James Matteu

Naw, takes me back to my two favorite Chemistry classes: Electronics for Scientists, and Physical Chemistry. In those classes, I had to work in both digital and analogue, AC and DC. I got a C in both classes, but I worked my butt off for that C and learned tons of info. Two Electrical Engineers failed Elec. for Sci., a third got a B, 5 students dropped the course in the first week, and the 3 Physicists each made an A. It was a small class held inside the biggest pile of electronics "junk" from the past 60 years. My instructor was nutty, he told us if we wanted to take out a small section of a power grid, and can hold the police off long enough: you make a fire large enough to reach a high-voltage high-tension line. The plasma in the flame conducts electricity, so the line will discharge to the ground, drawing too much voltage through the circuit and shutting down the line at the nearest station, then if the fire is hot enough, it softens the line until it snaps under its own weight. P. Chem. was even more difficult, all the Electrical Engineers dropped out of that class; it was only an elective for them. I only worked in digital, but had to make use of several types of sensors and connect them into circuit boards interfaced with a virtual workstation. That's how I am able to identify the A/C sensor in the CL by sight, and realize it is actually a commonly available temperature transducer. When I get the books, will just find the specs and buy a generic one (they are like 10 cents for 5 at Radio Shack).

I'm so excited about this Friday, I might just go ape sh*t and strip the CL out if I have the time; I only have 4 hours to giter done. I know for a fact that the CL I have my eyes on is missing the Instrument Cluster Trim, so even if I get everything else, the final install will not be done for some time; which give me time to plan out the electrical system. I need to work out the numbers in comparing/contrasting the CL and Accord circuits to make sure I don't dump to many DC amps over any one component. If necessary, I will incorporate relays, fusible links, or in-line reistors to drop amps to safe levels. Some electrical problems I have read about on the internet in doing this swap: Toasted Transistor - I realize that means they had a poorly fused circuit (to protect the transistor), and poorly managed amperage. Missing sensor - doesn't apply to me, the JDM Prelude digital climate control has 5 sensors, the CL only needs 4. People with Preludes have to add pins to the CL harness, mine will be fine coming out of the CL since the CL's computer will not be looking for a fifth input. Poor Mode Control - If the modes operate on a stepped voltage, the digital output may be incorrectly interpreted by the motor. Imagine the mode control responds to sound, in the Accord each position is communicated to the motor with: a whisper, a call, and a shout. If the CL uses the same concept, and the circuit controls its mode with: a whisper, a shout, a scream; then the Accord motor will only respond to the CL digital output by either selecting position one and three, no matter what buttons are pushed. So I will work out the numbers and see if a resistor can turn the volume down on the CL's digital output. I may end up taking the CL mode control to avoid the problem, but I will figure this out for people to follow my instructions and avoid any unecessary costs. My ramble: This morning I was thinking about the differences between the CL and Accord dash, the way the black trim extends out from the Instrument Cluster on the Accord and seems to wrap around the two center vents and climate controls. I was thinking about how the CL does not do this, rather how the climate control is incorporated into the dash, stylistically isolating it from the driver. I have been pondering this, and have come to really appreciate Honda's ability to communicate the purpose of a component in the way it's designed, i.e. its "look". The digital climate control is not part of the driving experience; it is aesthetically isolated from the driver since its purpose is to be set (at a particular temperature) and ignored. This design allows the driver to concentrate on driving, rather than fumbling with the climate controls.

I have always been fond of the faux wood, keep in mind my interior is tan/taupe. I never wanted to do it since it was not consistant with the look of the dash, i.e. there is NO faux wood anywhere else in the car; and the gastly venier crap people glue onto their dashes looks nasty. I peeped the JDM climate control for the JDM Accord long ago, but realized doing anything short of a RHD conversion, the parts would never look right in a USDM Accord. The day I sat in that CL in the bone yard, it all made sense, I had a moment of clarity . Yeah, I had a monkey touching the monolith moment; I saw a baby in Jupiter. Keep in mind, the wood accents can all be sanded and painted any color, they are hard plastic. In fact, it would save my swap budget 80-90 dollars; but I actually LIKE the wood. I could see someone painting the wood accents to match the exterior color of the car. If all works well, this will be one of the least expensive Climate Control installs available; every other Honda appears to have to source JDM Hondas for parts, but 5G Accords can pull everything from the CLs. There is even a writeup out there for a JDM climate control for a Prelude, and some of the parts are sourced from the CL.

Well that was easy. About 5 minutes of searching and I found instructions on how to remold the CL door panel or to dismantle both CL and Accord panels and reassemble them with some 3M adhesive. I found some publication online: Uniform Procedures For Collision Repair: PR-11 Plastic Repair, Adhesive v.2.3. Copyright 1998 Inter-Industry Conference On Auto Collision Repair: 1. Description: This procedure describes methods for making adhesive repairs to most types of exterior and interior automotive plastics. Procedures for reshaping plastic parts are also included. 9.2 Reshaping: 3. Heat the distorted area with a...or submerge in a hot water tank. The surface should be heated to 70-80 degrees Celsius.

I have The Plan: Step 1: Initial research Seach the internet to see if this has been done before, or go to bone yard and perform preliminary swap to ensure fitment. Status: Done, here, here. Step 2: Invested research I will go to the bone yard the Saturday after next, to buy the tops of the door panels from a CL and Accord sedan. I will use a pot of boiling water to remold the fiberglass and/or remove the vinyl. I will use 3M spray adhesive to reassemble the door panel; essentially fabricating a cross between the CL door panel and the Accord sedan door panel. Status: Fiberglass research completed. PVC research completed, invested research phase abandoned in lieu of a Plan B: Accord door panels will be reused. Step 3: Planning I will buy the 1997-1998 Acura CL Electrical Troubleshooting Manual sometime before the first Saturday of July, but after the door panels have been fabricated. I will use the manuals to decide how to route the wiring and what the CL's components need to function properly. I will put up the pin-out diagram the day after. Status: Done. Step 4: Preparation part 1 I will obtain from the CL: climate control, vent plumbing (if necessary), dash, temperature sensors, cruise control switch, and the necessary plugs or wires. I will look for the optional faux wood center console for the Accord, but will opt for the CL standard equipement if necessary. Status: Done. Step 5: Preparation part 2 All necessary wires will be prepped with corrugated tubing. Status: Aborted, it would be a waste to cut wire without knowing exactly how long to make it. Step 6: Dooooo eeeeet! Status: Done!!!! Projected Cost: Door Panels: $50.00 ea Dash, vents: $250.00 Climate Control: $30.00 Transistor: $10.00 Ducts: $60.00 Center Consol: $90.00 Cruise Control: $10.00 Total Projected Cost: ~$500.00 My Budget: $800.00 Money Spent: $11.38 for a CD that has: 1997-99 2.2/3.0 CL Body Repair Manual (List price: $42.00) Acura-Honda P/N 61SY830, 1997 2.2 CL Shop Manual (List price: $62.00) Acura-Honda P/N 61SY800, 1998-99 CL 2.3 Shop Manual (List price: $64.00) Acura-Honda P/N 61SY804, 1997-98 3.0 CL Shop Manual Supplement (List price: $38.00) Acura-Honda P/N 61SY803, 1999 CL 3.0 Shop Manual Supplement (List price: $38.00) Acura-Honda P/N 61SY805, all in pdf. $45.00 for "1997-1998 Acura 2.2/3.0 CL Electrical Troubleshooting Manual" (List price: $46.95) Acura P/N 61SY804EL $126.84 for the: Dash Temperature Sensor, Consol Temperature Sensor, A/C Core Temperature Sensor, Climate Control Buttons/Display, Ventalation & Plumbing, Blower Control, CL Dash, and the CL Cruise Control Switch. $20.65 for the External Temperature Sensor and Air Mix Control Motor $6.21 for 20ft of tubing (0.29/ft.) $4.23 for the Transistor Assembly pigtail $85.92 for the optional Wood Console Total Spent: $300.23

