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96 accord,,no power locks


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#1 woody31

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 04:41 PM

ok on to the next issue..the power locks stopped working,,,fuse is good and there is no power to drivers side door switch,,locks do not work with pass, side switch either,,,,what is wrong,,i heard it may be the actuator.... help plz and thanks..



#2 James Matteu

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 05:16 PM

Um no power means no power leaving the fuse.

Check again.

#3 woody31

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 06:51 PM

both sides of the fuse are hot,,any more smart azz ideas??



#4 James Matteu

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 07:25 AM

Pull fuse and disconnect the control unit. Use your meter to look for the voltage drop. You are using a meter, right?

A bad actuator cannot make voltage disappear at the DS Sw.

#5 woody31

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 05:35 PM

ok james im new to working on this honda,,plz bear with me,,no i was checking fuse with test light,,when i was checking the d,s, door lock switch,,it was with a test light,,and it showed no power as in the light was not lit,,but if it uses less then 12v at the switch then no the light wont light up,,when u say disconnect the control unit are you referring to the actuator or what/?? if not the actuator plz describe in detail,,my mom gave me this car when she passed away and it means alot to me to get these lil issues fixed,,thanks for your time and replies,,mark.



#6 James Matteu

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 11:51 PM

By your reply, you might have removed the door card; but if not know that you're going to need to do this to get to the control unit. All hot connections are 12v since most power distribution is in parallel; that goes for all ssystems.


While the door card is off, the control unit is that grey box you saw attached to the door behind the panel, driver's side. I can't walk you through the pin out, you need a wiring diagram. This is before multiplexers so the ground and power distribution is what I would call "dubious".

I'll look in the morning when I'm not replying to this post off the top of my head while falling asleep, but I want to say those switches are ground interruptions. So, no voltage there wouldn't be a surprise if there is an open in the circuit.

Edited by James Matteu, 02 July 2013 - 11:51 PM.


#7 James Matteu

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 11:52 PM

I'll let you know if I have any other smart azz ideas in the morning.

#8 James Matteu

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 11:56 PM

BTW when the actuators fail the stop counter level breaks or sticks causing an over run error, sometimes shorting the inductive windings which then fails to generate sufficient EMF to open the locks (tthisis the ubiquitous buzz buzz buzz people hear as their car struggles to unlock the doors) but a short in the windings doesn't mean an open to ground and usually still will look fine on a test light.

That's why I said bad actuators don't cut power to switches, necessarily. I shouldn't have said "cannot", it's just not where I would start; suspecting bad actuators when there's no power.




That reminds me, please mention anything else that's pertinent to door locks: noises, broken wires, ...car alarms.

Edited by James Matteu, 03 July 2013 - 12:01 AM.


#9 James Matteu

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 07:53 AM

Well, unless you have no power on the white wire going to the control unit in the door, pin 14, you probably have a bad control unit.

Unless, you neglected to mention something pertinent.

Putting a test light on two of the three wires on the driver's switch should have made something happen with the door locks.

You need to use a meter to test all your connections.

Edited by James Matteu, 03 July 2013 - 10:31 AM.


#10 woody31

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 07:45 PM

i did use a fluke t5-1000 meter on the leads to the door lock switches,, showed 2 volts to the door switches,,anyboby know where to start ,,im lost,,



#11 James Matteu

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 08:29 PM

Please look at my posts. Ive told you where the control unit is and which wire to check.

#12 woody31

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 09:14 PM

no i dont see what wire i am looking for,,hence the question,,what wires do i check,,ir how do you diagnose this thing,,in simle english plz,,im not electrical savvy and i def,,dont know what i am doing,,i no its a bad combination but,,someone plz explain what to do,,thanks



#13 James Matteu

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 10:45 PM

Remove the door panel on the driver's side, there will be a grey box. I'm talking about the entire door panel, not the door handle trim you removed to probe the lock switch.

On that grey box, look for a white wire

See if there's 12v on that white wire




At this point I'm just rephrasing what've already told you to do.

If you don't know what you are looking for or what you are doing, perhaps you need to start by buying the Helm Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.

Edited by James Matteu, 05 July 2013 - 10:46 PM.


#14 woody31

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Posted 06 July 2013 - 07:01 AM

thanks for the replies and your time,,i wish i had the money,,i would get it ,,but funds are extremely tight,,so ,,,,

ill check into the next area,,if there is 12 volts,,whats next??

if there is not 12 volts whats next??

again i appreciate your taking the time ,,



#15 James Matteu

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Posted 06 July 2013 - 07:47 PM

If there's not 12v on that wire then look for an open in the wire going from the fuse to the control unit.

If there is, it gets complicated.

So start with the control box, and we'll go from there.

#16 woody31

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Posted 06 July 2013 - 08:26 PM

ok went to pick and pull today and got a slew of stuff,,i guess i will dig into it tomorrow...

 

and my dang blinkers stopped again,,,, :mad2:



#17 James Matteu

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Posted 06 July 2013 - 11:58 PM

I wouldn't suggest buying anything until you can identify the problem.

Edif: it sounded like you were buying stuff for this issue.

Edited by James Matteu, 07 July 2013 - 01:41 AM.


#18 woody31

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 04:11 PM

First a big thanks for your time and replies,,i tried the control box first as it was by far the easiest to get to. Checked the appropriate white wire and found 13 volts,,car off,,started car and was 14.5 so i was happy,,,replaced control box and it solved my issue with the locks. 

Also i replaced the hazard switch in the dash,,had a dr.pepper explode in the car several yrs ago,,it went every where and was a real pain to clean it up,,ever since the hazard switch would stick in the in posotion ,,no big deal just used a small screwdriver and pulled it out,,well it must vibrated inside,,but if you push it in just a lil the blinkers wont flash and no light flashing on the dash,,replaced switch and it works as new,,now for my next issue,,the alarm doesnt beep when you hit the button,,alarm locks the doors and works as it should ,,not sure if i want it fixed,,,lol,,,thanks again james,,i owe ya a cold one,,,cheers



#19 James Matteu

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 09:03 PM

Is it a Honda keyless entry alarm?

#20 woody31

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 10:13 PM

i dont know,,but im pretty sue it is a add on alarm,,checked and it does have a good ground but meter didnt register voltage to power wire when alarm button is pushed,,maybe a bad speaker for the alarm?? any ideas are much appreciated,,cheers