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James Matteu

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Everything posted by James Matteu

  1. I just got a PS3 slim 320gb. DopplerRedShift I'm addicted to Gran Turismo 5. I've had it less than a month and have gold trophied my way through A-spec and now hang in the lobby trying to learn to drift and dial in my suspension for all stability assists off except ABS. I'm still looking for a 1st gen CRX.
  2. I didn't say anything about the rails. You would have to check that out yourself, I just pulled the guts and left the seats behind.
  3. The M a t s u s h i t a CQ-JH1610Z (Honda P/N 39100-SV4-A500) was optional equipment for the USDM 1994-97 Honda Accord DX, LX, and EX; but standard on the 1997 Honda Accord Special Edition. The M a t s u s h i t a CQ-JH0712Z (Acura P/N 39100-SY8-A010) came standard on the 1997-99 Acura CL with a BOSE version being the option. The removal procedure may apply to other Honda Single Disc CD Players with a Single-shaft Rotary Switch type Knob. I bought the Acura CQ-JH0712Z off a 1998 Acura CL 2.3 Base in the salvage yard. The unit had problems from day one: the outputs all had severe static and the internal amplifier was slow to warm up, it would start at a whisper and then slowly the volume would rise on its own no matter what I did with the volume knob. I bought a Honda replacement from Craigslist and it had no power problems, but the knob had a bad wiper: I would turn the knob to raise the volume and it go down; I had to turn the knob slowly in order to get it to function. So I had a bad Acura radio with a good Acura knob and a bad Honda knob on a good Honda radio. Tools Instructions Step 1. Remove the radio. Step 2. Using the Phillips head screw driver, unscrew the face by removing the two Face Screws on the sides of the CD Player. Step 3. Using the straight-slot screw driver, Pry the face off by starting on one side and working your way around the CD Player. Use gentle pressure and complete the prying in several steps; i.e. do not pry the left side off all at once, give it a little nudge and then keep moving around. Step 4.1. Remove the knob. Step 4.2. Unscrew the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) from the face. Step 4.3. Remove the PCB from the face by both pushing on the A.SEL/RPT button and the black face tab behind the A.SEL/RPT button so that the PCB will clear the tap shown below. The knob looks like many of the 12mm Rotary Encoder Switches I have been finding on the internet for ~$2 each but I don't know enough about the one in the CD Player to find an appropriate replacement. The switch knob is soldered into the PCB, and cannot be simply unplugged, the solder must be sucked off before a new switch knob can be soldered in place. I swapped the entire face PCB from the Acura CD Player, knob and all. Works perfectly. Reassembly Step 5. Perform Step 4 in reverse. Step 6. Push the face back onto the CD Player, it will snap in place. Step 7. Perform step 2 in reverse. Step 8. Perform step 1 in reverse.
  4. I've seen too many CRXs and DelSols walk these things on YouTube. I have lost all respect.
  5. Time to re-rebuild my PS Pump

  6. The forum doesn't like my use of folders in Photobucket, and it changed M a t s u s h i t a into Matsucrapa, hence the spaces. Anyways, I moved the photos and fixed the first post. I have been here, I do more viewing these days than anything else.