To go from this: to a fully operational Digital Climate Control: Parts The list price is given in parethesis Dash Temperature Sensor: Sun Beam Sensor ($47.45) Acura P/N 80510-SY8-A01 Console Temperature Sensor: In-Car Sensor Assembly ($37.92) Acura P/N 80530-SR3-941 Outer Aspirator Hose ($14.45) Acura P/N 80533-SV4-941 Inner Aspirator Hose ($183.45) Acura P/N 80532-SV4-A41 Aspirator ($22.77) Acura P/N 80533-SV4-A41 Aspirator Joint ($4.57) Acura P/N 80534-SV4-A41 4x20 Tapping Screw ($1.50) Acura P/N 90123-SV4-003 4x20 Tapping Screw ($1.50) Acura P/N 90123-SV4-003 External Temperature Sensor: Ambient Sensor ($27.45) Acura P/N 80525-SS0-942 Ambient Sensor Bracket ($5.87) Acura P/N 80521-SV4-940 6x16 Bolt-Washer ($0.82) Acura P/N 93403-06016-04 A/C Core Temperature Sensor: Evaporator Sensor ($20.97) Acura P/N 80560-SV4-A41 Brown Connector Clip ($2.05) Acura P/N 91556-SP0-003 Climate Control Buttons/Display: Automatic Air Conditioner Computer Assembly ($591.18) Acura P/N 79610-SY8-A02 Automatic Air Conditioner Switch Assembly ($302.65) Acura P/N 79650-SY8-A01 Ventilation & Ducts: Passenger Side Air Conditioner Duct Assembly ($35.82) Acura P/N 77430-SY8-A00 Driver Side Air Conditioner Duct Assembly ($35.82) Acura P/N 77420-SY8-A00 Center Air Conditioner Duct Assembly ($29.85) Acura P/N 77410-SY8-A00 Medium Taupe Driver Side Outlet Assembly ($59.43) Acura P/N 77620-SY8-A01ZC Medium Taupe Passenger Side Outlet Assembly ($60.52) Acura P/N 77630-SY8-A01ZC Medium Taupe Center Outlet Assembly ($91.13) Acura P/N 77610-SY8-A01ZC Medium Taupe Right Side Defroster Garnish ($25.67) Acura P/N 77471-SY8-A00ZC Medium Taupe Left Side Defroster Garnish ($25.67) Acura P/N 77476-SY8-A00ZC Blower Control: Transistor Assembly ($120.80) Acura P/N 79330-SF1-941 Power Relay Assembly, 4P Denso ($33.80) Acura P/N 39797-SE0-003 Air Mix Control Motor: Auto Mode Motor Assembly ($124.92) Acura P/N 79160-SV4-A41 The arm that is moved by the Auto Mode Motor Assembly, screwed onto the heater casing, needs to be removed as well. There is no part number for this peice, it is part of the blower unit housing. CL Dash: Upper Instrument Pad ($541.53) 77102-SY8-A00ZC (medium taupe), 77102-SY8-A00ZA (classic gray) Passenger Side Wood Grain Instrument Panel ($93.37) Acura P/N 77211-SY8-A00ZB Driver Side Wood Grain Instrument Panel ($25.05) Acura P/N 77216-SY8-A00ZB Black Meter Panel Assembly ($64.40) Acura P/N 77200-SY8-A00ZA Beige Driver Side Instrument Cover ($25.03) Acura P/N 77210-SV4-A00ZE Beige Passenger Side Instrument Cover ($16.12) Acura P/N 77215-SV4-A01ZJ Beige Lower Instrument Cover Assembly ($67.15) Acura P/N 77300-SV1-A10ZE Driver Knee Bolster ($65.98) Acura P/N 77893-SV4-A20 Meter Cover ($18.78) Acura P/N 77205-SY8-A00 CL Switches: Cruise Control Switch Assembly ($56.15) Acura P/N 36775-SY8-A01 Roof Switch Assembly ($33.00) Acura P/N 35830-SY8-A01 Wires: Dashboard Wire Harness ($771.68) Acura P/N 32150-SS8-A12 This part is not necessary if you cut each connector and pigtail off when removing components from the donor car. If you already have the harness or otherwise are stuck with one, remove the wires needed for this swap. Optional: Wood Grain Console Panel ($111.58) Acura P/N 77297-SY8-A10ZA, Honda P/N 08Z05-SV4-100 Note: Honda P/N 08Z05-SV4-100 is not available through any dealership, the item is discontinued I sprung for the optional wood console and still only spent $300.28, so take it from me, get your parts from the salvage yard. Installation Part One: Removing the Accord Dash TURN YOUR CAR OFF, LET IT SIT FOR 3 MINUTES or you could inadvertently deploy the SRS. BEFORE PROCEEDING, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY 1. Rear Console removal: Cup holder first, then the little door (or CD holder) under the arm rest. Remove 3 screws (see below) and then pull up and back (toward the rear seats). The console should come right out. 2. Front Console Panel/Contents removal: Take out your ash tray, then remove 3 screws and pull back and up (see below). There are 6 retainer clips holding the front console in; if the metal part pops off, pull it out and slide it back on the Front Console Panel. Once the panel is removed, loosen the two screws holding the radio/pocket bracket. The stereo/pocket should come loose, now unplug the DIN, Antenna Lead, and C444. 3. Removing all switches from the Instrument Panel: Remove the Steering Column Lower Cover at this point. It is the plastic that is in front of your knees when you are in the driver seat. The Steering Column Lower Cover covers the metallic Driver's Knee Bolster that is bolted behind it. It is only held in by retainer clips, so just pull on it until it pops out. Reach up under the Instrument Panel and push the switches from behind to pop them out. Remove the Moonroof/Cruise Control switch (C603 and C604), Dash Brightness controller (C605), and the Rear Defogger switch (C613). 4. Instrument Panel removal: Remove the 6 screws holding it in: 1 behind the Moonroof/Cruise Control switch, 1 behind the Dash Brightness controller, 2 above the Gauge Assembly, 2 below the A/C Controls. Pull gently on the Instrument Panel to remove it. As the panel starts to come out, insert your hand inside to push it from behind. Remove the Heater Control Panel Connectors: C611 and C612. Remove the Air Mix Control Cable, it is held down with one Philips head screw and the end is looped onto a peg. The Instrument Panel should be free, set it aside. 5. Gauge Assembly removal: Remove the 4 screws holding it in: 2 on bottom, 1 left, and 1 right. Pull the Gauge Assembly out and disconnect the three green connections at the top: C607, C608, and C609. If you plan on using the CL Gauge Assembly, the following alteration to the Accord Gauge Assembly is not necessary. Cut the plastic tabs on the sides of the Gauge Assembly (where the left and right screws were just removed from). Leave about 5-6 millimeters of the base of the tab; this will wedge the Gauge Assembly in the Black Meter Panel Assembly that comes with the CL dash. 6. Remove the Front Console: Open the Glove Box, insert a quarter into the right side slot and turn counter-clockwise (the peg should come out), pull up on the tab on the left and remove that peg. The glove box should drop down. Remove the 6 screws holding the Front Console in: 2 black screws on the left (they were covered by the Steering Column Lower Cover), 2 black screws on the right (they were covered by the Glove Box), 2 silver screws in the middle (they were covered by the Front Console Panel). 7. Remove the Driver's Knee Bolster: There are 4 bolts with 10 millimeter heads holding the Driver's Knee Bolster in. The Driver's Knee Bolster is hooked on the left and right, you will need to pull up and back once the bolts are out in order to unhook it. 8. Remove the Front Passenger's Airbag Assembly: Remove the Spring-loaded Lock Connector from the blue clip on the side of the Air Bag, C704. Disconnect the Spring-loaded Lock Connector by pulling the spring-loaded sleeve toward the stop while holding the opposite half of the connector, then pull the connector halves apart. Note: Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not on the connector half itself. Remove the 5 lower mounting nuts holding the Front Passenger's Airbag Assembly, then remove the Front Passenger's Airbag Assembly by pushing it up. 9. Remove the Dash Pad: Remove the left and right side Defroster Garnish with a flat head screw driver. Remove the tweeters the same way, but the tweeters will come out a bit and then be wedged up against the window, turning the tweeter either clockwise or counter-clockwise (depending on the side, I cannot remember which way I turned it) will release it from the dash far enough to disconnect them (C606 and C617). Remove 6 bolts: 2 in the middle, 1 behind the Left Defroster Garnish, 1 behind the Right Defroster Garnish, 1 behind the Glove Box, 1 behind the Driver's Knee Bolster. Pull back on the dash (one small tug on each side), until the ducts are visible from below. Remove the ducts: the center one has one screw in the middle (insert your hand into the duct to find it), the driver's side duct is held by two screws (one next the driver's side vent, one inside the duct on the heater core end), and the passenger's side duct is held by two screws (one behind the duct on the under side of the dash, one inside the duct on the heater core end). Once the ducts are out, you can remove the wire harness that is attached to the underside of the dash. Note: the white clips that hold down the harness are difficult to remove, they can be helped with a flat head screw driver, but some may break or break the pegs they are attached to, be prepared. Unscrew the Driver and Passenger side Instrument Covers from the sides of the dash, there are 4 screws holding on each. Removing these will allow you to remove the dash without damaging your leather wrapped steering wheel. The dash should come right out now. 10. VIN Change Over: Use a 3mm drill bit to remove the rivets holding the VIN onto the Accord dash. The rivet you use to afix the VIN plate on the CL dash depends on how big of a hole you have on your VIN plate, which may or may have not been enlarged by the drilling process. I was lucky and ended up using a smaller rivet. Installation Part Two: Sensors 1. Evaporator Temperature Sensor: Disconnect the A/C Thermostat (C445). Slide the transistor from its plastic bracket. Remove the four self-tapping hexagonal shaped screws, two mounting nuts and the