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James Matteu

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Everything posted by James Matteu

  1. If it comes from Honda's distribution center in Atlanta, GA; then they get it Tuesday, July 15, 2008. If it has to come from the Kentucky? distribution center, then it will likely take another week to be received.
  2. I dropped $193.55 ($189.60 + $3.95 s&h) for the Honda system. My order goes out today and should be in by next Tuesday. I suspect it may take up to two weeks to be received at the dealership, then they mail it to me. I am so excited. Total money spent: $195.05
  3. Yes, if something goes wrong, turn the car off. The Seat Heater Main Relay controls voltage going to the Seat Heater Switch, which controls voltage going to the Seat Heater Relay, which controls voltage going to the Seat Heaters. The Seat Heater Main Relay gets its voltage from C909 and C909 is hot only in the ON ignition position, so the Seat Heaters see 15A when both a) the ignition is in the ON position and b) the Seat Heater Switch is closed. So if something goes wrong, I turn the car off.
  4. Well I wired everything... Then tidied up... Only to test the Heaters and find that one of them is a dud; the one that had the wires cut (big surprise). I have to trouble shoot this before installing it in the driver's seat, the passenger side is in and there is no more wiring to be done behind the dash. I can really feel the heat, which I am sure I will appreciate more fully in winter. I will keep you guys up to date. Bump on the instructions, they are almost finished.
  5. Okay, new plan. I got the 6G Accord wiring schematics, and that security system uses a combination of the optional attachment and multiplexing units. There are three units that work with the security attachment. Since the security attachment would set me back a pretty penny as it is, I am not going to rewire my door locks to accept this newer system. I will just have to come up with something cleaver for the trunk. On the upside, I got a CR-V unit for less than $200.00 and this is the same unit that would have come with my car as an OEM option, only the harness and relays are different. Crazy isn't it, but it has been here since October 2007.
  6. My plan is to use the 1998-2000 Accord Security System and open the harness to wire it into my system. I am searching for a pinout of the Security Main Wire Harness, if anyone can help, please do! I lieu of an OEM trunk release, I will use an after market type and extend the cable using bicycle brake line. My job is to interface the aftermarket deal with the OEM system (not a problem). So far I have the micro switch that when rivetted onto my hood latch turns my hood latch into: Security Hood Switch: Honda P/N 08E49-S84-100G On H&A I can get for $242.40: Security System: 08E51-S84-100 Main Wire Harness: 08E51-S84-10001 Security Sub-wire Harness: 08E51-S84-10002 And on H&A I can get for $18.00: Security Option Harness: 08E57-S84-100 I just have to get the generic trunk opener and decipher the pinouts on the OEM security system.
  7. I think I may have a solution to this problem! The 1994-95 Civic has a Passenger Door Grip that has an uncanny resemblance to Accord Driver Door Grip. The Civic grip cup has similar dimensions, the grip and switch are separated by beveled line just like in the Accord, and the window switch sits in a small depression just like in the Accord. The switches on both even look identical. The problem is that I haven't found the right color, the Civic did come with a tan interior, but the door grips were brown, not taupe or beige. So now I am searching for a way to change the color. Perhaps someone can help point me in the right direction. Does anyone know how to change the color of automotive PVC without painting? I would like to dye them, but need to know how to bleach them back to white first. I think the color can be applied with Rite dye (according to a few sources on the internet regarding PVC dying.
  8. Alright, got some batteries. Here are some before after for the kids. Here is the gang I pulled from the bone yard. Check out the years of spilt drinks and the wires hanging out of the one at the bottom. I had to hold the wires in the right position before using this to put some new fabric, nothing a little Elmer's can't handle. Ready for new fabric! Looks great! They all look great! And they don't smell or feel like they are about to fall apart.
  9. Putting this in my sedan has become such a huge problem, see below. I think I can get the locks into the door, but I cannot be sure until I can get a complete lockset from the CL into my sedan and see what needs to be changed. I may need to create a door card top and then have a custom shop glue new vinyl pad to it (more money), but I cannot even decide what do until I have the complete lock set. Problem is, I am out of parts. The two CLs I have been stripping down over the past month don't have anything I can use. I have to find another bone yard with CLs. Edit: I will probably go back this Saturday to grab the Acura Homelink® System from the CL, while I am there I will probably take what they do have: - two Inside Handles - one Inside Handle Trim - one or two Door Lock Switch Assembly - all Lock Knob Rods for one side I removed all the above and became discouraged when I was having trouble checking fitment in another 1996 Accord they have in the same lot, so I left everything in that car, it should still be there next weekend.