  7. M a t s u s h i t a CQ-LH1410S Rotary Switch Knob Removal The M a t s u s h i t a CQ-LH1410S (Honda P/N 39100-SV4-A000) was the stock head unit that came on my 1997 Honda Accord EX-V6. The removal procedure may apply to other Honda units with a Single-shaft Rotary Switch type Knob. My Switch Knob started to loose its ability to switch the head unit off. The ALPS website lists the longevity of some of their switches as being 15,000 cycles. I guess switching the head unit off everytime I went to turn the car off was a habit that put some additional wear on the Switch Knob . Tools Instructions Note: Keep track of which screws go where, they vary in length and are organized by the fastener's ability to impact other components within the head unit. Step 1. Remove the radio. Step 2. Remove the top cover by prying up on it at the points shown below. Step 3.1. Remove the bottom cover by first removing screw numbers one and two shown below. Step 3.2. Now pry the bottom cover off at the points shown below. Step 4. Remove the back cover by removing the: Left Connector screw (LC), Right Connector screw (RC), Left CD Changer Connector screw (LCHG), Right CD Changer Connector screw (RCHG), and screw number three; all shown below. Step 5. Remove the left cover by removing the: Heat Sink screw (HS), Left Face screw (LF), and screw numbers four and five. Pry the bottom of the face first, the left cover is hooked at the top and will need to swing up to come out; pry the top of the face second to get the cover free from the unit. Step 6.1. Remove the right cover by first removing the Antenna screw (Ant). Step 6.2. Now remove the: Right Face screw (RF), and screw numbers six and seven. Pry the Face at the bottom then top to release the right cover in a similar method as used on the left cover. Step 7.1. GENTLY remove the knobs from the unit. Step 7.2. The Face is only held at the top. To remove the Face, pry at the three points shown below. Careful, the Face has three connectors at the bottom and the circuit board where all the buttons are attached is only loosely held to the black plastic. Step 8. Remove the Cassette Player by removing the Cassette Player's: Left-Front (CPLF), Right-Front (CPRF), Left-Rear (CPLR), and Right-Rear (CPRR) screws; and unplugging the Cassette Player's side-connector. The screws holding the Cassette Player in were torqued down really tight, I pressed the precision phillips screw driver down while holding the shaft with the pliers to exert sufficient torque to break them free. I also used the pliers to pull the connector from its plug. Be careful with the Cassette Player's back-connector, it would not come free for me and pulling on it seemed to stress the circuit board below. Step 9.1. Remove the Knob-Switch by first removing the Knob Switch screw (KS) located on the front of the unit. Step 9.2. Now pry the Knob-Switch away from its connector. Now you have removed the Knob Switch. The marking on the back of mine says "ALPS" "JAPAN", the top has "503", "6", and "XV". The board it is mounted on may actually have been purchased by M a t s u s h i t a from another manufacturer. A few websites say that M a t s u s h i t a is actually a subsidiary of Panasonic, and they do share a similar format for product numbers. The Knob Switch is a rotary potentiometer with dual resistor units and a single side tap. By inspecting the Switch Knob and reviewing the ALPS website, I have noted the following: Manufacturer: ALPS Electric Co., Ltd. Part No.: ? Switch Type: Single-shaft with rotary switch type Shaft Length: 25mm Mounting Direction: Horizontal Type I have tried to search their database for a simillar switch, but have had no luck. Even if I found it, they list an order unit as being 500-800 switches. I think the next time I am in the salvage yard I will tear into a few head units and pull the switches out. Re-assembly Step 10. Perform step 9 in reverse. Step 11. Perform step 8 in reverse. Use the pliers to re-connect the Cassette Player. Step 12. Perform steps 6 and 5 in reverse. Step 13. Perform step 4. Remember, there is a single threaded hole to the top-right of the back cover that is used for a CD Changer Cable Hold that was not shown above; leave this hole empty. Step 14. Perform steps 3 and 2 in reverse. Step 15. Perform step 7 in reverse. Step 16. Perform step 1 in reverse. Thanks for reading, this thread goes to show that we can all benefit when I am bored.
  8. Here is a wiring diagram of the setup. The red connections are wires that are not found in a US Accord wiring harness and must be added; the easiest way to do this is to use the extra wires from the Accord harness and run new wires where running a new wire is necessary. My instructions follow this meathod. Yes, only 13 new wires to have digital climate control.
  9. Yipee! I just snagged the Rear Foglight, Bracket, Wiring, Switch, and Trim for $120.00. My chap in the UK pulled it off another Honda in the salvage yard. Saweeeeeet!
