10 to 1 comp 

rc 750 injectors 

  6266 turbo 

 3 inch exhuast 

4 bar map 

canada nova scotia

ramhorn mani

around 12 psi would be great

hondata s300 v3

any helps greatly appreciated

Appreciate any help!

Links to pictures:

https://ibb.co/vJRC7sz
https://ibb.co/2dcpxtz
https://ibb.co/8MKMLjt

I am going to keep this as brief as possible. I am at a loss and desperate at this point because I heavily rely on my car for my two jobs- and I am exhausted.

This has been going on for a full year now, and I don't know what else to do.

Please bear with me, and enjoy the ride because its a long story- but I'll keep it summarized.

I have had  A LOT go wrong with my 2005 Honda CRV SE.

It is my favorite car, its been my dream car for years- I know its old but I need it to last a little longer until I can afford a new car, but it shouldn't be "Dead" yet.

I have gotten second opinions, and even paid for an inspection with no improvement- here's the details.

• My 2005 Honda CRV SE has trouble cold starting- it cranks then the tachometer starts going up and down(it sounds like it wants to start) THEN once the tachometer reaches "1" I put my foot on the gas and that's the only way it starts. But then other times the cold start is fine and starts perfectly!
• With this problem, my dash lights are inconsistent too. One day the engine light, VSA light and triangle light with the exclamation point are on and then the next day they aren't. I think its an electrical problem- but I can't get any mechanic to listen to me or take me seriously.
• On the days where its harder to start, the tachometer goes up and down like usual while Im cranking it but then the front end of the car hops/thumps along with the crank sound itself. Then it finally turns over and starts. It drives perfectly once started- so I am so confused.

Unfortunately, I think my mechanic may be incompetent with this issue even though hes a great guy. I JUST picked up my car Friday and two hours late it wasn't starting again. Here is everything I have had replaced on my 2005 Honda SE, so we can narrow it down. Due to this, I am at a loss.

• I have new fuel injectors
• New spark plugs and ignition coils
• New fuel filter
• New battery
• New VVT solenoid
• New valve cover gasket
• New exhaust pipe
• New brakes and rotors

I have been taking my car into my mechanic for a year, and once hes fixes something- the problem arises again only after a week or two weeks.

Long story short, he doesn't listen to me and im tired.

I went somewhere else and got a second opinion- I paid for an inspection. They said it only needs a new VVT solenoid, my previous mechanic just did that so I told him per the inspection, I needed it replaced. It was covered under warranty- and he replaced it. But it did not fix the problem. I asked the place I got a second opinion from if the VVT solenoid could be why its not starting properly, they said yes.

Im at a loss now- its got to be wiring or something electrical right? Especially since the problem is so inconsistent. One week it starts perfectly, with no dash lights. Then the following a bunch of dash lights come on and it doesn't start.

Im so tired, heres a few other things my mechanic and the other place I got an inspection from ruled out:

• They said my fuel pump is fine

Is it an electrical issue or wiring? I notice my headlights are very bright but sometimes my dash lights seem dull. Also when it cranks but doesn't start the battery light or the oil lamp light comes on. Sometimes it turns, then dies immediately showing the battery light. Its got to be wiring I think....Im so tired please 😞

Thank you! 

Is it possible for the pistons to contact or bend the valves when turning the crank over with a big ratchet or does it need centrifugal force to make contact?

I never had an oil pressure idiot light on the dash, but I get this P3400 code which suggests there is no oil pressure at the rocker arm bank closest to the firewall.

Is there an oil pressure sending unit that serves only the dash idiot light? Why would that light stay off while the oil pressure switches on the rocker arm are detecting no or insufficient oil pressure? (yes the dash light works... I have the oil pressure light illuminated with the key on but engine not running)

I unplugged both oil pressure switches to see if I would get a second code and I did not. Instead, I got a flashing check engine light AND the P3400 code did not happen.  Not sure why. I get the P3400 everytime I run it normally.

Also, I am having a very hard time finding a manual oil pressure gauge setup that will fit the Honda.  My tester is SAE/NPT and the oil pressure switch on the Honda J35A7 is 10mm x 1.25. No one has an adaptor for this (male 10mm x 1.25, female 1/8 x 27 NPT). I am not sure why it so hard for me to locate a manual oil pressure gauge that is compatible with my Honda engine.