mounting bolt. Remove the two self-tapping Philips screws from the A/C Lower Housing. Remove the metal clip in the front with a flat head screw driver. The A/C Housing will now be loose enough that you can pry apart the Upper and Lower A/C Housings and pull the entire A/C Housing away from the Heater Core Housing, which allows you to insert your hand into the A/C Housing to pull the thermistor clip from the Evaporator fins. Remove the Accord thermistor from the clip Insert the Acura CL's Evaporator Temperature Sensor in the Accord's thermistor clip. Insert the clip and sensor on the Evaporator where the thermistor was. Re-assemble the A/C Housing by pushing the A/C Upper and Lower Housings back together and replacing all bolts, screws and the metal clip. 2. Ambient Air Temperature Sensor: Remove each Front Turn Signal Light by loosening the screw found behind the access hole to the left and right of the grill. Each Front Turn Signal Light should come out, disconnect them: C203 and C303. Remove the two black plastic clips beneath the bumper. Remove the four bolts (2 on each side) that are now visible since the Front Turn Signal Lights have been removed. Remove the small bolts found at the top side of the bumper behind the inner fenders. The bumper should come out now, lift up and pull back. Using the threaded hole already on the radiator support (see below), attach the Ambient Air Temperature Sensor. Run two 20 AWG wires (one for sensor output, one for ground) from the sensor to the Passenger Side Inner Fender. Pass the wires along the Right Engine Compartment Wire Harness, protect the wires you add with Plastic Corrugated Tubing (a/k/a Loom) and zip tie the new harness to the Right Engine Compartment Wire Harness. There is a large grommet past the fire wall that the Right Engine Compartment Wire Harness passes through, push the wires through here and pull them through from the inside of the car. Later we will connect them to the Acura CL's Climate Control System. 3. In-Car Temperature Sensor: The Heater Core Housing comes ready to accept the Acura CL's Aspirator (see below). The hole is not open, but the plastic the Heater Core Housing is made of is easily cut. I used a 5 inch steak knife with a sharp tip and slightly flexible blade, to push through the plastic. I poked enough holes to pull the center out (see below). Don't pull the peg from the center like I did, I thought it would help, but instead I could have used the peg to pull the center out when I had cut enough of the edges. Now the Acura CL's Aspirator can be installed (see below). The Heater Core Housing comes ready to accept the Acura CL's Aspirator Joint (see below). Install the Driver's Knee Bolster from the Acura CL; it will have the proper mounting location for the In-Car Sensor Assembly. 4. Sunlight Sensor: Nothing will need to be changed for this sensor to be installed, simply follow the wiring instructions below. 5. Coolant Temperature Sensor: Nothing needs to be added, the Accord already has a Coolant Temperature Sensor. The wiring instructions will show how to tap into this sensor at the TCM. Installation Part Three: Wiring Connection Nomenclature 101 As you should have seen above, Honda labels each connection with a letter C and a number. Each ground is labeled in a similar fashion, with a G supplanting the C. The Acura manuals do not always number the connections or grounds, and the naming system varies by location in the vehicle. Colors Honda uses the following abbreviations for the colors they use to identify their wires, so will I: BLK………...black BLU………...blue BRN………...brown GRN………..green GRY………..gray LT BLU……light blue LT GRN……light green ORN………..orange PNK………...pink PUR………...purple RED………...red WHT………..white YEL…………yellow In the pin-out lists below, the first color listed for a particular wire is the color of the wire, the second color is the color of the stripe running down the length of the wire. Additionally, Honda will sometimes paint a wire with a silver stripe to differentiate it from other wires of the same color scheme. In the example below, these are the numbers in parenthesis. In the example, the BLU/RED wire had no silver stripe, the ORN/BLK wire had 2 silver stripes, and the ground wire, the black wire, also had no stripe. If I didn't put a number in parenthesis, I don't know what is painted on the wire. Numerology Honda numbers the wires in a connection, left to right, top to bottom. The numbering is done by first orienting the connection with the clip up and facing away from you, i.e. female end facing away. For example, in this photo, you see the A/C Power Transistor Connection: the large (14 or 16 AWG) Blue wire with Red stripe at the top is #1; the small (20 AWG) Orange wire with Black stripe on the bottom left is #2; and the Black wire with no stripe on the bottom right is #3. The connection is labeled as follows: A/C Power Transistor 1 BLU/RED (0) Fuse #17, 12V, 30A, Hot at all times 2 ORN/BLK (2) Power transistor control 3 BLK (0) G403 Unoccupied spaces Sometimes, not all the pins in a connection are used. Sometimes Honda numbers the empty spaces and then labels them on the pin-out diagrams as "Empty". Sometimes Honda skips over the spot, draws an X in the square on the pin-out diagram; and continues with the number convention without skipping any numbers. So a 15 pin connection may only appear to have 14 pins on the corresponding wire diagram. On with the pin-outs: 5th Gen Honda Accord: C611 (15 pin) Heater Control Panel 1 GRN/WHT - Recirculation Control Motor: Fresh 2 BLK - G404 3 GRN/RED - Recirculation Control Motor: Recirculate 4 LT GRN/WHT (2) – Mode Control Motor: Vent 5 LT GRN/BLK (2) - Mode Control Motor: Bi-Level 6 LT GRN/RED (1) – Drive Circuit 7 GRN – Main A/C Switch (-), goes to the Heater Control Panel: Heater Fan Switch 8 BLU/RED – Main A/C Switch (+), A/C Thermostat input 9 RED – Dim Control (-) 10 RED/BLK – Dim Control (+) X Empty 11 BLK/YEL – Fuse #8, 12V, 7.5A, Hot with key in the ON position 12 BLU (2) - Mode Control Motor: Defrost 13 BLU/RED (2) - Mode Control Motor: Heat/Defrost 14 YEL/GRN (2) - Mode Control Motor: Heat C612 (8 pin) Heater Control Panel: Heater Fan Switch 1 GRN – from the Main A/C Switch 2 BLK – G403 3 Empty 4 Empty 5 BLU – Fan speed #1 6 BLU/YEL – Fan speed #2 7 BLU/BLK – Fan speed #3 8 BLU/RED – Fan speed #4 C613 (6 pin) Rear Window Defogger Switch 1 YEL/GRN (2) – to defogger relay and defogger timer circuit 2 RED (1) – Dimming Control Circuit (-) 3 BLK/YEL (2) – Fuse #8, 12V, 7.5A, Hot with key in ON position 4 BLK (2) – G404 5 RED/BLK (1) – Dimming Control Circuit (+) 6 YEL/WHT (2) – to defogger timer circuit Pins 2, 3, 4, and 5 are not needed to run the digital climate control C618 (4 pin) Recirculation Control Motor 1 BLK/YEL – Fuse #8, 12V, 7.5A, Hot with key in ON position 2 GRN/WHT - Recirculation Control Motor: Fresh 3 Empty 4 GRN/RED - Recirculation Control Motor: Recirculate C619 (5 pin) Blower Motor Resistor 1 BLU/RED (0) – Fuse #17 (via relay), 12V, 30A, Hot with key in ON position 2 BLU/BLK - Fan speed #3 X Empty 4 BLU/YEL - Fan speed #2 5 BLU - Fan speed #1 Changes to C619 for the swap: To provide the Acura CL's climate control with a Blower Motor feedback, remove pin 1 on C619 and use it to replace pin 1 on the Acura CL's A/C Power Transistor connector. To provide a connection from the Acura CL's climate control to control the Acura CL's A/C Power Transistor, remove pin 5 on C619 and use it to replace pin 2 on the Acura CL's A/C Power Transistor connector. To provide a connection from the Acura CL's climate control to control the Acura CL's Blower Motor High Relay, remove pin 4 on C619 and use it to replace pin 4 on the Acura CL's A/C Blower Motor High Relay. Pin 2 is not needed to run the digital climate control. C436 (7 pin) Mode Control Motor 1 BLK/YEL (1) - Fuse #8, 12V, 7.5A, Hot with key in ON position 2 BLU (2) - Mode Control Motor: Defrost 3 BLU/RED (2) - Mode Control Motor: Heat/Defrost 4 YEL/GRN (2) - Mode Control Motor: Heat 5 LT GRN/BLK (2) - Mode Control Motor: Bi-Level 6 LT GRN/WHT (2) – Mode Control Motor: Vent 7 LT GRN/RED (1) – Drive Circuit ground C445 (3 pin) A/C Thermostat & Thermistor 1 BLU/YEL – to A/C Pressure Switch 2 BLU/RED – to C611 pin 8 3 BLK/YEL - Fuse #8, 12V, 7.5A, Hot with key in ON position Changes to C445 for the swap: To provide the CL's climate control with a uninterrupted connection to the Engine Control Module via the A/C Pressure Switch, cut or remove pins 1, 2, and 3 from C445, then solder the BLU/YEL to the BLU/RED. To provide voltage from Fuse #8 to the CL's Blower Motor High Relay, run a wire connecting the now cut BLK/YEL wire on C445 to the BLK/YEL wire on the CL's Blower Motor High Relay. C467 (2 pin) Blower Motor 1 YEL/BLK (0) – G403 2 BLU/RED (0) – Fuse #17 (via relay), 12V, 30A, Hot with key in ON position In this swap, nothing changes for C467 C603 (6 pin) Cruise Main Switch For the swap, the Accord connection needs to be supplanted for the CL's connection. All wires match in color. C605 (3 pin) Dash Lights Brightness Controller For the swap, this control unit moves to the other side of the Gauge Cluster; so add 8-10 inches of wire to the harness, behind the connection. This will allow enough slack to move the control unit to the other side of the Gauge Cluster 1st Gen Acura CL: For the CL connectors, I will either give a short description of what the pin is for, or simply give the name of its analogous pin on the Accord, you can look above to see