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Jeff Papineau

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About Jeff Papineau

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    2004 Honda Accord Ex w/ Nav 4cyl Sedan

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  1. Jeff Papineau

    Car problems

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Accord 5th Generation EX Accord is best description, 1995. It is very inexpensive to attempt any number of search engine queries for typical 5th Gen honda electrical relay problems, very likely a faulty relay, but they exist both inside engine compartment, and under dashboard; inexpensive to replace, just start replacing everything to see if it helps ๐Ÿ˜‰ Search for typical 5th gen electrical problems, typical relay problems, typical electrical problems. Most parts retailers will allow you to return parts you don't need, if you exchange them for other parts. Or you can start with known problem electrical parts, cheapest first ๐Ÿ˜‰ Your car may be too old to do much with scanning software but my 2004 EX Accord will usually tell me on my iphone what is wrong; with the right app installed. Once I fixed the air conditioning on an EX with a $12 relay in the engine compartment; known problem/fix for that generation car. Also, you don't mention if it's a 4 cyl or 6 cyl car? When I talk to others about my EX, it's a 4 cyl 2004 Seventh Gen Honda Accord EX/Leather, which means it has a very specific electrical layout for that engine and feature set, including the stereo, heated seats, etc.
  2. Use Youtube ma man: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=honda+accord+1997+door+lock+problems dozens of videos on your car type: it's either actuators, or switches, or a combo of BOTH, have fun because it's easiest to debug EARLY, not later after 3 things break bro man.
  3. Air filter maybe.. 1st, have the car checked for computer codes, even if the trouble light is not lit up. Sounds like it's starving for fuel or has a bad sensor or clog someplace in the system, and not all problems will set of the check engine light. Post back if you find any codes and we can go from there. One post I read said this "Crank Angle Sensor replacement needed, most likely" but that's just a guess.. in general you are looking at vacuum leaks, air sensors, clogged fuel injector, long list of combustion and ignition timing problems that can cause misfiring. Here is a good article on the problem with Hondas: https://www.yourmechanic.com/estimates/honda/fit/engine-is-sputtering-inspection (they advertise mobile mechanics that will diagnose for you) An incomplete combustion in the engine will cause a sputter as can the ignition system. The fuel system, such as a blocked fuel injector may also cause the vehicle to sputter. While a sputtering engine may not seem like a major issue, it is a symptom of a bigger problem that will not self-correct and will eventually result in a much more expensive repair. The source of the sputter should be investigated and repaired as soon as possible. How this system works: A sputtering engine can have its root cause located in a number of different systems. Here are two of the more common ones, the exhaust and fuel system. The exhaust system collects exhaust gases from the cylinder head via the exhaust manifold, which acts as a funnel diverting exhaust gases away from the cylinders. The gases are then released through the front pipe where they travel to the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter removes the harmful elements of the gases such as carbon monoxide and hydrogen monoxide, converting them into inert gases. The gases exit the catalytic converter into the muffler, which reduces the noise levels of the engine, and finally the exhaust fumes exit the vehicle at the tail pipe. The fuel system is responsible for storing and supplying fuel to the car to drive the engine. Fuel is mixed with air, atomized and vaporized. This happens in the engine intake system. This mixture is then compressed in the engine cylinder and then ignited which produces the energy which moves the pistons. Common reasons for this to happen: Leak in Exhaust Manifold: A leak in the exhaust manifold, which collects exhaust gases, can cause the engine to sputter or run unevenly. This condition can also cause the Check Engine light to trigger as well as present increased engine noise and poor performance from the engine. A cracked or leaking exhaust manifold can create dangerous driving condition as the escaping hot gases can melt nearby plastic components. It can also lead to exhaust fumes making their way into the car cabin. Worn Seals or Gaskets: There are a number of gaskets and seals in the exhaust system and if any of them are failing it can create a rough or sputtering engine. Gaskets and seals wear down over time and will eventually have to be replaced. Failing to do this in a timely manner can damage the exhaust manifold which is a much more expensive repair. Failing Catalytic Converter: If the engine is sputtering, running rough and has a smell of rotten eggs it is probably due to a failing catalytic converter. In most cases, the Check Engine light will trigger as well. When a converter starts to fail, it isnโ€™t able to burn off the hydrocarbons in the exhaust, and is no longer breaking down the sulfur created by the engine. This leads to the strong rotten egg smell. Eventually the car will not start at all as the catalytic converter becomes totally blocked. Malfunctioning Oxygen Sensors: Oxygen sensors measure how rich or lean the exhaust gases are when they leave the vehicles combustion chamber. The vehicle computer uses this information to adjust the amount of fuel entering the engine. A dirty or failing sensor puts too much or too little fuel into the engine causing it to run rough or sputter. Oxygen sensors must be replaced on a regular basis. Dirty Fuel Injectors: Fuel injectors spray fuel into the cylinders. It is then mixed with air and ignited. Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced. Bad or Dirty Spark Plugs: Spark plugs are responsible for igniting the fuel in the combustion chamber. If they are not working correctly or are dirty they donโ€™t ignite the fuel cleanly and the car can misfire or sputter. The plugs will need to be replaced or cleaned. Dirty Mass Airflow Sensor: The mass airflow sensor measures the amount of air that is entering the fuel injection system. It sends that information to the vehicle computer, which then delivers the proper amount of fuel to the combustion chamber. A dirty mass airflow sensor will send the wrong information the computer resulting in a rough running or sputtering engine. Vacuum Leak: A leak in the vacuum system can lead to a sputtering or rough running engine. As the problem progresses the vehicle can hesitate or stall when accelerating.
  4. For me, it was the block shaped Relay in the fuse box of the eng compartment, fixed my AC. Was glad it was not the compressor. $10 relay
  5. I would just start replacing parts first probably, like replace the driver door switch, and check all the connections; it's easy to do, fast job if you watch a video. Sounds a lot like a bad switch except you may have proven it's not a switch already? I think your explailnation of the probably only makes things more mysteriuos; so just start working on it, and try to see if you find the problem. Obviously the driver door switch gets used a lot, so one idea is to replace it with the passenger switch but might as well just get a new switch, and try to see if that fixes it? Use some electrical contact cleaner on all connections too. Sometimes some impedance will create gremlins, fer sure.. Another idea is check the disable switch as well (kids safety switch) and that can interact with the rest of the system. Clean it up too. Finally, check the computer and make sure it's not trying to tell you about a problem it knows of; you may need to drive the car around, leave it running, THEN check the computer for errors when the problem happens again.
  6. Interesting conversation; I would say you already have one of the best engines of all time (VTEC), and you might want to consider electric pretty soon. If I were you I would not touch it, the beauty of the car is it never breaks and takes little maint, so just drive it like it's never going to die and rev it as hard as it will go. The transmission might not like a lot more power, and also you can probably tune it to be a little more powerful, like tweek the computer, change the plugs, go with new type of oil, stuff like that? I have one, I feel like it's a member of the fam, had it since new and its still drives like a new car. Great stereo in there, it's the full EX/NAV/Leather and it's a sweet car Just the way it is. I put better discs and breaks on it; I was more concerned with warped rotors and stuff like that. It stops way better now. If you drive something like an Audi A4, very similar ride and much faster, and also stops faster than the Honda... just saying, you may want a different car that has a turbo already. They are not expensive.
  7. "Stumbles", is probably the transmission shifting then? < it's good to know how the car works mechanically and be able to feel it do it's job, the engine, the transmission, the tires, brakes, suspension, feel how each is responding and be able to diagnose the actual vehicle as a whole, when the engine codes are not giving clues ๐Ÿ˜‰ I do not know the actual problem you are encountering; this is when you take to a mechanic and get his opinion; a transmission shop ( Independent and long reputation in your home area) can help you most. I recently fixed my 2004 Accord with 151K miles, because it was throwing a check engine light (Transmission solenoid not sending) and was shifting real poorly with jerking into each gear; it was scary. I thought I would need a new transmission; but the wires to the Transmission Solenoids had been eaten by rodents, as it sat outside at my mothers home near the forest trees, and they made a home in the warm tent afforded them. When I opened the front hood, I could see they were nesting on top of the engine... I took it to the self-serve and washed the engine, but it was still a problem with shifting. I paid $200 today to have wires fixed, so beware, if you live in rural forest areas, there are many ways to keep your wires from being eaten by rodents, including perfumes in soap bars, cut in small cubes, Bounce dryer sheets, pepper sauce on wire harnesses, all left around the engine compartment, and battery operated motion alarms for rodents, give lights and alarm sounds, scares them away very actively; guard your wiring harness! (motion alarm is currently $25 on Amazon).
  8. Just thought I'd mention that my girlfriend dropped our kayak on the ground, just as we were lifting it off my car (it was wet from hosing it off) and it broke my mirror off the passenger side of the car. It looked pretty bad, she felt really bad and I thought it was going to cost me hundreds to repair it at the dealer, etc. Then I told her don't worry about it, I'll look it up on line and see how to do it myself.. Well, reading about, I found that these mirrors are made to break off the car really easy and it doesn't take much (mental note, fold in mirror before moving boat, dry boat first, and don't drink beers first ;-) but it seems this mirror will just glue right back on if it's a clean break. In fact, I used some 5 min epoxy and the mirror is right back on the car, like it never happened! F*ck me, I'm so glad cause we have a trip planned and I wanted to take the car to get it lubed and fill the