  10. I need batteries for my camera. The heaters I bought were in really bad shape. I am drying them out right now (I had to soak them with Febreeze). I bought some fabric at Walmart, I will reposition the wires with some thread and then use upholstery glue to recover the wires. Also, someone yanked out the security system in the car I pulled the parts from, this pulled the element wire out of the thermoswitch, I have to repair that and check connectivity before I install. I should have instructions and pictures up by next weekend.
  11. How to put these: in your car and for them to actually do somthing other than fill a hole in the console. Parts: New Parts: Clips: Honda P/N 91566-SP0-003 These clips will likely break in the process of removing the Seat Cover, buy 4 from your local dealership. Used Parts Source: 1997-99 Acura 2.2/2.3/3.0 CL Premium or otherwise equiped with heated seats Connections: Connection 255 (C255) - this is under the engine bay fuse box Option Connector (a/k/a Rear Window Defogger Coil Connection B for Acura CLs, a/k/a C525 for Accords), see below. The brown connector with one wire coming out. Whenever you disconnect any of the following components, keep both the connector and some wire Relays: Left Heated Seat Unit, Mitsuba Heated Seat Relay RZ-0054 ($165.03) Acura P/N 38536-SS8-A81 Right Heated Seat Unit, Mitsuba Heated Seat Relay RZ-0054 ($165.03) Acura P/N 38536-SF1-S01 4P Power Relay Assembly, Mitsuba RC-2201 ($38.00) Acura P/N 39797-SE0-004 Switches: #17 Heated Seat (TEC) Switch Assembly ($60.65) Acura P/N 38535-SM4-S01 Heaters: Right Front Seat-Back Heater ($226.80) Acura P/N 81124-SS8-A81 Right Front Seat Cushion Heater ($212.63) Acura P/N 81134-SS8-A81 Left Front Seat-Back Heater ($206.07) Acura P/N 81524-SS8-A81 Left Front Cushion Heater ($133.78) Acura P/N 81534-SS8-A81 Total List Price: $1268.64 (1998-99 switches) I sourced all the above from my local salvage yard for $25.60. Special Tool: Hog Ring Pliers: Installation Part One: Battery to Seats Connection Nomenclature 101 As you should have seen above, Honda labels each connection with a letter C and a number. Each ground is labeled in a similar fashion, with a G supplanting the C. The Acura manuals do not always number the connections or grounds, and the naming system varies by location in the vehicle. Colors Honda uses the following abbreviations for the colors they use to identify their wires, so will I: BLK………...black BLU………...blue BRN………...brown GRN………..green GRY………..gray LT BLU……light blue LT GRN……light green ORN………..orange PNK………...pink PUR………...purple RED………...red WHT………..white YEL…………yellow When I refer to a wire, the first color listed for a particular wire is the color of the wire, the second color is the color of the stripe running down the length of the wire. In the photo immediately below, there is a BLU/RED wire, an ORN/BLK wire, and a ground wire, the black wire. Now we can continue with the procedure. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE PROCEEDING 1. Fuse 22: Remove the cover on the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box. Remove C921, it's the one on the far right that has wires coming out of it. Unbolt (8mm)/Unscrew (Philips) the Alternator and Battery cables from the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box. Remove the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box. On my Accord, there was only one 10mm bolt in the front of the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box and tabs in the back, but in Service Manual P/N 61SV405, the same Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box is shown with three bolts securing the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box. Either way, remove the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box and disconnect the 4 connectors under the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box, next we will add a fifth, see the photo below. Plug in C255 in the fifth spot under Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box, see photo directly above. Prepare one 1.5m aliquot of 18 AWG wire. Route the wire through the grommet directly beneath the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box by using a PaperMate ball point pen. I.e.: remove the tip/ink cartridge, cut approximately 1 cm from the opposite end of the pen to create a hard plastic cylinder that is open at both ends. Remove any burs or sharp edges. Spray the pen cylinder with some silicone spray. Push the pen cylinder through the grommet to the cabin side, and then pass the aliquot of wire through the cylinder. The wire will fall down behind the Blower Assembly Housing. You may need to reach up behind Blower Assembly Housing and grab the wire. Pull the pen cylinder from the grommet, leaving the wire behind. Solder and shrink-wrap the wire aliquot to C255. Pull on the wire from the cabin side to adjust the length of wire leading to C255. Replace any electrical tape removed and then reinstall the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box. Insert a 15A fuse into the Fuse #22 spot. 2. Fuse 7: Solder and shrink wrap a 1m aliquot of 20 AWG wire to the option connection (a/k/a C525), see below. Plug C525 into C909 on the Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box. Route this wire to the Center Console. 