what the description is. Climate Control Unit: Connector A (the black one), BC 1 ORN/BLK (2) – C612 pin 5 2 GRY (2) – 5V reference from the Air Mix Control 3 GRN/WHT (2) – C611 pin 1 4 GRN/RED (2) – C611 pin 3 5 BLU (2) – C611 pin 12 6 BLU/RED (2) – C611 pin 13 7 YEL/GRN (2) – C611 pin 14 8 LT GRN/BLK (2) – C611 pin 5 9 LT GRN/WHT (2) – C611 pin 4 10 BLU/YEL (1) – C611 pin 8 11 Empty 12 YEL/GRN (1) – Sensor ground * 13 WHT/RED (2) – Sunlight Sensor input 14 RED/WHT (1) – Engine Coolant Sensor, run a wire to RED/WHT on C461 15 BRN/WHT (1) – Ambient Air Temperature Sensor input 16 YEL/RED (2) – In-Car Temperature Sensor input 17 PNK/BLK (2) - Air Mix Control potential input 18 BRN (1) - Evaporator Temperature Sensor input 19 BLU/ORN (1) – C612 pin 6 20 Empty * attach all 5 sensor YEL/GRN ground wires to one wire that leads to pin 12 Climate Control Unit: Connector B (the grey one), GC 1 BLK/YEL (1) – C611 pin 11 2 Empty 3 RED/WHT (2) – Air Mix Control "Cool" 4 RED/YEL (1) – Air Mix Control "Hot" 5 BLU/RED (1) – C612 pin 8 6 WHT/YEL (1) – Memory, 12V, 7.5A, Hot all times, wire this to the stereo's WHT/YEL wire (C429 pin 4) 7 RED/BLK (1) – C611 pin 10 8 RED (1) – C611 pin 9 9 BLK (2) – C611 pin 2 10 LT GRN/RED (1) – C611 pin 6 11 YEL/GRN (2) – C613 pin 1 12 YEL/WHT (2) – C613 pin 6 A/C Power Transistor 1 BLU/RED (0) – repin with C619 pin 1 2 ORN/BLK (2) – repin with C619 pin 5 3 BLK (0) – G403, see "Make a connection to G403" below Blower Motor High Relay 1 BLU/RED (0) – connect to the BLU/RED wire now attached to the A/C Power Transistor without severing that wire 2 BLK/YEL (1) – connect to BLK/YEL on C445 3 BLK (0) – G403, see "Make a connection to G403" below 4 BLU/ORN (1) – repin with C619 pin 4 Make a connection to G403: Solder both BLK wires to a third 10 AWG wire that has a loop at the end. Bolt the loop to the chassis G403. This will ground both BLK wires coming from the Blower Motor High Relay and A/C Power Transistor to G403. Air Mix Control 1 RED/YEL (1) – GC pin 4 2 YEL/GRN (1) – BC pin 12 * 3 GRY (2) – BC pin 2 4 PNK/BLK (2) – BC pin 17 5 RED/WHT (2) – GC pin 3 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor 1 YEL/GRN (1) – BC pin 12 * 2 BRN/WHT (1) – BC pin 15 Evaporator Temperature Sensor 1 YEL/GRN (1) – BC pin 12 * 2 BRN (1) – BCC pin 18 In-Car Temperature Sensor 1 YEL/GRN (1) – BC pin 12 * 2 YEL/RED (2) – BC 16 Sunlight Sensor 1 YEL/GRN (1) – BC pin 12 * 2 BRN (1) or WHT/RED (1) – BC pin 13 * attach all 5 sensor YEL/GRN ground wires to one wire that leads to pin 12 A wiring diagram is in a later post see below (I would say the last page, but that may change), I have reached the photo limit for one post. Installation Part Four: the CL dash From this point on, the installation is pretty much in reverse of the Accord dash removal. Some tips and highligts are listed below. Remove the Upper and Lower Steering Column Covers, it's held in by 3 screws. Remove the Driver and Passenger Side Instrument Covers from the Acura CL dash, they are held on by 4 screws. Attach the under-dash harness in the same places the harness was attached in the Accord; be sure to run the connection for the Sunlight Sensor out of the hole at the top of the dash. Once the harness is in place, install the three black ducts. Once the ducts are in place the dash goes back in pretty much the same way it came out. Auto Mode Motor Assembly: Some of the passenger side heat vent will need to be cut to make room for the Auto Mode Motor Assembly (see below). The mounting posts for the Auto Mode Motor Assembly should already be on the bottom of the Heater Core Housing, don't forget to replace the metal arm the motor actuates. When installing the Gauge Assembly, the fitment is tighter than with the Accord dash. The Gauge Assembly should be inserted one side at a time, then set into position once inside the dash. Note: the Gauge Assembly will only be held in by two screws, but the 5-6 millimeters left when the side tabs were removed will laterally stabilize the Gauge Assembly. Additionally, the Black Meter Panel Assembly will press the Gauge Assembly against Meter Cover. Last step for this section is to reconnect the battery and turn the key. Installation Part Five: Doors Please pardon my dust, this section is still under construction. It is a work in progress, and I own a sedan, not a coupe. Coupe: Panels: The Door Panels from the CL should be a direct swap to the Accord Door Panel, the Handle Assembly is a different story. Switches: The Door Lock Switch Assembly from the CL matches both Accord sedan and coupe; even the connection matches. The Master Power Window Switch Assembly connector should be either a direct swap or only slightly different. Repining or soldering should be to a minimum. The Remote Control Mirror Switch Assembly is a direct swap and you get the added bonus of obtaining a Mirror Defogger Switch (for non-Canadian North American models). Lights: The Courtesy Light Assembly is the same. Even the connection is the same. Inside Handles: The Inside Handle Assembly from the CL will need to be swapped in for the Accord set. I haven't figured out where the Inside Handle Assembly needs to be screwed in against the door, although I have read on the internet that the Lock Knob Rods from the CL will need to be used since the distance from the Inside Handle Assembly to the Power Door Lock Assembly is greater than in the Accord. Sedan: Panels: A new Door Panel may have to be created from a CL Door Panel top and an Accord Door Panel top that has been reattached to the Accord Door Panel bottom. The front of CL Door Panel top, back to the Inside Handle Assembly, is needed to utilize the CL's Inside Handle Assembly. From the CL's Inside Handle Assembly to the rear of the CL Door Panel top is a different story. I haven't decided how exactly to do this, but will keep this thread posted. Switches: The Door Lock Switch Assembly from the CL matches both Accord sedan and coupe; even the connection matches. The Accord's passenger side Power Window Switch Assembly is located at the Inside Handle Assembly. On the CL, Power Window Switch Assembly is located on the Passenger Door Grip. This presents a problem, as in switching to the CL Door Panel top, you potentially loose the Power Window Switch Assembly found on the Accord. On the driver's side, there is no problem and nothing changes; if a new Door Panel can be created as described above. The Remote Control Mirror Switch Assembly is a direct swap and you get the added bonus of obtaining a Mirror Defogger Switch (for non-Canadian North American models). Lights: The Courtesy Light Assembly is the same. Even the connection is the same. Inside Handles: The Inside Handle Assembly from the CL will need to be swapped in for the Accord set. I haven't figured out where the Inside Handle Assembly needs to be screwed in against the door. The Lock Knob Rod from the CL may or may not be needed. The distance from the Inside Handle Assembly to the Power Door Lock Assembly is much shorter in the sedan relative to the coupe, but this distance with the CL components may be greater than the OEM setup in the Accord sedan. I will keep this thread up to date on any developments. Options Wood Console Acura P/N 77297-SY8-A10ZA, Honda P/N 08Z05-SV4-100 For those of you with the 1996-97 Accord, that have the Mild Beige/Taupe color scheme, the faux wood may be just as appealing to you as it is to me. For the Mild Beige/Taupe crowd, installing the optional faux wood center console may be just what your looking for to complete the look. For the 1994-95 crowd, the faux wood may not be as appealing since instead of Mild Beige, you have a yellowish tan color. Other Colors For everyone else, you may want to consider either painting the faux wood that comes with the dash to either match the dash padding (or another color of your choice, see below). The dash garnish is a hard plastic that can flex a little bit, so a paint designed for plastics (paint with a flex agent) will be needed. Alternatively, one could easily score the garnish and glue on a carbon fiber veneer. Other THIS IS A WORKING SWAP!!!! There are quite of few threads written by persons that either installed the digital display for show, i.e. they got power to it but no sensor signals. One guy even used the entire CL harness (OBD-II) and bought a conversion harness for his '95 Accord Coupe (OBD-I), instead of opening the CL harness and sourcing the wires he needed, . In my swap, all temperature sensors are in their appropriate locations so that the computer can properly control/adjust the temperature autonomously, i.e. the system will function properly. Reason for doing this swap 'Cause digital climate control kicks a$$ and it's cheaper than doing a Right Hand Drive Conversion (RHDC) which is essentially what you would need to do to use the JDM 5th Gen Accord Climate Control. If you have money like that, spring for the InterNavi (Honda's JDM DVD Navigation for 5th Gen Accords) along with the RHDC. Advantages for 5th Gen Accords When compared to other digital climate control swaps, this is better because: 1. the Acura CL heater valve control function is not vacuum controlled. 2. the Acura CL is built on the Accord platform, so fitment is not an issue. 3. Acura CL parts are easier to find in most area of the US, and are often cheaper than JDM parts 4. I did most of the research and documentation, just follow my instructions. Authored by James Matteu Vehicle: 1997 Honda Accord EX V6 with leather and alloys