Bottomline is that I am scared to run the engine any longer without a manual oil pressure test so I can be certain if my oil pressure switch is bad or if there is indeed no oil pressure.  

Turbo

oil/coolant lines

charge piping

intercooler (?)

Exhaust manifold

wastegate

down pipe

Also what do i have to do to the ECU?

lastly if you could point me to some good cheap websites it would be appreciated. Thanks

Here is what I know:

• chain has some pretty good slack

•#1 intake valves are hanging up when rotating motor by hand. It binds, then taunts the chain then clicks as it release tension. My guess is #1 is the reason why it died.

•No obvious carnage, no other cylinders are binding.

I do not know what happened, but I am guessing that the chain slop finally caught up. Let me know if you know of any other causes? Or solutions? Thanks!

OBD1

long flashes are the first number and short flashes are the second number

(example: 5 long and 7 short would be code 57)

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)

Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A

Code 2 Oxygen content B

Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure

Code 4 Crank position sensor

Code 6 Engine coolant temperature

Code 7 Throttle position sensor

Code 8 Top dead center sensor

Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor

Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor

Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system

Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor

Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM

Code 15 Ignition output signal

Code 16 Fuel Injector

Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor

Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid

Code 20 Electric load detector

Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid

Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid

Code 23 Knock sensor

Code 30 A/T FI signal A

Code 30 A/T FI signal B

Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater

Code 43 Fuel supply system

Code 45 Fuel supply metering

Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor

Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor

Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor

Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater

Code 67 Catalytic converter system

Code 70 Automatic transaxle

Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1

Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2

Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3

Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4

Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5

Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6

Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system

Code 86 Coolant temperature

Code 92 Evaporative emission control system

OBD2

P1106 BARO Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction

P1107 BARO Circuit Low Input

P1108 BARO Circuit High Input

P1121 Throttle Position Lower Than Expected

P1122 Throttle Position Higher Than Expected

P1128 MAP Lower Than Expected

P1129 MAP Higher Than Expected

P1162 HO2S11 Circuit Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1163 HO2S11 Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1164 HO2S11 Circuit Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1165 HO2S11 Slow Response(Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1166 HO2S11 Heater Circuit Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1167 HO2S11 Heater Circuit (VS+) Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1168 HO2S11 Label Circuit Low Voltage Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1169 HO2S11 Label Circuit High Voltage Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1201 Cylinder 1 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0301

P1202 Cylinder 2 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0302

P1203 Cylinder 3 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0303

P1204 Cylinder 4 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0304

P1205 Cylinder 5 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0305

P1206 Cylinder 6 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0306

P1241 Throttle Vent Control Motor Circuit 1 Malfunction

P1242 Throttle Vent Control Motor Circuit 2 Malfunction

P1243 Throttle Position Insufficient

P1244 Closed Throttle Position Insufficient

P1246 Accelerator Position Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction

P1247 Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction

P1248 Accelerator Position Sensors 1 & 2 Improper Correlation

P1253 VTEC System Circuit Fault

P1259 VTEC System Malfunction, Rear Bank (Bank 1)

P1279 VTEC System Malfunction, Front Bank (Bank 2)

P1297 ELD Circuit Low Input

P1298 Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Voltage

P1300 Random Misfire

P1301 Cylinder 1 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0301

P1302 Cylinder 2 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0302

P1303 Cylinder 3 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0303

P1304 Cylinder 4 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0304

P1305 Cylinder 5 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0305

P1306 Cylinder 6 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0306

P1316 Spark Plug Voltage Detection Circuit Malfunction, Front Bank

P1317 Spark Plug Voltage Detection Circuit Malfunction, Rear Bank

P1318 Spark Plug Voltage Detection Module Reset Circuit Malfunction, Front Bank

P1319 Spark Plug Voltage Detection Module Reset Circuit Malfunction, Rear Bank

P1324 Knock Sensor Power Source Circuit Low Voltage

P1336 CKP Sensor B Range/Performance

P1337 CKP Sensor B Low Input

P1359 CKP/TDC Sensor Circuit Connector Disconnection

P1361 TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption

P1362 TDC 1 Sensor No Signal

P1366 TDC 2 Sensor Intermittent

P1367 TDC 2 Sensor No Signal

P1381 CYP Sensor A Intermittent Interruption

P1382 CYP Sensor A No Signal

P1386 CYP Sensor B Intermittent Interruption

P1387 CYP Sensor B No Signal

P1456 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System)

