The Boosted LSVTEC Thread

[90IntegraC1]

As I'm trying to get the lsvtec done by December, I want to start researching now about piecing together a turbo kit instead of waiting until 2 weeks before I have to order everything. For now I will be running the YS1 LS Trans, Clutchmasters Stage 1 Clutch and PP, and Clutchmasters 8 lb Flywheel. The block will be stock for now, and the head is a B18C1 (GSR), ported, polished, and 3 way vjob, JDM B18C Camshafts, AEM Adjustable Cam Gears, ITR Waterpump, Greddy Timing Belt an Edlebrock IM.

 

This is just the set-up I'm looking at for now. I would like to hear everyone's opinions and why you would agree that my set-up is sufficient or why you would change something...

 

Turbo:

Precision T3/T4, part # SC-5031E. The reason I'm going for this turbo is I want a quick spooling Turbo that won't effect reliability too much, also the max hp I ever want to run is 450, not even that. This turbo can handle up to 450 hp, which is something I'll never attain, so that's fine with me. It's the first one in the list in the link.

 

Turbo Manifold:

InlinePRO T3/4 Cast Iron Manifold, from the research I've done, since the wastegate port is directly above the collecter, exhaust gas from all 4 cylinders will go through the wastegate. Other manifolds in which the wastegate port is directly above one runner or in between 2, you're only getting exhaust gas from one cylinder or two. So since the wastegate port is centrally located, I want to run this manifold, unless anyone opposes?

 

Wastegate:

Tial 38mm, 14 psi Wastegate. Tial is obviously a preferred brand between Honda enthusiasts. I've seen over and over when people pop their hood a Tial Wastegate, and never any complaints. I'm going with the 14 psi spring just because 14 psi on a build block and head is definately a good set-up, obviously with a boost controller I'll run about 8 or 9 lbs on the street, and 14 when racing....on the track of course.

 

Down Pipe:

Burns Stainless Custom Downpipe, it's going to be custom made with 2.5" piping. Unfortunately, using 2.5" piping in a DA eliminates A/C, but I'm not going for comfort. I will also be buying 2 new o2 sensors, one for the OEM reading and one for a Wide band (A-F ratio gauge will be used).

 

Exhaust:

Thermal Research and Development, pre-made exhausts for a turbo DA using 2.5" piping, this also comes with a Thermal Research Muffler. you can see pics of the DC2 exhaust on that site, it looks real nice.

 

Air Filter:

Once again I'll be going to Burns Stainless for a small intake pipe that gets placed in front of the turbine. The pipe will be 2.5" and I'll use a K&N Cone Filter.

 

Intercooler Piping:

Burns Stainless again. Passengr side goes through the hole where a CAI would go and Driver's side goes through the hole where the Windshield Washer Fluid sits. 2.5" piping once again.

 

Intercooler and Clamps:

Precision Intercoolers., I'm not positive about the height, depth, and legth yet, but I will talk to other DA owners and see what they used.

 

Blow-off Valve:

HKS SSQV Blow-off Valve, Self-explainitory. HKS is a great brand. It will be mounted and welded by Mighty Muffler Performance in Aston, PA.

 

Vacuum Manifold:

Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold to run vacuum lines for the FPR, BOV, and Boost Gauge.

 

Oil Supply and Return Hoses:

Baker Precision Lines

l--->this site has almost every hose, connecter, and clamp I could need.

Z10 Performance

l--->they have the 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT Adapter that the first site does not offer.

 

Boost Controller:

Greddy PRofec Boost Controller

 

Fuel and Engine Management:

To prevent the OEM MAP sensor from sensing boost I'll be using a Check Valve. This keeps the ECU from sensing positive pressure, which would throw a CEL. For Fuel Management i will be using RC 550cc injecters, Holley Fuel Pump, AEM FPR and a gauge.

 

For Engine Managment i will be using the OBD-0 equivelent to Hondata, http://www.zdyne.com/. I will be using the Gold SECU, which is fully tuneable. Most shops will tune this set-up, and after taking the Wiring Harnesses out of my parts car I don't think I want to go through that again doing an OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion.

 

Ignition:

MSD Universal Boost Timing Master. This adjusts ignition timing per pound of boost, I will do this instead of turning the distributer to retard the timing...that kills low end power.