3. Rear Console removal: Cup holder first, then the little door (or CD holder) under the arm rest. Remove 3 screws (not the two that were directly beneath the cup holder), and then pull up and back (toward the rear seats). The console should come right out. 4. Front Console Panel/Contents removal: Take out your ash tray, then remove 3 screws and pull back and up. There are 6 retainer clips holding the front console in; if the metal part pops off, pull it out and slide it back on the Front Console Panel. Once the panel is removed, loosen the two screws holding the radio/pocket bracket. The stereo/pocket should come loose, now unplug the DIN, Antenna Lead, and C444. 5. Front Console removal: Remove the Steering Column Lower Cover. Open the Glove Box, insert a quarter into the right side slot and turn counter-clockwise (the peg should come out), pull up on the tab on the left and remove that peg. The glove box should drop down. Remove the 6 screws holding the Front Console in: 2 black screws on the left (they were covered by the Steering Column Lower Cover), 2 black screws on the right (they were covered by the Glove Box), 2 silver screws in the middle (they were covered by the Front Console Panel). 6. Seat Heater Main Relay: There are 4 places for relays inside the Center Console, pic one of these spots (there should be two available). 1 WHT/BLK - C255 2 YEL/BLK - C909 3 BLK/GRN - there are two wires here, one for each Seat Heater Switch 4 BLK - Ground, crimp a loop onto the end of the black wire and bolt to the metallic Center Console support 7. Seat Heater Switches: Each Seat Heater Switches is to be wired in the exact same way, I will describe the wiring for one of the two Seat Heater Switches, see first photo. 1 BLK - G403 2 Empty 3 RED - run a wire to the RED wire on the defogger switch 4 WHT/BLK or WHT/GRN - Seat Heater Relay, pin 6 5 RED/BLK - run a wire to the RED/BLK wire on the defogger switch 6 BLK/GRN - Seat Heater Main Relay, pin 3 Run the wire coming from pin 4 under the carpet and out through the vent opening under the seats. 8. Reinstall the: Front Console, Front Console Panel, and Rear Console; in the reverse order as listed above. Installation Part Two: the Seats Wiring The harnesses should be entact from the donor CL; if not, I have also included a pin out below. Seat Heater Relay: Each Seat Heater Relay is to be wired in the exact same way, I will describe the wiring for one of the two Seat Heater Relays. 1 Positive for Seat Cushion Heater high switch 2 Empty 3 G531 4 Negative for the Seat Back Heater 5 Positive for Seat Cushion Heater low switch 6 Positive from Fuse 22 via Seat Heater Main Relay and Seat Heater Switches Seat Cushion Heater: WHT - Seat Heater Relay, pin 1 ORN/BLK - Seat Heater Relay, pin 5 BRN - G531 BLU - C2, pin 1 Seat Back Heater (C2): 1 BLK - connects with BLU from Seat Cushion Heater 2 BLU - Seat Heater Relay, pin 4 1. Seat Removal: Remove the headrest. Slide the seat backward. Remove the Seat Track End Covers, and then remove the two 14mm bolts. Slide the seat forward. Remove the Seat Track End Covers, and then remove the two 14mm bolts. Lift the seat backwards and disconnect any connectors you already have there. Remove the seat through the front door opening. 2. Seat Back Cover Removal: Remove the Back Cover by pulling up on the bottom of the Back Cover and then down to unhook the top of the Back Cover. Given the age of all 5th Gen Accords, the two clips (P/N 91566-SP0-003) at the bottom will likely snap off in the process of removing the Back Cover. Remove all Plastic Hooks, Inside Springs, and Hog Rings. Save the Hog Rings for the re-installation of the Seat-Back Cover. Turn the Seat-Back Cover inside out, at this point, the Seat-Back Cover is only held in place by the Headrest Guides. Move on to step 4 and then come back to step 3. 