I forgot to ask (tubbith), does the 3.0 CL come with a keyless trunk opener?

Well, I finally got out to the bone yard on other business, and I got to check out the Acuras they had. Bad news, the 1996 TL they had did not have keyless entry with trunk release. In fact, the latch seemed identical to mine. I checked out a 1997 RL they had and it did have a keyless entry with trunk release, but the mechanism was similar to what Honda used in their 6th Gen Accords, i.e. it wouldn't fit mine. I guess I will have to settle for a keyless entry without a trunk release unless I find some aftermarket jazz worthy of being installed in a Honda.

Thanks! I'm headed out to that TL tomorrow. Edit: Wife on call, it has to wait until next weekend.

Nuf, said. Thank you for your imput, your answer is exactly what I am looking for. I just want to know which ones came with a remote trunk release button with their keyless entry. The finer intricacies of fitment can be worked out after I establish which came with it. I think the remote trunk release on keyless entry is a upper model option, perhaps I would have luck with Integra owners or somebody with a TL or RL. I should probably go back to the boneyard to the 1996 3.2TL I nabbed the security light from and see what the trunk release looks like. 300

I don't see how adapting a 1996 Del Sol keyless entry to a 1995 model would present much of a problem. 1996 was a refresh year, not a huge change in chassis like the 1997 Accord and the 2002 Accord (which is my problem. Speaking of my problem, can anyone help me? I need to know what Hondas came with keyless entry; and a trunk release as an option or standard equipement. I thought Preludes had a remote trunk release, but it seems they only had a keyless entry option. I know the Odyssey has several options, but doubt the equipment would fit the Accord, can someone verify that. Any help is appreciated. 281

1996-1997 Del Sols had keyless entry as an option, no trunk release option though. :( Well, no dice. The 2002 Honda Accord has a trunk release mechanism that would not fit where I want to put it. I have to find another Honda with a more compact trunk release mechanism, or breakdown and get some aftermarket jazz.

My co-worker has a 2002 Honda Accord EX-L V6 with keyless entry (6G keyless has a trunk opener). She will let me swap our truck release mechanisms to see if hers will bolt onto my trunk. Today I will make an impression on a piece of paper to see if the bolts line up, then I will go through the trouble of swapping to see if there is adequate clearance. 243

What I was really suprised at was how similar the interior of the 1996 Acura 3.2TL was to the 1997 Honda Accord SE w/wood consol. The design queues are almost identical. The TL has a more extensive use of the faux wood plastic found as an option on the SE (TL has it on the door handles and on the ash tray cover). What first caught my eye is how the shade of brown Honda used on the TL's door is the same exact shade of brown found on mine. Then I saw the curve at the top was apparently identical, then I saw the security light. I slid the door cover up and noted no difference between the TL and Accord in general layout and hardware. The light was simply held in by clips and fit into a hole that could be cut by a dremel tool. So I grabbed it. I am going to use a adjustable french curve to find the right part of the door to put this on. 221

I picked up a new goodie for this project from the bone yard. Security Indicator, Black Honda P/N 39890-SW5-A01ZA list: $34.87 bought for $2.50 It came from the door of a 1996 Acura 3.2TL. 221