 

Tuning:

I believe I want to go with Jeff Evans, but he's $600 for a base tune and $200 for every "re-tune." J-K Tuning is just a $200 base tune, and a cheaper "re-tune."

 

Opinions?

 

w00t ...this took like a week of research. Don't hate.

[mycarsux]

I think its funny you research all this instead of your schoolwork, lol.

 

Do me a favor and find out what type of cast iron the turbo manifold is. I'm curious.

[compuvision02]

In terms of a tune, go Jeff Evans if you have the money, period.

[cranny]

that turbo im sure is fine , id go with garrett if i were you but no biggie.

 

that manifold looks nice , little pricey , id check ebay if i were you.

 

cant go wrong with a TIAL wastegate. just to let you know , electric boost controller is gonna run you alot dude , lol , go with a manual one. who cares if you have to pop the hood to adjust it.

 

you can buy flange kits eh 90 , for people making thier own downpipes , get them , make custom making those pipes a sinch. make sure your turbo doesnt have a V band connection eithe ri never looked , whole different way of bolting your downpipe to your turbo.

 

as far as exhausts goes , you can get an exhaust fabbed as well for pretty cheap man. lots of places you can buy pre-mandrel bent piping in lenghts , 45 degree , and 90 degree elbows usually. easy for you to have a downpipe , exhaust , and charge pipes fabbed for you. made to fit.

 

dont matter what intercooler you buy man , most of em , even cheap ones will get the job done plenty fine with room to spare. your turbo has a 2" outlet as well dont forget , so 2" might be the way to go for you. keep it straight. and youl also need the inlet charge pipe to be 3" , since your turbo you picked has 3" inlet. unless if your lucky , which you might be with a log manny , to put a cone filter right on the turbo.

 

couple different routes you can go for BOV's. one youve listed is good , RFL make loud ones. theres different sounding BOV's.

 

for your oiling lines , theres prolly a local place close to you that could make them for you. any place that deals with industrial equipment so on. but that site looks good. as long as they dont leak , your in , lol.

 

as far as that boost controller you got your eyes on goes , lol ,jesus man , lol , you dont need anything like that. you dont need anything that datalogs , thats for tuners , you just need something that will allow you to adjust your boost , thats it. just trying to save you money dude , and buying things you really dont need.

 

a MAP sensor check valve eh , ive never heard of them , never seen one used , i read the site , awsome idea , but i dont know. me myself , id prefer just to go buy(since your comming this far) , a 2.5 bar MAP sensor. one made for boosted engines. but if the valve works , it could save you money.

 

for fuel managment , forst of all , get 550 cc injectors , not 450's. at least 550's dude. if you can find them , get 750's. makes it easier tuning wise , and healthier for engine since your injectors wont be working at 97% duty cycle to keep up. id personally go with a walpro 255LPH pump , its the fav , have seen them in action , they work great and dont break the bank. AEM FPR sounds great , they make adjustable ones as well.

 

as far as the engine managament you got picked out , never heard of it. awsome price though for plug and play. theres other options as well just to let you know. to wire an OBD1 ecu right into the car is nothing dude , and to chip an OBD1 ECU to be able to be tuned by crome , will cost you a whopping 30 bucks , lol. so choose wisely.

 

as far as retarding your timing , you dont have to do that , it can be done with the tuning , and most likely will be. uberdata , crome , hondata , all these products auto adjust your timing. usually a degree per lb. around there.

 

as far as tuning goes , sounds like one guy is overcharging , and the other is just learning like me , lol. dont mess with your car as far as tuning goes dude , could ruin everything else youve worked on. in a few months , ill be able to chip and tune ECU's using crome first. so when i get i going , youl be able to send me your ecu's , and when they come back it will be plug and play boost. all ill need to know is how much boost , what size injectors , so on.

 

nice research 90 , your in man. only money holding you back.

[compuvision02]

as far as tuning goes , sounds like one guy is overcharging , and the other is just learning like me , lol. dont mess with your car as far as tuning goes dude , could ruin everything else youve worked on. in a few months , ill be able to chip and tune ECU's using crome first. so when i get i going , youl be able to send me your ecu's , and when they come back it will be plug and play boost. all ill need to know is how much boost , what size injectors , so on.

