, if you exchange them for other parts. Or you can start with known problem electrical parts, cheapest first πŸ˜‰ Your car may be too old to do much with scanning software but my 2004 EX Accord will usually tell me on my iphone what is wrong; with the right app installed. Once I fixed the air conditioning on an EX with a $12 relay in the engine compartment; known problem/fix for that generation car. Also, you don't mention if it's a 4 cyl or 6 cyl car? When I talk to others about my EX, it's a 4 cyl 2004 Seventh Gen Honda Accord EX/Leather, which means it has a very specific electrical layout for that engine and feature set, including the stereo, heated seats, etc.
  10. Use Youtube ma man: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=honda+accord+1997+door+lock+problems dozens of videos on your car type: it's either actuators, or switches, or a combo of BOTH, have fun because it's easiest to debug EARLY, not later after 3 things break bro man.
  11. Air filter maybe.. 1st, have the car checked for computer codes, even if the trouble light is not lit up. Sounds like it's starving for fuel or has a bad sensor or clog someplace in the system, and not all problems will set of the check engine light. Post back if you find any codes and we can go from there. One post I read said this "Crank Angle Sensor replacement needed, most likely" but that's just a guess.. in general you are looking at vacuum leaks, air sensors, clogged fuel injector, long list of combustion and ignition timing problems that can cause misfiring. Here is a good article on the problem with Hondas: https://www.yourmechanic.com/estimates/honda/fit/engine-is-sputtering-inspection (they advertise mobile mechanics that will diagnose for you) An incomplete combustion in the engine will cause a sputter as can the ignition system. The fuel system, such as a blocked fuel injector may also cause the vehicle to sputter. While a sputtering engine may not seem like a major issue, it is a symptom of a bigger problem that will not self-correct and will eventually result in a much more expensive repair. The source of the sputter should be investigated and repaired as soon as possible. How this system works: A sputtering engine can have its root cause located in a number of different systems. Here are two of the more common ones, the exhaust and fuel system. The exhaust system collects exhaust gases from the cylinder head via the exhaust manifold, which acts as a funnel diverting exhaust gases away from the cylinders. The gases are then released through the front pipe where they travel to the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter removes the harmful elements of the gases such as carbon monoxide and hydrogen monoxide, converting them into inert gases. The gases exit the catalytic converter into the muffler, which reduces the noise levels of the engine, and finally the exhaust fumes exit the vehicle at the tail pipe. The fuel system is responsible for storing and supplying fuel to the car to drive the engine. Fuel is mixed with air, atomized and vaporized. This happens in the engine intake system. This mixture is then compressed in the engine cylinder and then ignited which produces the energy which moves the pistons. Common reasons for this to happen: Leak in Exhaust Manifold: A leak in the exhaust manifold, which collects exhaust gases, can cause the engine to sputter or run unevenly. This condition can also cause the Check Engine light to trigger as well as present increased engine noise and poor performance from the engine. A cracked or leaking exhaust manifold can create dangerous driving condition as the escaping hot gases can melt nearby plastic components. It can also lead to exhaust fumes making their way into the car cabin. Worn Seals or Gaskets: There are a number of gaskets and seals in the exhaust system and if any of them are failing it can create a rough or sputtering engine. Gaskets and seals wear down over time and will eventually have to be replaced. Failing to do this in a timely manner can damage the exhaust manifold which is a much more expensive repair. Failing Catalytic Converter: If the engine is sputtering, running rough and has a smell of rotten eggs it is probably due to a failing catalytic converter. In most cases, the Check Engine light will trigger as well. When a converter starts to fail, it isn’t able to burn off the hydrocarbons in the exhaust, and is no longer breaking down the sulfur created by the engine. This leads to the strong rotten egg smell. Eventually the car will not start at all as the catalytic converter becomes totally blocked. Malfunctioning Oxygen Sensors: Oxygen sensors measure how rich or lean the exhaust gases are when they leave the vehicles combustion chamber. The vehicle computer uses this information to adjust the amount of fuel entering the engine. A dirty or failing sensor puts too much or too little fuel into the engine causing it to run rough or sputter. Oxygen sensors must be replaced on a regular basis. Dirty Fuel Injectors: Fuel injectors spray fuel into the cylinders. It is then mixed with air and ignited. Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced. Bad or Dirty Spark Plugs: Spark plugs are responsible for igniting the fuel in the combustion chamber. If they are not working correctly or are dirty they don’t ignite the fuel cleanly and the car can misfire or sputter. The plugs will need to be replaced or cleaned. Dirty Mass Airflow Sensor: The mass airflow sensor measures the amount of air that is entering the fuel injection system. It sends that information to the vehicle computer, which then delivers the proper amount of fuel to the combustion chamber. A dirty mass airflow sensor will send the wrong information the computer resulting in a rough running or sputtering engine. Vacuum Leak: A leak in the vacuum system can lead to a sputtering or rough running engine. As the problem progresses the vehicle can hesitate or stall when accelerating.