This is how to put one of these on your rear bumper: Why EDM and not UKDM? The Honda Rear Fog Light belongs behind the driver (the left side here in the US). Sourcing a Honda Rear Fog Light from a Left-Hand-Drive (LHD) country is preferable. Honda Rear Fog Lights sourced from the United Kingdom, Japan, etc. are designed to go on the right side of the bumper; as is the same in all Right-Hand-Drive (RHD) countries. The Honda Rear Fog Light can be sourced from a RHD country, but the fitment will not be to spec if flipped and installed on the Driver's side (US). The Honda Rear Fog Light is supposed to produce a beam of light that is level with the ground. As such, the Honda Rear Fog Bumper Assembly is designed to fit the curvature of the 5th Gen bumper. If RHD equipment is used on the Left side, the curvature of the Honda Rear Fog Bumper Assembly forces the Rear Fog Light to be aimed slightly torward the ground. Tools: Dremel 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit with 1/8" steel shank New (sharp) razor 5" Serrated Knife Philips Head Screw Driver 10mm socket 3/8" drive Ratchet Parts: Light: Parts Group #26, Honda P/N #4 Gasket, Honda P/N #5 Screw, Honda P/N #25 Stanley Lens #049-8344, red, 6" x 2 1/16" #28 21W Single Filament Bulb. I used a Sylvania 1073 (12.8V, 23W), though any bulb with an output of at least 21W, a single filament, and a BA15s bayonet mount will work. Pictured, but not numbered: Stanley Reflector #041-7293, white Single Filament Bulb Base Two Pin Connector Bracket: Parts Group #24 Rear Fog Bumper Assembly, Honda P/N 71515-SV1-0000 #45 Front Combination Light Nut, Honda P/N 90303-SA5-0033 #23 Rear Fog Trim, Honda P/N 71511-SV1-0000 #57 Screw, Honda P/N Switch: Harness: It looks as if the harness (fabricated or bought) will have to be run through a grommet. Instructions: The goal is to create this circuit. more to come... Other: Reasons for adding a rear fog light: It rains so hard here in Florida that people often pull over for lack of visibility. I usually keep truckin' when I have a fresh coat of RainX, but always keep an eye behind me just in case the person behind me is too close. I want to be sure I am seen from behind in these reduced-visibility adverse weather conditions. Maintenance:

FYI, the FOB pictured is for a 1999-2000 Accord and only 1998+ have trunk openers incorporated into the keyless entry. Can somebody help me with this? 1. If you have any Accord 1994-1997 with keyless entry, can you give me the name of the manufacturer and MILSPEC number for the 4-pin and 5-pin relays. 2. Um, well #1 is all for now. Thanks.

