alex37211 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I've got this extra hatchback with a d16z6 and I wanna boost it. Nothing serious, just for fun. I'm not looking for more than like 170ish whp. But really, I just want it to work and not damage the engine. I don't want to change any internals either. I just want to put some dsm injectors in it, maybe a walboro 255, and bolt on the turbo, fmic, radiator, etc. Then of course I'll have it dyno tuned properly. I've got an s300'd p28 that I'm not using. I have no experience in turboing so I'd like to do it to the d-series for the practice and experience before I build and boost my gsr hatch. I'm going to start piecing together a kit from craigslist or wherever and I want to know what the optimal size turbo would be for a stock d16z6. (housings, trim, turbine, etc.) Also, a safe psi for said turbo. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 T3/TO4 with a .55 trim at 8-10 pounds would rock your socks off on that motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 I found this one on CL: For sale is a brand new custom built turbo from Fatboy Products. It has a standard T3 exhaust housing with a T3 flange. I has garrett internals and a .60 trim t4 compressor housing. This turbo is brand new and has never been used. This turbo has never been used. The project never was finished, now my loss is your gain. It was purchased for $450 or so a few years ago, I will let it go for $200. Would this be too much? Too laggy? I'd like to avoid too much lag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mafdark Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 WTF. Lets arbitrarily pick turbos for this motor. or... do the work and figure out what would be best for your goals: http://www.hondaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=32471 For a goal of 175hp a T3/T4 is absolutely NOT necessary and therefore would create more lag than other options. I bet you could find a dirt cheap GT28R that you could run at 9psi for that power level with half as much lag as the 3/4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Like Maf said, there isn't an *optimal* turbo for a particular motor, there are so many variables. I agree with Maf, a GT 25/28 is probably going to be the best bang for your buck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Like Maf said, there isn't an *optimal* turbo for a particular motor, there are so many variables. I agree with Maf, a GT 25/28 is probably going to be the best bang for your buck. Okay, now we're getting somewhere. So gt25 or gt28? What else is there to it? Are there different trims or a/r etc? What's gonna achieve the hp goal most efficiently with the least amount of lag? I take it the gt28 compresses more air than a gt25? Maf, you said gt28r. What's the "r" mean? Are there a lot of different types of gt28's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sport Injection Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 The "R" designates it as a ball bearing turbo. Turbo's without the the "R" are journal bearing turbos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaiSaiJDM Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 If you are trying to stay on a tight budget, and don't mind used parts, try to find a 14b turbo from the 4G63T Eclipse/Talon. Or even the smaller T25, you can buy both turbos for next to nothing in stock form. It all depends what flange the manifold you get will have. Run it at about 6-8psi and call it day, should give you the 170whp you are looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 If you are trying to stay on a tight budget, and don't mind used parts, try to find a 14b turbo from the 4G63T Eclipse/Talon. Or even the smaller T25, you can buy both turbos for next to nothing in stock form. It all depends what flange the manifold you get will have. Run it at about 6-8psi and call it day, should give you the 170whp you are looking for. The budget isn't really a big factor. And I'd rather go with used parts. That way I can sell them for about the same price when I'm done with them. Alright, so the nominees are..gt25, gt28, 14b, t25 (is that the same as a gt25?) and the gt28r, which I guess is identical to a gt28 except it uses ball bearings in lieu of journals. Surely one of these is a better choice than the others for this application. Hey I found one like this for sale. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_466541_1.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mafdark Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 The edelbrock kit came with a GT28R, this basically flooded the market with them because the people who want more than 200hp upgrade. You should be able to find them quite easily as well as log/cast manifolds. The fact that the turbo is internally gated might be an additional plus for you, you wouldnt need to buy an external wastegate nor dumptube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaiSaiJDM Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Yeah, with your modest power goals, no need for a external wastegate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 The budget isn't really a big factor. And I'd rather go with used parts. That way I can sell them for about the same price when I'm done with them. Alright, so the nominees are..gt25, gt28, 14b, t25 (is that the same as a gt25?) and the gt28r, which I guess is identical to a gt28 except it uses ball bearings in lieu of journals.Surely one of these is a better choice than the others for this application. Hey I found one like this for sale. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_466541_1.htm A T25 is the Garret made for 2G DSMs. The GT25 is what Garret makes for itself. When are you looking to do this? If it's far enough in the future, I will have a used T25 as well as some DSM injectors available for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 A T25 is the Garret made for 2G DSMs. The GT25 is what Garret makes for itself. When are you looking to do this? If it's far enough in the future, I will have a used T25 as well as some DSM injectors available for sale. Mid-late spring, or whenever it warms up. So you haven't installed that 16g yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Mid-late spring, or whenever it warms up. So you haven't installed that 16g yet? I don't have the supporting mods for it. Right now I just need it to be running again. There is a lot required for upping the boost. I could get away with just fuel pump, injectors, a manual boost controller, and an SAFC, but I really want to do it once, and do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 I went with a 14b. I found one welded to an hf manifold for $130. And the guy threw in an extra hf manifold. I'll be looking for some injectors now. And I'll probably buy an intercooler/ piping kit and walboro fuel pump from ebay. I'm excited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 turbonetics super 60 works well on the Dseries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 For a stock z6 my bet would be on a 14b turbo at around 10psi. That will easily get you into the 200whp/200wtq range or better and will push close to 250whp/tq if you up the boost. Plus you'll get full spool at 2500-3000rpms and they are pretty cheap to come by. This is the turbo I plan to use someday if I do my homemade turbo setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Well here it is. The guy who had it before me couldn't get it to seal between the turbo and manifold so he welded it. Quite a sloppy job, but it works. I'll probably take my angle grinder and smooth it out a little. It has an internal wastegate, but I took the actuator thingy off and I'm gonna have the little flapper welded shut, then use an external WG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 that hack job seems way too sketchy to safely put on your car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 It's not like that. It's bolted together properly via an adaptor plate, he just couldn't get it to seal with a gasket so they just dripped steel all around it. It's not gonna fall apart or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 It's not like that. It's bolted together properly via an adaptor plate, he just couldn't get it to seal with a gasket so they just dripped steel all around it. It's not gonna fall apart or anything. i'd deff take a grinder and smooth it out and try to make it look like its just one solid piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 What reason do you have for welding the wastegate shut and going with an external? Doesn't make much sense to me unless it's so you can run a much lower boost than the wastegate has...even then there's other easier ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 What reason do you have for welding the wastegate shut and going with an external? Doesn't make much sense to me unless it's so you can run a much lower boost than the wastegate has...even then there's other easier ways. This is a question I too am interested in. The only reason to run external is to avoid boost creep, which isn't usually a problem until you got to a much higher boost level. Even then, there are ways around boost creep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted March 31, 2009 Author Share Posted March 31, 2009 What reason do you have for welding the wastegate shut and going with an external? Doesn't make much sense to me unless it's so you can run a much lower boost than the wastegate has...even then there's other easier ways. Three reasons: The stock one was a little dented from the turbo rolling around in some guy's trunk. I want to experience and learn about all aspects of a turbo installation to gain experience. I've been told that a good external WG can is generally more accurate than an internal one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Three reasons: The stock one was a little dented from the turbo rolling around in some guy's trunk. I want to experience and learn about all aspects of a turbo installation to gain experience. I've been told that a good external WG can is generally more accurate than an internal one. The wastegate or the actuator? Up to you, but if I can have something work for less money, I typically run with that. DSMs have been running for years at 20+ psi on internal wastegates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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