  10. Well, it's all done. The major source of problems came from not knowing how to deal with the relays that came with the CR-V Attachment Kit given the CR-V relays are different than the Accord relays in their respective Attachment Kits. The last issue that I resolved a few minutes ago was the Door Switch Input and Ceiling Light Control, I had them reversed. I just switched the pins on the 22-pin GRN connection to the Security Control Unit and now everything functions as it should. I have decided to write the instructions in the first post based on what I have learned rather than documenting what I have done. For instance, I only grabed connections for the Door Harness, but in hine sight it would have been easier to pull the entire upper door harness from another Accord to simply make changes to it and swap it out for the harness in my car. I will work on the write-up later, I'm exhausted and glad this is finished. Now if I can only figure out how to add an immobilizer daughter board to my ECU mother board.
  11. I'm such a noob, the doors wouldn't lock 'cause the trunk was still open. The system is designed to not arm if any of the doors or trunk are open. So I get put my door back together today. Yipee!
  12. I reviewed the CR-V wiring diagram and realized that I had the relay hooked up really wrong. I feel stupid for thinking the CR-V relay could supplant the Accord relay and be wired in the same way an Accord relay is. So I divided the lock/unlock input and wired them to make a closed circuit when the relay is in it's normally closed position. I got the Fuse #38 to stop blowing, but now I can only unlock the doors, I cannot lock them and the relay does not function as it should. I interupted the connection to the key hole in the door switch. The driver's side door should open by pressing unlock, then by holding down unlock, the rest of the doors should open. When I press the unlock button (not holding it down), all the doors unlock, this should not be happening. I rechecked the switch on the door, I the doors function properly, so the Control Unit in the door is functional. I'm just happy the fuse doesn't blow. I will figure this out, but if anyone can help me get there faster, the help is appreciated.
  13. This morning I realized what this is, I was working on the car at around 12 midnight and didn't want to upset my neighbors, so I switched the Security Control Unit from Horn to Siren (and I have no Siren hooked up). This must have been the alarm going off. I have to figure out why it was doing this.
  14. I tried to use the CR-V relay to run the Door Lock Control Unit and blew through three 20 amp fuses 'till I accepted that it was the way I was using the relay. So I removed the Mitsuba 725 relay :sad: , so no keyless entry for now. I need a Honda double pole relay, one that will unlock the driver's door with a little voltage and unlock all the doors with more voltage. I have another problem, I'm not getting voltage to the Security Starter Cut Relay and the Security System was acting strange when it first powered up. As far as the Starter Cut Relay goes: I thought it was another fuse somewhere, but was able to disconnect the Security Starter Cut Relay and use a jumper wire to bypass the Security Unit to start the car . I will figure this out later. The other thing was that when I first tried to disarm the system, the parking lights flashed and the gauge cluster "P" started to flash (transmission code?). When I bypassed the Security Starter Cut Relay, this problem when away, but I can see it coming back when I get the door fixed and power the Security Unit back up. Tomorrow, I'm going to buy the correct relay on my lunch (and a box of 20A fuses) and then when I get home I'm going to see what I can figure out about this problem. The only relay that I was able to confirm as being part of the OEM Accord Security Optional Harness was the RC-2201, which by no coincidence hasn't given me any trouble.
  15. I know, 1700+ views! My dash swap DIY thread past 2000 views the other day! I will take some pics tonight after I do a test fit with the door panel off.
  16. I can’t believe I have run through an entire roll of electrical tape in two months. Phew, I have been busy. I have to pick some up on my way home. I have pretty much finished the harness. Given the aforementioned connection issues, I have only 6 wires to solder when I put this into the car. That’s not too bad considering there are 20 wires coming from the security unit (22 for the Honda’s with electric locking mechanisms on the trunk). I noted that the CR-V’s OEM Honda trunk release mechanism is run on 20 amps. I have yet to buy an electronic trunk release, so decided not to connect the power source to the relay just yet. I may or may not need 12V at 20 amps, but that doesn’t stop me from installing the rest of the system. Same goes for the Hood Switch. I am installing the Hood Switch this weekend, but that doesn’t stop me from installing the rest of the system this evening.