How to put this on your key chain, and have it do more than look good. These instructions are for USDM 1996-97 Honda Accord, non-SE models, but can be adapted to other vehicles. Parts: Keyless/Security Control Unit: Honda replaced P/N 08E51-SV4-100F with P/N 08E51-SV4-102F, but the Security Control Unit pinout never changed; here is the pin-out for both 08E51-SV4-102F and 08E51-SV4-100F: 01 Wagon Unlock Output 02 Door Switch Input 03 Trunk Open Input 04 Hood Switch Input 05 Disarm Switch 06 Lock Output 07 Select Unlock Relay Control 08 Unlock Output 09 Siren Control (-) 10 Battery 11 Ignition 12 NC* 13 Ground 14 Security Indicator Control 15 Ignition Key Switch Input 16 Ceiling Light Control 17 Light Flasher Relay Control 18 Horn Control 19 Starter Cut Relay Control 20 Trunk Open Control 21 Siren Control (+) 22 Wagon Lock Output *I could not find any information on what this pin is supposed to do, so I opened my Security Control Unit and listed what is printed on the circuit board. Attachment Kit: You have three choices here: 1. BUY ONE IF you can find/purchase an Attachment Kit for a 1996-97 Honda Accord, Honda P/N 08E55-SV4-101, congratulations, your finished, just follow the dealer install instructions and your done. 2. MAKE ONE FROM SCRATCH You can buy new or used relays, some fuse holders from Radio Shack, and connections from the salvage yard. Just use the information I provide below to make your parts list. 3. ALTER ANOTHER ATTACHMENT KIT You can obtain one of the following: 1996-01 Honda CR-V, Honda P/N 08E55-S10-100, 1996-97 Honda DelSol, Honda P/N, 1997-00 Honda Odyssey, Honda P/N, and make your own attachment kit (I started with the CR-V attachment kit). Honda P/N 08E55-S10-100 comes with: 1 Operating Instructions, Honda P/N 08E51-SV4-1F181, 2 Mitsuba #725 1T, 12V Normally Open 5-pin relays, Honda P/N 39799-SE0-014, 2 Mitsuba #727 RC-2201, 12V Normally Open 4-pin relays**, Honda/Acura P/N 39797-SE0-004 1 Microfuse, 3A, 2 Transmitter, Keyless Entry Cipher, Honda P/N 39950-S01-A01 1 Disarm Switch Assembly, Honda P/N 8E51-SV4-1M004 1 diode***, 2 large black re-closable zip ties, 1 medium sized blue push pin zip tie, 1 small clear zip tie, 2 Wire Harness Cushion (50mmx100mm), Honda P/N 91902-SB2-003 1 fuse sticker, 3A 2 "Equiped With HONDA Theft Deterrent System" window stickers (reversed for inside placement), 5 10mm bolts, 3 10mm nuts, 2 small L-shaped brackets, and 1 large bracket. ** For the Accord installation, only one of the 4-pin relays is needed. The CR-V Attachment Kit came with a pair of 4-pin relays since the CR-V has a trunk window release solenoid. This second relay can be repurposed to function as a trunk release relay, used to operate a trunk release mechanism. *** The Accord does not have a roof mounted trunk light like in the CR-V, the diode is unecessary. Then obtain these connections from another Accord: C412 p98 8-GRY left dash, cut off both the male and female connection, C413 p98 20-GRY or 20-BLU left side of dash, cut off both the male and female connection, C425 p95 find something that connects to C425, it's either a 4-GRY or 3-GRY, C435 p81 20-GRY left dash, cut off both the male and female connection, C609 22-GRN behind Gauges, only the female connection is there, take it, *C608 14-GRN behind Gauges, only the female connection is there, take it, *C607 16-GRN behind Gauges, only the female connection is there, take it, C634 p60 6-GRY driver's door, cut off both the male and female connection, * These two connections are needed for their wires. Security Options: Hood Switch Kit: Honda P/N 08E49-SV4-100G Siren Kit: Honda P/N 08E49-SV7-101F Security Option Harness: Honda P/N 08E57-S84-100 If you can find any of the Security Options for sale, more power to ya! For the rest of us, I will show how to make your own Hood Switch Kit. The first thing to do is get the microswitch off a 1G Acura CL that has Hood Switch security option. I haven't seen other Hondas with Hood Switches, but if the switch looks like the one in the photo then chances are it will work. Trunk Opener: The Security Main Unit does come with a connection that will operate a trunk release (see pin 20 above), by pressing the Option Button for 30 seconds. More to come... Fabrication: Wiring Harness: These are the harnesses I made: The GRN 22-pin connection pulled from the other Accord was repinned to get most of the colors to match the stock harness that would have come with the OEM Accord Security Optional Harness; and to add wires where none existed for the gauge cluster. Below you see the gauge cluster connection. As you can see, there are far fewer than 22 wire present. First, pry up the stop bar. Then pry up the other stop bar until the connection looks like this: Then insert a large paper clip into the release hole, push back until you hear a click. Then remove the pin: Repeat this to remove any other pins, insert wires from the other two gauge cluster connections to fill the empty spaces. Hood Switch: The hood switch is essentially your regular hood latch with a microswitch rivetted onto the hood latch at the right place. I will be doing this by or on next weekend (August 16-17), stay tuned. Security Control Unit Bracket: The bracket that comes with the 1G CR-V package, is bolted behind the CR-V's left kick panel, just to the left of the CR-V knee bolster. I don't have to tell you 5G Accord guys that we don't have anywhere for this little guy to be bolted to the left of the knee bolster. The dealer installed security option for the 5G Accord goes behind the knee bolster, in front of the steering column; the factory installed keyless entry unit is installed by Honda under the passenger side seat, and works in conjunction with the door lock unit in the driver's side door. Since both Keyless Entry Unit and Security Option Unit utilize antenae if similar range, placing the Security Option in either location is acceptable. I chose behind to place mine behind the knee bolster to keep the wire harness short and prevent my small children from kicking the unit under the seat. Remove the kick panel and knee bolster, there are two threaded holes where the stock bracket belongs, I bent the CR-V bracket and used one of the threaded holes to attach the bracket. Then one of the foam pads belongs beneath the bracket. This gets the job done, but I thought it was ugly and plan on obtaining some sheet metal to fabricate my own bracket to fit in the OEM postion at a later date. Trunk Opener: More to come... Installation: This is section depends alot on how many connections you were able to find, fewer connections means you will be doing more soldering. What I wrote below is based on the connections I suggested to obtain. Note: I had to solder three additional wires since I could not find one of the prescribed connections. Part One: The Door Part Two: The Door Part Three: The Hood Part Four: The Trunk LED Options: LED: You really can put the LED anywhere, I don't like the one that comes with the kit. I used an LED from a 1996 Acura TL, see below, but may later switch to the LED that comes on a 1999 Acura 3.0 CL Premium. Other: How it works: more to come... Reason for using the Honda OEM Security System Option for a CR-V: With the 5th Gen Accord, Honda initially distributed Honda Security System P/N 08E51-SV4-100F as a dealer installed option. The same Honda Security System P/N 08E51-SV4-100F was available as a dealer installed option for the 1996-97 Honda DelSol. At some point in time, Honda replaced P/N 08E51-SV4-100F with the newer P/N 08E51-SV4-102F. It was essentially the same part. I believe Honda was trying to consolidate their stock since the newer part was then used in the 1994-97 Accord, 1996-97 Del Sol, and 1996-01 CR-V. Reason(s) for doing this with Honda OEM equipment: I have no good reason to shell out the cash for a Honda system other than I like the way the FOB looks, sorry, I hope you weren't looking for something deep and meaningful. For $193.55, I got the Security Unit: Honda P/N 08E51-SV4-102F and CRV Attachment Kit: Honda P/N 08E55-S10-100; brand new! Security System Operating Instructions for P/N 08E51-SV4-102-F: Introduction Congratulations on your purchase of this Honda Security System. Your Honda Security System is the product of years of research and development. It will give you many years of reliable performance, protection, and convenience. The system consists of two major components: a main unit and a remote control transmitter. The main unit is the "brain" of the system. The built-in programmable microprocessor monitors your vehicle for optimal protection while offering various options to tailor the system to the preferences of the different users. The pocket-sized remote control allows you to turn the system on and off from outside the vehicle while simultaneously locking an unlocking the doors*. The transmitter can also be used to intentionally activate the horn or optional siren in case of an emergency. To take full advantage of your Honda Security System, we encourage you to read this manual thoroughly. Due to the expertise required to properly install the Honda Security System, we highly recommend that the installation be performed by your Honda dealer. Proper wiring and component placement are essential for optimum system performance. This device complies with FCC Rules Part 15. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) This device may not cause harmful interference and (2) This device must accept any interference that may be received including interference that may cause undesired operation. *For vehicles equipped with power door locks. Precautions Remote Control Range Several factors affect and reduce remote control range. Among these are: 1. Proximity to buildings and automobiles. 2. Proximity to high power transmitters (television, radio, cellular, HAM radio, etc.). 3. When the battery becomes weak, the remote control range becomes short. Vehicle construction and the surrounding environment cause reflected waves that may interfere with the low power RF signal transmitted by the remote control. This interference may result in "dead spots" around the vehicle; places where remote control signals will not be accepted by the main unit. Handling Remote Control Transmitter The remote control transmitter is a sophisticated electronic device. To maintain optimum system performance, avoid mishandling the remote control (i.e. dropping, throwing). Temperature Avoid exposing the remote control transmitter to extreme hot or cold weather conditions. Liquids Never submerge the Remote Control Transmitter in water. Battery Power Use the remote control transmitter only when necessary. Every time a button is pressed, the remote control is consuming battery power. If battery is low on power, the transmitting range of the remote will be affected. Check battery periodically and replace it when necessary. Outside Cleaning Use a soft cloth to clean the main unit and remote control. Do not use kerosene, thinner or any other type of solvent. Holding Ring The ring on the remote control transmitter is designed to attach the transmitter to the main key ring. To avoid damage to the transmitter, do not use this ring as the key ring to hold all keys. In Case of Loss If one of your remote control transmitters is ever lost, contact your local Honda dealer for a replacement. Your system will be reprogrammed to prevent the lost remote control transmitter from operating your system. In this case, take all the other remote control transmitters to have them reprogrammed. If you own extra remotes, bring it all to the dealer for reprogramming. Remote Control Transmitter Controls and Functions 1. LOCK Button When used alone this button arms the security system and locks* the doors. 2. UNLOCK Button This button disarms the security system and unlocks* the doors. When this button is pressed once, only the driver's door will unlock*. When this button is pressed a second time within 30 seconds, all the other doors unlock*. When the door(s) is unlocked, the interior light illuminates at the same time when the interior light switch is set at the door activated position (center). (For the 1996 Prelude, when this button is pressed once or twice, all doors will be unlocked.) Note: After disarm, the system will return (with no "beep") and relock* in 30 seconds if the doors or the trunk (or hood with an optional switch) are not opened. 3. OPTION Button When the OPTION button is pressed and held for more than one second, the hatch (or trunk) will unlock. (Functional only on the vehicles equipped with electrically driven unlock system using accessories for the glass hatch or trunk. For details, contact your Honda dealer.) 