  12. For me, it was the block shaped Relay in the fuse box of the eng compartment, fixed my AC. Was glad it was not the compressor. $10 relay
  13. I would just start replacing parts first probably, like replace the driver door switch, and check all the connections; it's easy to do, fast job if you watch a video. Sounds a lot like a bad switch except you may have proven it's not a switch already? I think your explailnation of the probably only makes things more mysteriuos; so just start working on it, and try to see if you find the problem. Obviously the driver door switch gets used a lot, so one idea is to replace it with the passenger switch but might as well just get a new switch, and try to see if that fixes it? Use some electrical contact cleaner on all connections too. Sometimes some impedance will create gremlins, fer sure.. Another idea is check the disable switch as well (kids safety switch) and that can interact with the rest of the system. Clean it up too. Finally, check the computer and make sure it's not trying to tell you about a problem it knows of; you may need to drive the car around, leave it running, THEN check the computer for errors when the problem happens again.
  14. Interesting conversation; I would say you already have one of the best engines of all time (VTEC), and you might want to consider electric pretty soon. If I were you I would not touch it, the beauty of the car is it never breaks and takes little maint, so just drive it like it's never going to die and rev it as hard as it will go. The transmission might not like a lot more power, and also you can probably tune it to be a little more powerful, like tweek the computer, change the plugs, go with new type of oil, stuff like that? I have one, I feel like it's a member of the fam, had it since new and its still drives like a new car. Great stereo in there, it's the full EX/NAV/Leather and it's a sweet car Just the way it is. I put better discs and breaks on it; I was more concerned with warped rotors and stuff like that. It stops way better now. If you drive something like an Audi A4, very similar ride and much faster, and also stops faster than the Honda... just saying, you may want a different car that has a turbo already. They are not expensive.
  15. "Stumbles", is probably the transmission shifting then? < it's good to know how the car works mechanically and be able to feel it do it's job, the engine, the transmission, the tires, brakes, suspension, feel how each is responding and be able to diagnose the actual vehicle as a whole, when the engine codes are not giving clues πŸ˜‰ I do not know the actual problem you are encountering; this is when you take to a mechanic and get his opinion; a transmission shop ( Independent and long reputation in your home area) can help you most. I recently fixed my 2004 Accord with 151K miles, because it was throwing a check engine light (Transmission solenoid not sending) and was shifting real poorly with jerking into each gear; it was scary. I thought I would need a new transmission; but the wires to the Transmission Solenoids had been eaten by rodents, as it sat outside at my mothers home near the forest trees, and they made a home in the warm tent afforded them. When I opened the front hood, I could see they were nesting on top of the engine... I took it to the self-serve and washed the engine, but it was still a problem with shifting. I paid $200 today to have wires fixed, so beware, if you live in rural forest areas, there are many ways to keep your wires from being eaten by rodents, including perfumes in soap bars, cut in small cubes, Bounce dryer sheets, pepper sauce on wire harnesses, all left around the engine compartment, and battery operated motion alarms for rodents, give lights and alarm sounds, scares them away very actively; guard your wiring harness! (motion alarm is currently $25 on Amazon).
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