  17. I have run into some issues in fabricating an OEM security harness: 20-pin grey: For some reason, I could not find the grey 20-pin connector needed on the right side of the steering wheel. I thought I could use the green 20-pin connector from the left side of the dash, but under closer inspection I realized that the grey 20-pin connector has a 12 gauge BLU/RED wire that is pined with the large silver Honda pin. I have do not have the patience to track down an alternative solution to this BLU/RED issue, and holding this project back over one wire did not seem reasonable. 7-pin brown: This connector is unique to the fuse box found in the 5G Accord and short of finding another security harness on another Honda with same fuse box, there is no way to fabricate this connection. 14-pin grey: I have decided that the trouble involved in tracking down this connector outweighs the benefit of having it. These connections are not an issue for me, but I am disappointed to admit that what I am making isn't an exact duplicate of the OEM security harness. I think the best thing to do at this point is to provide a pinout for the Control Unit, show what I did to fabricate a pseudo OEM security harness, and then allow people to decide on the details of how to install the harness. I think a wiring diagram showing how the Control Unit should be connected would really help others to use the CR-V parts.
  18. Yikes! No wires! I didn't notice that the 2001 CR-V already has the Security Sub-Harness as part of the Main Harness! So I took about 20 minutes finding alternate connections in the Accord. I have to go to the salvage yard after my next payday, and obtain from another 1996-97 Accord: 20-pin Green Connector off the Gauge Cluster two 6-pin relay connections two 4-pin relay connections Then I have to get hoppin on fabricating my Security Harness.
  19. It's so close I can taste it! Tracking number......180500830454882.................Reference......MATTEU Ship date..................Jul 16, 2008..........................Destination...JACKSONVILLE, FL Estimated delivery....Jul 21, 2008..........................Service type..Ground-Domestic .............................................................................Weight..........2.5 lbs. Status.....................On FedEx vehicle for delivery Date/Time_____________Activity____________________________Location___________Details________________________ Jul 19, 2008.......4:43 AM On FedEx vehicle for delivery..............JACKSONVILLE, FL.........Scheduled for delivery next business day Jul 18, 2008......11:05PM At local FedEx facility.........................JACKSONVILLE, FL ..........................6:04PM Departed FedEx location.....................ELLENWOOD, GA ..........................3:12PM Arrived at FedEx location.....................ELLENWOOD, GA Jul 17, 2008......12:28PM Departed FedEx location.....................SYRACUSE, NY ..........................1:56AM Arrived at FedEx location.....................SYRACUSE, NY Jul 16, 2008......10:04PM Left FedEx origin facility.......................BUFFALO, NY ..........................6:38PM Arrived at FedEx location.....................BUFFALO, NY .........................4:05 PM Picked up...........................................BUFFALO, NY ..........................9:03AM Package data transmitted to FedEx
  20. Four days! Woop! Wooooop! Tracking number......180500830454882..............Reference......MATTEU Ship date.................Jul 16, 2008........................Destination...JACKSONVILLE, FL Estimated delivery....Jul 21, 2008......................Service type..Ground-Domestic .........................................................................Weight..........2.5 lbs. Status.....................Arrived at FedEx location Date/Time____________Activity____________________________Location________Details Jul 17, 2008......1:56AM Arrived at FedEx location......................SYRACUSE, NY............. Jul 16, 2008.....10:04PM Left FedEx origin facility.......................BUFFALO, NY................ .........................6:38PM Arrived at FedEx location.....................BUFFALO, NY................ ........................4:05 PM Picked up...........................................BUFFALO, NY............... ........................9:03AM Package data transmitted to FedEx