3. Seat Cushion Cover Removal: Remove the Recline Knob. Remove the Cap from the Recline Cover. Remove the two Philips head screws. Remove the Recline Cover. Remove the two Bracket Cover Philips head screws, remove the Bracket Cover. Remove the four 14mm bolts from the Inner Seat Track, and then separate the Seat Cushion from the Seat Track. Remove all Plastic Hooks, Inside Springs, and Hog Rings. Save the Hog Rings for the re-installation of the Seat Cushion Cover. Turn the Seat Cushion Cover inside out and separate it from the foam and metal seat frame. Continue on to step 4 and then proceed to step 5, step 6, etc. 4. Heater installation: The donor CL had the Heaters attached to the leather covers with the type of plastic tag you find attached to a new article of clothing holding a paper where the size or price is listed. I used a heavy duty needle in conjunction with thread used for sewing weave onto braids. If your female significant other recently switched to dreadlocks, then you too may have lots of hair weave products lying around. Otherwise, I would suggest using regular thread; just make sure you double up the thread. Make room for the springs by cutting between the wires in the Heater, see below. Then sew the Heaters onto the Cover, see below. 5. Seat Back Cover Installation: Pull the leather back down around the foam. With some pliers, pull the springs through the holes in the foam and re-install them as you found them. Use two standard pliers to straighten out the hog rings. Then situate the hog ring in the hog ring plier with the open end facing out. Grab two support rods, and while holding the rods close together, bend the hog ring around them by squeezing the hog ring pliers. The hog ring might look oblong at this point. Rotate the ring so that you can give it a second squeeze with the hog ring pliers, the hog ring should be circular now. Smooth the Cover by hand, then snap all the plastic Hooks back into place. 6. Seat Cushion Cover Installation: Situate the foam and metal frame as they will be in the seat, start with the Seat Cushion Cover inside out, and pull the Seat Cushion Cover down around the foam and frame. With some pliers, pull the springs through the holes in the foam and re-install them as you found them. Use two standard pliers to straighten out the hog rings. Then situate the hog ring in the hog ring pliers with the open end facing out. Grab two support rods at a time and while holding them close together, bend the hog ring around them by squeezing the hog ring pliers. The hog ring might look oblong at this point. Rotate the ring so that you can give it a second squeeze with the hog ring pliers, the hog ring should be circular now. Smooth the Seat Cushion Cover by hand, and then snap all the plastic Hooks back into place. 7. Seat Installation: Place the seat in the car through the front door opening. Lift the seat backwards and plug in all connectors, including the new 2 pin Seat Heater connection. Replace the four 14mm bolts. You may need to have someone help you adjust the Inner and Outer Seat Track in order to line them up with the attachment points inside the cabin. Replace the three Seat Track End Covers. Finally, reinstall the Headrest. Other: Reasons for adding Honda OEM seats from an Acura CL: 1. $26 versus $160+ for aftermarket heaters of unknown quality 2. 5G Accords were born for this upgrade (see C255 in your engine bay fuse box) 3. Heated seats are cool. How it works: The main relay only receives 12V at 7.5A when the ignition key is in the ON position. With the key in the ON position, the dash switches are able to switch on the two under seat relays which provide 12V at 15A to the heating elements. The heating elements get hot since the 12V at 15A comes in from the battery via 18AWG wire, where the heating elements themselves are wired with 24 or 26 AWG. Resistance is a function of the specific resistivity (a/k/a rho) of a material and its size; a copper wire 1mm wide will have less resistance than a copper wire 0.5mm wide. As current passes through a material with greater resistance, the material gets hotter. Imagine a bottle of water with a hole in it; imagine you keep filling the bottle to top it off as it drains through the hole. The water is the electrons coming from the battery; your topping off the bottle is the 15A the battery supplies to the circuit. The hole is the resistor (the seat heaters), and the water (the electrons) rubbing the edges of the hole as they leave the bottle creates the heat felt in the seat heaters when they are switched on. Other Applications: If someone where to wire in a 15A fusible link from the battery, and collect other materials found in any Acura or Honda with heated seats, I think it is possible to put Honda OEM Heated Seats in any Honda, for $26.