4. OPTION + LOCK When the OPTION button is pressed and held simultaneously with the LOCK button for more than 1 second, the confirmation "BEEP" feature is switched between on and off. The remote control indicator LED will flash once when the confirmation "BEEP" is turned on, and flash twice when the confirmation "BEEP" is turned off. 5. PANIC Button When this button is pressed and held for more than 1 second, the security system is set to the panic mode. The horn will sound for 30 seconds (or the optional siren will sound for 60 seconds) and the parking lights flash. To deactivate the panic mode, press the "LOCK", "UNLOCK" or "PANIC" button, or press and hold the "OPTION" button for more than 1 second. 6. Signal Indicator LED The LED will light when a remote control button is pushed and the remote control is transmitting a control signal. The LED indicates the remote control's battery condition. If the brightness of the LED dims, the battery should be replaced. The LED indicates when the "BEEP" on or "BEEP" off feature is switched. * On vehicles equipped with power door locks. Battery Replacement • The remote control transmitter requires one lithium battery (#CR2025). • After the battery is replaced, the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button must be pressed 6 times to make sure that the main unit recognizes the remote control transmitter. • After the batter is replaced the confirmation "BEEP" is reset to off. 1. To Open: Using a coin (Quarter) turn the battery cover counterclockwise and remove the cover from the back of the remote control. 2. The battery is located underneath the cover. 3. Remove the used battery. Make sure you install the new battery with the proper polarity. Notes: • Do not remove the rubber cushion ring. • If the Lithium battery is incorrectly placed (+ and – polarity), the Remote Control Transmitter can be damaged. 4. To Close: Replace the battery cover. Use a coin to turn it clockwise and lock the cover. Remote Control Code Programming How to Program Remote Control Transmitters • For steps 2 through 12, each step must be completed within 5 seconds. For step 13, within 10 seconds for each remote. • Up to four remotes can be stored in memory. • All remotes to be programmed must be on hand. • A non programmed remote will work for this procedure. • Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position to complete the programming procedure. 1. Disarm the security system. 2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" (II) position. 3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the remote control transmitter. 4. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" (0, I) position. 5. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. 6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the remote control transmitter. 7. Turn the ignition to the "OFF" position. 8. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. 9. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the remote control transmitter. 10. Turn the ignition to the "OFF" position. 11. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. 12. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the remote control transmitter. • The power door locks* cycle to indicate programming mode. The status LED illuminates simultaneously for 1 second. • To terminate the programming mode at this point, either turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position or leave the remote's button untouched for over 10 seconds. To program the remote, perform steps 2 through 12. 13. Press the "LOCK" button of each remote (one at a time) to be stored in memory. • The power door locks* cycle to confirm each entry. The status LED illuminates simultaneously for 1 second. • A button on each remote control transmitter to be programmed must be pressed. Perform the programming step within 10 second for each remote or else the programming mode will terminate. Note: Only 4 remotes can be stored in the system's memory. *On vehicles equipped with power door locks. System Controls Main Unit Switches Glass Breakage Detector Disarm/Valet Switch Arming Arming Methods Manual Arming (Remote Controlled) Auto Arming (Passive) Auto Arming and Locking (Passive) Alarm Mode Alarm Triggered Mode Disarming Disarming Methods There are two possible ways to disarm the system: • Remote Controlled Disarming • Disarm/Valet Switch Disarming Remote Controlled Disarming • Regardless of the method used to arm the system, the system can be disarmed using the remote control transmitter. • The system can be disarmed with or without confirmation "beep" depending on which remote mode is selected. (See Remote Control Transmitter section.) • When the system is disarmed, the system produces a beep sound 2 times if the alarm has not been triggered, however, produces a beep sound 3 times if the alarm has been triggered. Press the "UNLOCK" button once on the remote control transmitter and the following will occur: the remote control LED illuminates. • The security system disarms and the parking lights flash 2 times when the Alarm has not been triggered. If the alarm has been triggered, the parking lights flash 3 times to tell you the alarm has been triggered when the system is unlocked. • The driver's door unlocks*. (Pressing the "UNLOCK" button twice will unlock* all the doors). • The interior light illuminates for 30 seconds with the interior light switch is set at the door activated (center) position. Note: After disarm the system will return (with no "beep") and relock* in 30 seconds if the doors or the trunk (or hood) are not opened. * On vehicles equipped with power door locks. Disarm/Valet Switch Disarming (During Alarming) Disarming (During the Entry Delay Time) Panic Activating the Panic Function The horn or optional siren can be Intentionally activated by the remote control transmitter. This is convenient feature if you need to attract attention in case of an emergency. Press and hold the "PANIC" button for more than 1 second. The following will occur: 1. The horn sounds for 30 seconds (or the optional siren sounds for 60 seconds). 2. The parking lights flash during alarming duration. Deactivating the Panic Function To stop the horn or optional siren before the alarm duration time is up, press the "PANIC", "LOCK", or "UNLOCK" button momentarily or press and hold the "OPTION" button for more than 1 second. Valet (Auto/Auto Lock Mode) Placing the System in the Valet Mode When the security system is placed in the valet mode, it is temporarily placed on "hold". When in the valet mode, the system cannot be armed, but can still be panicked. This is a convenient feature if the car is to be washed, serviced, or valet parked. 1. Disarm the system 2. With the key out of the ignition, press and hold the Disarm/Valet switch for more than 3 seconds. 3. The Status LED will flash once, indicating that the system is in the Valet mode. Note: If a door is opened or the ignition key is removed while the system is in the valet mode, the Status LED will illuminate for 2 seconds as a reminder that the system is in the valet mode. Exit from the Valet Mode 1. With the system in the Valet mode and the key out of the ignition, press and hold the Disarm/Valet switch for more than 3 seconds. 2. The Status LED will flash twice, indicating that the system is out of the Valet mode. 3. The system is now in the Disarm mode. Tripped Sensor Warning and Indication Tripped Sensor Warnings • The system will warn you that the security system has been tripped in your absence. • If the system was tripped and auto rearmed you will observe the following: 1. The status LED flashes twice per second. 2. The system "beeps" 3 times when disarmed. (If "beep" on) 3. The parking lights flash 3 times when disarmed. Tripped Sensor Indication • After disarming the system, if the tripped sensor warning indicator appears, you can identify which sensor has been tripped by observing the number of flashes as shown below. With the key out of the ignition switch, press the Disarm/Valet switch 3 times in 5 seconds when the system was disarmed. The status LED will flash according to the sensors tripped. Note: The tripped sensor indication is reset when the system is armed or the ignition key is inserted (possible to recall). TRIPPED…………............STATUS LED SENSOR……….......NUMBER OF FLASHES Door……...................................1 Trunk…...........................…...…2 System Switches…...................3 Glass Breakage….....................4 Hood*……….............................5 Example 1: If opening the trunk causes the alarm to be triggered, the Status LED will flash 2 times, pause and repeat this sequence for 1 minute. Example 2: If the alarm is triggered twice, first by the opening the door and then by the opening of the trunk, the Status LED will flash once, pause, flash 2 times, pause and repeat this sequence for 1 minute. * If the optional hood switch is installed Last Tripped Sensor Recall • As a diagnostic tool, the last tripped sensor can be recalled from memory regardless of whether the system had been armed. • The Remote Control Transmitter is used for this function. • To recall the last tripped sensor follow this procedure: • The "LOCK" button must be pressed within 3 seconds of pressing the Disarm/Valet switch. 1. Sit inside the vehicle. All the doors and trunk must be closed. With the ignition key out of the ignition, press and hold the Disarm/Valet switch. 2. Press the "LOCK" button and then the "UNLOCK" button of the remote control transmitter. 3. Release the Disarm/Valet switch. The Status LED will indicate the last tripped sensor. Optional Items The Security System Accessories can be purchased at your Honda dealer. (Depending on the vehicle models, the installed accessories vary. For details, contact your Honda dealer.) To insure proper installation and operation, each accessory should be installed by your Honda dealer. Soft Chirp Siren Customize the sound of your Security System. *Only for the vehicles that have the installed accessory. Emits a soft "CHIRP" for remote control arming and disarming confirmation. Emits oscillating high frequency tones when the alarm is triggered. • The horn/siren selector switch of the main unit must be set to siren for the siren to operate. • The confirmation horn "BEEP" will be changed to a siren "CHIRP". Hood Switch For added protection of your Honda vehicle. *Only for the vehicles that have the installed accessory. The hood switch will trigger the alarm when the hood is opened. • When the hood switch is installed the hood must be closed for the security system to arm. Remote Control Transmitter Additional remote control transmitter scan be added to your system. Up to four remote control transmitters can operate one vehicle. Glossary Word: Description Alarm Duration: The amount of time the horn or optional siren sounds when the alarm is tripped or the panic feature is activated. The duration is 30 or 60 seconds for the horn or siren respectively. Arm: To turn the security system's protection on. *Auto Lock Arming: The optional mode in which the security system is armed automatically (passively) after the trunk and all doors (and hood) are closed. At the same time the system arms, the doors also lock. *Automatic Arming: The optional mode in which the security system is armed automatically (passively) after the trunk and all the doors are closed. The doors do not lock when the system is armed. Manual Arming: The mode in which the system is armed and disarmed by the remote control transmitter. This is the factory preset mode. Disarm: To turn the security system's protection off. *Entry Delay Time: The amount of time before the alarm is triggered after the door is opened. *Exit Delay Time: When the system is set to the Automatic or Auto Lock Arming Positions, the amount of time before the system arms after the trunk and all the doors are closed. Extended Exit Arming: If a door or trunk is opened during the exit delay time, the timer ill reset itself and will restart the count down procedure when that door or trunk is closed. Panic: A mode in which the horn or optional siren are intentionally activated. Useful for attracting attention case of an emergency. Relock: A feature where the system rearms itself and locks the doors 30 seconds after being disarmed by the remote control transmitter. This feature is disabled if any of the doors, the trunk, or hood is opened during the 30 second time period. Sensor Cancellation: A feature which cancels (ignores) a particular sensor which has caused the alarm to be tripped consecutively for 10 minutes. Tripped Sensor Indication: A feature which indicates, through the status LED, the sensor which tripped the alarm. Last Tripped Sensor Recall: A diagnostic feature which recalls the last tripped sensor from memory. This feature is not disabled once the alarm is rearmed. Tripped Sensor Warning: A feature which tells the owner that the alarm was tripped in his/her absence. *Valet: A mode in which the system cannot auto-arm or re-lock. Useful when the car is being service, valet parked, or washed. The remote control transmitter won't arm or disarm the system in valet mode, but panic feature will work in valet mode. * Functional only in the Automatic Arming and Auto Locking/Arming modes.