 

J-K Tuning is actually supposed to be really good, just not too well known, but Evans is worth it, he really knows what he is doing.

[chris(pa)]

Thats a lot of $$ to dump into your car man

 

But by the sound of it, it sound be f'in nasty

[90IntegraC1]

Cranny-

 

The electronic boost controller is pricey, but i'm going all out here lol. I would like to have a sweet action box in my car that i could just adjust in seconds and run more boost.

 

E-bay manifolds are pretty much crap, and I looked up inlinePro and I only saw SSAutoChrome...sooo I'll just dish out the cash.

 

Where could I find a flange kit? I would like to make my own downpipe, then in the future have Mighty muffler in Aston install an electric cut-out for my downpipe. Hell Yeah.

 

The reason that intercooler dealer is so appealing is because putting an intercooler on a DA is a headache. So if I can take measurements, go on that site, then find the perfect size intercooler for my application then i'm set.

 

For injecters, what brand do you recommend? I want to go with 550's if it will help my engine. 750's might be a little too pricey for me lol. And I might go with Walbro, but Holley is cheaper soooo we'll see.

 

To convert my ECU to OBD-1 is easy? Is it just cutting and splicing? Aren't the wires different colors? And I do want to just stay OBD-0 because it's soooo dumb. Doens't even know i went AT-MT lol. OBD-1 would throw a code and activate a rev limiter at like 3K on every gear...

 

And yes, that's a lot of money being dumped into my car, but I'll only get to do this once. After college I'll have no time...and when I do....well, sex. lol.

[sonnyjc3]

Where could I find a flange kit? I would like to make my own downpipe, then in the future have Mighty muffler in Aston install an electric cut-out for my downpipe. Hell Yeah.

yah when i tried to piece together a turbo, found random sized piping with flanges already on them as well as plain old weld on flanges. i will say it sounds good, but its not like i reaaaaaly know what im talking about anyways so my opinion merits no importance. when shopping for my turbo though, i found a garret t3 super 60 turbo, it was realllly nice. but i will give my opinion on your bov, while the ssqv bov mechanically is the best bov there is because of the way it seals its self shut, imo it sounds like sneezing chipmunk. idk if you want that, but personally, i appreciate the sound of the greddy rs far better.

 

edit: this is that same vid from that supra 10k bet vid. but the first supra to burn out, has the ssqv bov. just in case you didnt know what it sounded like. http://www.lvracingscene.com/videos/stream...s_Saad_Saad.wmv

[mycarsux]

Want me to make anything, Dan?? I'll do it for free. I have the materials, equipment, and know-how.

[sonnyjc3]

Want me to make anything, Dan?? I'll do it for free. I have the materials, equipment, and know-how.

there ya go dan, i think harry said he can weld. let him weld a flange on a pipe for you, then he can be all artsy and etch his name into it so can have his own "brand name."

[90IntegraC1]

sonny-my mac doesn't support that download...

 

Harry, yeah when I get some turbo parts in the spring semester I just might have to send you some things to do lol.

[sonnyjc3]

sonny-my mac doesn't support that download...

i was afraid of that, idk, if you ever get to a diff comp you can check it out i guess...

[EH6TunerDaniel]

Dan, Im kinda surprised cranny didnt say anything about this, but you cant run a 14 psi wastegate and only run 8-9 psi on the street. A boost controller can only let the turbo build more boost than the wastegate is set at, not less.

 

I would also go with garrett turbo, but hey, but what you want.

 

Dont forget you need to get a tune for every psi you decide to run. Say you want to run 10 psi, you need a 10 psi map, and when your run 14 psi, you will need a 14 psi fuel map.

[Attaus]

That's actually a really good setup. I've been wanting someone to try the SC50 out for a while because I've heard all of these complaints about the SC61 being too large. Keep us updated on that..

 

Otherwise, I would go RC/Precision 550cc as Cranny mentioned. DSM's are too iffy. Plus the more fuel you have on tap the better.

 

Also, undersize your spring as mentioned. Wastegates can be adjusted up from spring, not down.

 

 

As far as tune goes, this can be one of the most pivotal points in boosting. If you've got the cash, go with Jeff. Otherwise, get a decent tune somewhere else and save up.