  12. When I had the dash out I was trimming and tucking wires I had down there. One that was annoying me was the wire I ran for the foglight switch. The wire was too long and at the time I had lost my soldering iron, so was not able to shorten it properly. So when I did the dash swap, I cut the offending length of wire and soldered it back together. Then I put it inside a small length of 0.25 inch corrugated tubing (loom). The problem was that I secured the loom to the female connection with electrical tape, so when I went to zip tie the wire to another harness, I pulled the male connection out without realizing it. All I did was remove the tape, plug the male back into the female, then put the tubbing back on. This time, no zip tie. I've got my foglights back. Today I am going to call around to see what bone yard have CL's with full door cards. The one I have been getting parts from has one door card in my color and it is missing everything else, the door handles are missing, rods, locking mechanism. The door swap instructions will help those with coupes, even though the card is a direct swap, the lock to latch distance is different. As always, the instructions will be in the first post.
  13. I did some testing tonight. I used the Accord dash since nobody has come by to pick it up. I used some heat to try and soften the PVC, all it did was burn and let off dioxins. I was able to cut the PVC, although the hacksaw I was using has a blade with low tooth count, so it kept catching on the plastic and snaping it apart. I did successfully use some rivets to rejoin a peice of the dash I cut in two by using another peice of PVC from behind as a joint. The joint snapped at one point. I am going to have to use a sheet of aluminum to join the peices. The good news is that the head of the rivet cannot be seen when covered by the vinyl pad. I am starting to realize why custom shops just use wood, it is probably alot easier. Well, at this point, worst case senario, I should be able to make the peice out of a hodge-podge of aluminum and PVC. I will keep you guys up to date. If anyone can post a link showing how to put the top part of a 5G Accord coupe door card in a 5G Accord sedan, please post it here. Thanks.
  14. LOL, I just found my instructions copied in another forum. I think I figured out a cheap way to do the doors, I have more research to do, but will post instructions afterwards for others to follow, this way anyone can get the right look. If you have a coupe the CL door panels swap right in with minimal modification to the door handle.
  15. Thanks!! Should someone post a link from Honda-Tech to HF so people can find this information? I was thinking of joining Gen5 Alive to post a link from there to here. There's a guy there doing this swap, but he did it (or still doing it) in the most difficult/expensive way possible, and it took him months to complete (if he ever did complete it). I kinda want to keep HF the only forum I am a member of. You know, if someone can find a CL in the bone yard and pay what I did for parts, without the faux wood center console panel, this swap only sets you back only $157.93.
  16. Well that was fun. 22 hours: starting at 1pm Saturday and finishing at 2pm on Sunday; I slept from 4:40am Sunday to 7:40am Sunday. It should be quicker for someone to follow in my foot steps, I double checked everything as I went along and took pictures here and there while taking notes. Everything looks good, you can check out the pics in the first post; I finished the installation instructions. While I was under the dash, I did some restoration, I think the air comes out with greater force because of this. I disconnected something sending power to the foglights, I will check it out next weekend. 804
  17. I was pleasantly suprised to see the Evaporator Unit already has a notch in the side for the CL's thermistor. In fact, the place where the CL's thermistor would go is where the Accord's thermistor is now. I would like to find out if the thermistor the Accord uses is the same as the thermistor that the CL uses, but I don't think my multimeter can put out 12v, <10mA, to check for resistance, but I will verify that first. If both vehicles use the same resistor in their thermistors, then the swap is even easier in that one would only need to cut off the transistor in the Accord and hard wire the existing thermistor into the climate control.
  18. I was pleasantly suprised to see the Heater Unit already has the mounting locations for installing the aspirator and aspirator hose. I put up the wiring pin-outs and wiring instructions, the rest of the installation instructions is soon to come along with pics of the install when I gidder done this weekend.
  19. Tonight, I received the books I ordered the other day. I worked non-stop to arrange the re-wire instructions, I will post them along with a pin-out diagram once I have completed everything and assured the system is in working order. On a side note: Anyone have any idea what to do with a wire that is hot in the ON key position with 12V at 7.5A? I don't need it and I am not sure of the best way to isolate the wire; if your curious as to why I don't need it, keep reading. The Accord uses a thermistor wired to a transistor (a bipolar junction transistor, NPN) to thermally regulate the compressor function. The CL uses a thermistor wired to a computer to do the same job. The Accord's thermistor needs an additional voltage source to run the transistor, since I will not be using a transistor, I will also not be needing the additional voltage source. Edit: I found a home for this wire, I am using it to power the relay.