  21. Here it comes via FedEx! Tracking number......180500830454882..............Reference......MATTEU Ship date.................Jul 16, 2008.......................Destination...JACKSONVILLE, FL .........................................................................Service type..Ground-Domestic .........................................................................Weight..........2.5 lbs. Status.....................Picked up Date/Time____________Activity____________________________Location________Details Jul 16, 2008......4:05 PM Picked up...........................................BUFFALO, NY..................... ........................9:03AM Package data transmitted to FedEx
  22. The Plan: Research Phase 1: Background Information Find out why some cars have a Rear Fog Lamp and some don't -Done, some countries adhere to the Economic Commission of Europe Regulation 48 and some do not. The ECE R48 defines the rear lamp intensity as being between 150 and 300 candelas and located a minimum of 10cm from any other light source. Find out if Honda uses a third part manufacturer -Incomplete. Stanley makes the lenses, but I have no idea who makes the rest of the stuff. Find out if there is any difference in the left and right lamps -Incomplete. There appears to be a difference between the left and right with regard to the black housing behind the lamp in that it should sheild the wires from water splashing up from below. I appears that using a left lamp on the right would reverse this and sheild the top of the connector, rather than the bottom. Same might go for using a right lamp (UKDM or JDM) on the left. Obtain a wiring diagram for an Accord with Rear Fog Lamps -Done. Research Phase 2: Invested Research Purchase a 1997 Acura CL Heated Seat Switch Assembly -Done. Purchase one of the following: Accord Rear Fog Switch Assembly -Done. Research Phase 3: The Switch Plan A: A.1: Use the 1997 Acura CL Heated Seat Switch Assembly (which controls both Driver and Passenger Side Heaters) in place of the 1999 Acura CL Driver Side Heated Seat Switch -Done, it fits! A.2: Use a Civic Rear Fog Lamp Switch in place of the 1999 Acura CL Passenger Side Heated Seat Switch. -On standby. Plan B: B.1: Use the 1997 Acura CL Heated Seat Switch Assembly (which controls both Driver and Passenger Side Heaters) in place of the 1999 Acura CL Driver Side Heated Seat Switch -Done, it fits! B.2: Change the symbol on the 1999 Acura CL Passenger Side Heated Seat Switch to the symbol for the Rear Fog Light along with changing the indicator light from green to orange or red. -Incomplete. I purchased 1000 and 2000 grit sand paper, white and satin black spray paint. Plan C: Use two relays: one Normally Open Relay and one Normally Closed Relay. The Normally Open Relay would be wired in series to get voltage from the Front Fog Lamp Switch Assembly. The Normally Open Relay would also interrupt the Rear Fog Ground Wire. The second relay, the Normally Closed Relay, would be wired in series to the Cruise Control Main Switch Assembly ground. The second relay would interrupt the ground wire from the first relay. The desired result would be that Rear Fog Lamp would not come on until I : a) switch on the Front Fog Lamps, and b) power down the Cruise Control System. I ride with the Cruise Control System on all the time, but never use it in conditions where I would have reduced visibility. -On standby. Preparation Phase 1: Fabrication pt. 1 Create the wiring harness(es) and obtain the grommets needed to pass same through the chassis at the rear. Make all necessary changes to the switches. -Incomplete. Preparation Phase 2: Procurement Obtain the Rear Fog Lamp -Done Preparation Phase 3: Fabrication pt. 2 If and only if necessary (based on Prep Phase 2), create a stencil for the part of the Rear Bumper that needs to be trimmed to make room for the Rear Fog Lamp. Take the Rear Bumper to a body shop to have them cut out the section. -TBD. Execution Phase: Install the Rear Fog Lamp and Switch. -ETA: Unknown. Projected Costs: Light and wire: $200 Switch: $30 Budget: $300 Money Spent So Far: $120.00 EDM Rear Foglight, bracket, switch, and wiring Total Money Spent: $120.00
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