P1457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)

P1459 EVAP Purge Flow Switch Malfunction

P1491 EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected

P1498 EGR Valve Lift Sensor High Voltage

P1508 IAC Valve Circuit Failure

P1519 IAC Valve Circuit Failure

P1607 ECM Internal Circuit Failure A

P1608 ECM Internal Circuit Failure B

P1655 TMA or TMB Signal Line Fault

P1656 Automatic Transmission System Malfunction

P1660 A/T FI Data Line Failure

P1671 A/T FI Data Line No Signal

P1672 A/T FI Data Line Failure

P1676 Traction Control System FI Data Line No Signal

P1677 Traction Control System FI Data Line Failure

P1678 FPTDR Signal Line Failure

P1681 A/T FI Signal A Low Input

P1682 A/T FI Signal A High Input

P1686 A/T FI Signal B Low Input

P1687 A/T FI Signal B High Input

P1690 Traction Control System STB Line Failure

P1696 Traction Control Fuel Cut Signal Low Input

P1697 Traction Control Fuel Cut Signal High Input

P1705 TCM A/T Gear Position Switch Circuit Shorted

P1706 TCM A/T Gear Position Switch Circuit Open

P1753 TCM A/T Lockup Solenoid Valve "A" Fault

P1758 TCM A/T Lockup Solenoid Valve "B" Fault

P1790 TCM A/T TP Sensor Circuit Fault

P1791 TCM A/T Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault

P1753 TCM A/T ECT Sensor Circuit Fault

P1709, P1738, P1739, P1768, P1773, P1788, P1793 & P1795 Automatic Transmission System Malfunction

Got it Here

and here

I recently purchased this CRV and it's got a lot of work I'd like to do on it. The previous owner stated that it was a B20B swap as I understand the CRV usually has a B20Z in it. He also said that they may have swapped the head of the engine, but there's a sticker that says b20b that's on the head so I'm not sure. Anyways - looking at it it's clear that it's not the same as a regular CRV engine.

I'm currently trying to figure out why the fan wont kick on(fuses are good, jumped relay and fan started to spin, gotta track down the fan switch next). They put a Civic radiator inside of it on top of the old CRV radiator, and then ziptied the damn cooling fan to the radiator lol. I'll be getting rid of that civic radiator and the old CRV radiator and doing upper/lower hose, thermostat etc eventually.

So my main questions are - replacing the old CRV radiator in this(probably get cheap one off ebay?) should be fine, correct? And my question that hopefully I can resolve soon - does anyone have any clue what the hell is going on with these vacuum lines?

There's a connection for a vacuum line where 1 is marked. There is airpressure coming out of this when i hold my hand over it, it's quite noticeable.

#2 is clearly just a loop to the air intake. What is this doing??

#3 is just a hose that is connected to absolutely nothing. I can't really feel any suction coming from it or air coming out of it.

Also - the engine does not rev up to the maximum 8k on the RPM gauge. It cuts off around 6k it seems like.

Added a picture of the retarded radiator setup as well. The engine gets pretty hot when it's going up hill/idling in the heat and I think this has to do with the crappy old fans and the fact I don't think they're turning on at all. The A/C does not kick on the secondary radiator fan either and it doesn't seem like the A/C is working at the moment.

I want to know that can I upgrade the diesel engine into petrol engine, or 1000cc into 1600cc?

I am based in Maryland MD.

Guide me.

Regards,

Jk Toss

Fast-forward to yesterday and I noticed that when revving the engine beyond about 1,700 rpm or so and releasing the throttle it makes a horrible rattling/grinding noise from around the left side of the engine accompanied by a large puff of white smelly smoke from the exhaust...can't tell if the smell is "sweet"...smells bad to me.  You can see a video of me reproducing this sound here: Video of noise

The coolant was a little bit low (maybe 6-8oz) although I hadn't checked it in a while.  I did not see any milky residue under the oil filler cap or on the oil dipstick.  I did not visibly observe any bubbling under the radiator cap or the coolant reservoir (although the system wasn't full so maybe I would not have anyway).  I am purchasing a block test kit and will be doing that later today but this noise really concerns me.

Thanks in advance.