[EH6TunerDaniel]

I would get RC injectors, do you want rising rate or peak and hold?

[mycarsux]

I can't weld for my life. But I know some great welders that might do it for free. I just know how to machine metal.

[sonnyjc3]

I can't weld for my life. But I know some great welders that might do it for free. I just know how to machine metal.

ooh, i wanna learn some metal crafting, or body work or something.

[90IntegraC1]

I would get RC injectors, do you want rising rate or peak and hold?

 

Peak and effing hold like an SRT-4.

 

Dan, Im kinda surprised cranny didnt say anything about this, but you cant run a 14 psi wastegate and only run 8-9 psi on the street. A boost controller can only let the turbo build more boost than the wastegate is set at, not less.

 

I would also go with garrett turbo, but hey, but what you want.

 

Dont forget you need to get a tune for every psi you decide to run. Say you want to run 10 psi, you need a 10 psi map, and when your run 14 psi, you will need a 14 psi fuel map.

 

hmmm, so if I buy a 8 lb spring i can adjust it to 14 with the boost controller? wouldn't that hurt the wga spring? i'm a little confused.

 

I'm going with precision because it seems like people on honda-tech, g2ic, and hondaswap have had good success with them, and I like the underdog lol. If I were to get a big ass turbo, I'd get the Garrett just because Garrett 50 Trim sounds BA.

 

Yeah I know you have to tune for each setting, but once it's tuned, i'm good to go.

 

That's actually a really good setup. I've been wanting someone to try the SC50 out for a while because I've heard all of these complaints about the SC61 being too large. Keep us updated on that..

 

Otherwise, I would go RC/Precision 550cc as Cranny mentioned. DSM's are too iffy. Plus the more fuel you have on tap the better.

 

Also, undersize your spring as mentioned. Wastegates can be adjusted up from spring, not down.

 

I like RC Injecters a lot. They're beautiful, I think I had 370cc RC's on my H22...don't really remember the number...So DSM is out. I'm gonna edit the OP.

 

Still confused about the wastegate spring...

[mycarsux]

The only way EH6 would be making sense in my mind is if the type of wategate (14 psi, or 8 psi) was the minimum psi you could run. But I would assume they're the maximum.

[Attaus]

It is a little confusing. I'm not exactly sure how the EBC controls it, (although I know its by vacuum) but I'm 100% positive you cannot adjust the psi down past the spring, but you can above it. Backwards, but true. The spring is set to release pressure at 7 psi or whatever the spring is, so you can't have it release below that because there isn't enough pressure to move the spring. With a vauum source, however, you can extend it several psi. 14 psi would be no problem with a 9 psi spring.

 

Good call on the RC's.

 

Overall you should have a solid setup and still make good power.

[90IntegraC1]

ahhh mmk, I just don't want to find out that I can't run 14 lbs on a 10 lb spring later b/c of too much boost pressure...the set-up seems decent to me. Anyone else have opinions or comments? Come on Mike, share your wisdom sir.

[sonnyjc3]

The only way EH6 would be making sense in my mind is if the type of wategate (14 psi, or 8 psi) was the minimum psi you could run. But I would assume they're the maximum.

well a spring can expand, you cant contract a spring. a 30 poount spring is going to be a lot stiffer than a 1 pound spring spring(dont think theres such thing) so anyway, if you have a 14 pound spring, at 14 pounds, that springs going to have to pull a certain ammount to keep the waste gate open. and this ammount will vary with the ammount of boost your pushing. so like a 30 pount spring, being really stiff is going to pull the waste gate open, but its prolyl going to open it up to the further degree faster than a 14 pound spring. meaning you wont be able to make less boost than 30 pounds on a 30 pund spring. does that help?

[90IntegraC1]

yes sir.

 

So I guess I'll go with the Tial .70 Bar/10.25 psi WGA, then with the boost controller turn it up to 14 psi at the track. Is that okay?

[mycarsux]

Just make sure 14 psi is the perfect pressure for the setup you got. In other words, get a tune and find out what the perfect wga setting is.

[Attaus]

Sounds good.

 

Don't be scared about the springs.. they're like a few dollars for a set and easy to change.