tires, etc this weekend, don't have time to mess with the mirror, mechanic, etc, etc, On my accord, I just took a screw driver and unscrewed the mirror pod assembly from the plastic mirror mount that hooks onto the door. I'm not sure all the mirrors are like this but mine is, where the mount comes with the replacement mirror, and the pod screws onto that. Those screws are really hard to reach when the mirror is on the car but mine was just hanging by the wire for the power mirror control.. so I unscrewed it. Then I fit the piece that came off to the mirror mount that's bolted to the door. It fit perfectly, no cleanup needed. I grabbed some old glue I had out in the garage, and some RUBBER GLOVES, cause that EPOXY IS NASTY STUFF and you don't want to get it on your hands or body. Put on old clothes because it will ruin shoes and clothes. Masked my door with newspaper and masking tape, and all around where I would have glue, every side of the door around the mirror mount. Mixed up some 5 min epoxy because I knew I wanted it to set as soon as I could apply the glue to both surfaces where the break was in the mirror mount. It took a minute to mix the glue on some old cardboard I could dispose of as soon as I was finished. With a toothpick, I mixed and then applyed glue to both surfaces. It took almost 2 minutes to carefully apply to both surfaces to be glued. As soon as I could, I very carefully fit the pieces back together exactly as I had previously rehearsed without the glue. I got a little on my, and tried to get it off my gloves by wiping newspaper on them. I fit the pieces and pushed HARD. Applying strong pressure I watched that all surfaces were evenly getting pushed together and I waited for about 1-2 minutes in a power pose as I did it. Release. Tada, the mount is securely set. Go watch some TV, or do something different. Take off gloves, Unmask car, and wrap up refuse and dispose of, don't take into the house! Nasty fumes from epoxy is very unhealthy to breath or expose others to. Come back, and the mount is on there very nicely after an hour. Very hard, will continue to harden over-night but we can work with it now. I grabbed a short phillips driver and a driver head from my drill kit. Putting in all screws as I mounted the pod, I hand tightened them as much as possible, then used the driver on the one screw that will take a short driver. The second and third screws are out of reach of a driver (I assume so nobody can steal your mirrors just by loosening 3 screws easy to get to). I used the drill philips head (3/4" long) to again, hand tighten with a driver bit. It would go in most of the way this way but not very tight. I put some long nose pliers (locking) on the driver bit and was able to turn them each another 2 turns after some patient 1/4 turns.. Done. Cost to fix my 2004 Honda Accord Side Mirror after a great day of sport: $0.00 Happy girlfriend, happy guy. After having spent a lot of time working out how much replacement mirrors cost on ebay, etc., and reading all the forums on how to take off my interior door panel, I didn't have to do any of that crap! I only saw a few posts that talk about simply gluing the thing back together. It's on there just as good as it ever was, can't tell it was repaired and it's stronger on the glue joint that it was before it was broken. But I did see one post, about a guy that said his was glued on and lasted another 4 years, and he just saw the car go by recently, driven by the guy he sold it to, a year later and it still had the same mirror attached he sold it with.. ;-) I love epoxy glue.
  9. Too much oil probably wouldn't do this; too much oil usually can cause oil seal leaks, very annoying problem but the car keeps running, until it runs out of oil and the engine seizes of course.. But it does sound like fuel or ignition, since the car sits and then starts. More probably fuel since ignition problems tend to not be so intermittent with electronic ignitions. But could be ignition oriented if the car is reacting to a sensor that tells the ignition to turn off for a while. I usually do a replace on obvious parts since at 160 it might need tune up, etc. Fuel filter is obvious replace. This is one time where it might be worth having a mechanic put it on their computer and watch it run for a while. Even a tune up center might be able to help you, and just replace a sensor and you're done. But with kids driving the car, nothing can be taken for granted; air filter, oil filter, trans fluid level, etc. I think I've wrecked a car just about every way possible when I was a kid; screw down the carb, run an engine with no oil filter, back into things. Live and learn...
  10. I got it done at 93k, never knew I should do any sooner. They showed me the dip stick was pretty brown. I love this car and want to drive it forever, so when he said I should change it, I went for it. I barely do any maint on this car for the almost 7 years I've owned it; a little rattle here and there I never tried to fix, it's very dependable and sporty with a 4 cyl Ex engine and 5spd auto-trans. I had it done at a chain lube chop, and they only charged me $119 and that seemed stiff; they assured me it wasn't something I would want to do myself (they say they run 16 qts of fluid through and most of that is for a flush). They use a special machine to do it, takes about 15 minutes. Not sure what I'd do with 3 gallons of flushed fluid to get rid of it, I figured I'd have them do it for me.. The guy told me he used to work at the Honda dealer and they charge almost $300 (hi end neighborhood) and they tell you to leave the car for half a day. Somehow, I find that believable, but maybe it's just a line.. I decided it wasn't going to matter, if your fluid is brown it's a good idea to change it.
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