  20. According to Carol at the Florida Department of Motor Vehicles, Jacksonville Office: Florida statute allows the removal of the dash mounted VIN tag from the new dash so that the correct tag from my vehicle can be installed in its place. Rivets are recommended but not required.
  21. Today I snatched the hood sensor off a 1999 Acura CL 3.0 Premium. The thing was riveted on the hood latch, it's a microswitch that is closed when the hood lever is pulled. The same switch is used on the 5G Accord's OEM security Hood Sensor option.
  22. Turns out the 1G Acura CLs did have keyless entry with trunk opener as either standard equipment or an option (depending on if it's a 2.2, 2.3, or 3.0). Unfortunately, there is no way to open a CL trunk with a key. The rod the conects to the key cylinder on the Accord, does not exist on all CLs that I have seen. To get around that discrepancy, the CL trunk release assembly could be adapted to accept a rod by drilling in the arm that is connected to the electric motor on the CL trunk release assembly. Then the main problem would be that the CL trunk release assembly still does not fit in the Accord. The space occupied by the Accord trunk release is very tight, relative to the CL. The Accord seems to have a smaller space largely in part to a bulge that resides behind the 5G Accord license plates. Removing the depression or altering the design of the trunk is not something I want to do since I believe the engineers at Honda put a great deal of thought (hopefully) into how the trunk lid and rear section of my car should collapse in an accident; another reason not to get a CF trunk lid IMO. If someone still wanted to use the CL trunk release, the trunk springs from the CL would have to be swapped in to handle the extra weight of the trunk release motor and any sheet metal work that would need to be done to make room for the assembly. I did cut a section of sheet metal out of the trunk lid of an Accord DX to test for fitment (in the boneyard), the CL does fit in the proper manner, making it the closest donor match to date. My search continues.
  23. For $124.00 I got the following parts groups (group total list price), see above for the part numbers in each group: Dash Temperature Sensor ($47.45) Consol Temperature Sensor ($266.16) A/C Core Temperature Sensor ($23.02) Climate Control Buttons/Display ($893.83) Ventilation & Plumbing ($252.05, less the Passenger Side Outlet Assembly) Blower Control ($154.60) CL Dash ($917.41) CL Cruise Control Switch ($56.15) Heated Seat Switches, qty. 2 ($126.08x2) Acura P/N 38535-SS8-A01 and I cut each pigtail from the Dashboard Harness ($771.68) Yippee! I saved $3,510.51, and I didn't have to switch to GEICO. The heated seat switch is for a future project, I just thought I would get them today. I also forgot to grab the switch for the heated mirrors (another future project). I was running late (I had to still come to work today), so I didn't have time to swap out the driver and passenger ducts for better looking ones. I am still contemplating the effort to do that or just fix the ones I have or buy new ones. I also didn't have time to grab the external sensor or see if there was anything left of it (both CLs were hit from the front and behind). The one I got the dash from was side-swiped too, which is why the ducts were broken where they attach and why the Passenger Side Outlet Assembly was busted. I will have to find another Outlet Assembly or just pick one up at the dealership. The door panels wasted alot of my time. The door panels could be reshaped to fit, but I found out that they are not fiberglass, rather they are PVC. The reshaping would involve heating the plastic, which releases toxic dioxins, which is why Honda doesn't use PVC in their interiors anymore (since the manufacturing process releases these dioxins as well). Even if I did reshape the door panels, the lock system on the CL coupe is designed differently compared to the Accord and would take a significant amount of time to adapt to my sedan, I felt that I was beginning to digress; on to plan B. Plan B: I will learn to live with dash not seeming to "flow" with the look of the doors, or paint the faux wood trim to match the dash color. Even if the trim is painted, the contours of the dash will not flow with the doors. I would like to keep the wood, since I do LIKE the faux wood, it is something I can tackle at a later date, so for now, it waits. I plugged in the CL's Roof Switch Assembly (Acura P/N 35830-SY8-A01) in place of my Accord switch and was able to control the moonroof without any problems. No alterations were needed, the switch even uses the same plug .
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