del sol b18b1 build

[fastenhard]

I bought a 94 del sol with a b18b1 swap. When I started taken it apart I found many many problems. So Im going to replace every thing.

 

So far this is what I got and all the old stuff is out.

Every thing is new.

B18 motor mounts for the del sol

All control arms

All ball joints

All wheel bearings

Slotted rotters

SS brake lines

12 lb flywheel

Stage 2 clutch

UDP

10.2 wires

Headers with Res test pipe 2.5 exhuast with blox axle back.

Ported and polished exhuast and intake ports on head.

High torque starter

Arp rod bolts

Chiped ecu, +5 degree timing, more a/f, 2 step at 3500, full throttle shift at 7000, cel crap light at 7000, redline at 7200, all sensurs disable

Aem fuel rail

Afpr

Pulled a/c

Custom shift linkage

Sts

Body kit with z fenders

17 rims

Next is intake mani and throttle body. Will be building from bottom up next winter.

 

So I'm looking for idea's as on what else should I get. What kind of intake around 300. Would cam gears help on stocks cams. Is aluminum pulleys stater/PS worth it. Could I swap any thing from a gsr that would be better.

 

Thanks for the help.

[Raley]

They pully will actually hurt you since your bottom end isnt balanced, looks like a decent setup, why did you disable sensors and whats it tuned with?

[fastenhard]

Well not all are disabled. All egr crap is, no o2s. Just the stuff I need are still there. I had a friend do it for me. Its just a base tune for a mild n/a build. He put a socket I'm for me cuz next winter I will be doing a full forged 11.1 with n2o. Worked very well in a Mazda I built.

 

As for the pulley, how would it unbalance any thing. The stock one is one peace of crap. I didn't see any thing on it to take away vibration. I put one on the Mazda and it worked good. I figured it would be better as it weighs less and its cnced. I have read about people saying there bad but I still have not read or seen a problem from them. I geuss it really dosent matter as the crank will be knife edged and balanced next year.

[cmgogo]

I bought a 94 del sol with a b18b1 swap. When I started taken it apart I found many many problems. So Im going to replace every thing.

 

So far this is what I got and all the old stuff is out.

Every thing is new.

B18 motor mounts for the del sol

All control arms

All ball joints

All wheel bearings

Slotted rotters Junk, get a set of high quality blanks, they will do better

SS brake lines Be carefull, when SS lines go, they go catastrophicly. Inspect them EVERY oil change for any abrasion, kinking, or if they look wet.

12 lb flywheel

Stage 2 clutch whos stage 2 clutch, CC, ACT, RCT, EXEDY, etc?

UDP Usualy junk, maybe free up 1 or 2 hp and make your accessories work harder, have fun getting a new alt in a year or so

10.2 wires what brand?

Headers with Res test pipe 2.5 exhuast with blox axle back. Test pipes are crap, you gain no Hp over a high flow cat, and can end up with a HUGE fine

Ported and polished exhuast and intake ports on head. Who ported it, and by how much, how polished are the intake ports? PS NEVER polish intake ports, you loose power

High torque starter I really doubt you have a high enough compression ratio to warrant that.

Arp rod bolts

Chiped ecu, +5 degree timing, more a/f, 2 step at 3500, full throttle shift at 7000, cel crap light at 7000, redline at 7200, all sensurs disable What tuning software,who tuned, and sensors disabled.... yeah sure... riiiiight

Aem fuel rail Engine bay bling, not needed unless your +400 HP

Afpr

Pulled a/c

Custom shift linkage

Sts WTFOMFGBBQSAUCE wtf is Sts, there are a hundred things with STS as an accronym.

Body kit with z fenders Rice Rice Baby

17 rims Have fun with all of that rotating mass slowing you down, not to mention the lack of traction, or ride stability

Next is intake mani and throttle body. Will be building from bottom up next winter.

 

So I'm looking for idea's as on what else should I get. What kind of intake around 300. Would cam gears help on stocks cams. Is aluminum pulleys stater/PS worth it. Could I swap any thing from a gsr that would be better.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

My overall advice, Plan your build before you do it.

 

if you want power go turbo or high comp NA, in either case you need to be looking at possible cam profiles, and adj cam gears = worthless without a cam set.

Drop your 17" rims, look into a 15 or 16 inch size, anything larger than that you really start hurting your performance/fuel economy.

Make a goal, eg; I want a high comp motor, I have 3000 dollars to do it with, so this is what my possibilities are.

Also the stock crank pulley is not 1 solid piece of metal, there is a rubber diaphram that sits between the layers that acts as a dampner for the motor. STAY AWAY FROM AFTERMARKET LIGHT WEIGHT PULLEYS IF YOU ARE BUILDING A HIGH COMP MOTOR!!!!

DSO

 

Yes it is a "D series" site, however it applies to your motor as well, i suggest you read that link.

[Hondatech87]

sounds ill you should post pics!

[fastenhard]

Ill get pics today when I get the trans in.

[fastenhard]

And can you post a link to back up your info on the pulley. I understand on why you shouldn't use one. But that's all I've seen, people saying its bad with no proof. Some thing that shows its bad. Not another person just saying its bad. And if you look at the stock pulley the rubber is right under where the belts go and its only .150 wide. So take a look at the pulley and truly think on how the pulley is taking any shock off the crank when 90% of the pulley is taking the shock before it reaches the rubber. IDK. All I know is I have used them and seen people use them with no problems.

[cmgogo]

"The old one" is proof, if you have never heard of him, then you should not be touching a honda motor.

But to be honest... Its not rocket science to see why you shouldnt. And the proof, easy, just look around for "Spun a Bearing" posts.

Your not going to find a published study on it anyways, because lets face it, the only people that will make any money in this will be the people that make the pulleys, and no one is going to invest the time or money to make a published report on why you shouldnt... because there is no money in it for them. The old one probably the best resource when it comes to honda motors.

 

Read more of his articles if you dont belive me The Old One

Also not sure if you noticed all the items i put in bold in my first reply in the quote, you may want to look into those as well.

[Raley]

The old one is a guy id love to meet

[cmgogo]

hell you know what, odds are he didnt even read the article on d-series, so you know....

 

Put a 6lb flywheel on, run a super high comp motor on pump gas, and put on that aluminum crank pulley. Go ahead, fawk if I care.

 

While your at it go ahead and run a 150 shot of nitrous through your motor at 1/2 throttle and drive down a gravel road behind a semi truck with a velocity stack on your front bumper with no filter infline. Oh and use ATF in your manual transmission too, heard that helps alot!

 

Point is, if your going to come here asking questions, and you get some advice from someone who has obviously gone down that road once or twice before you and he says "dont do it, not a good idea!" odds are you should probably listen to him, unless you are so daft that when you were a kid, even though your parents (odds are you only knew your mother) when they would say "Do not put your hand on the hot stove" you would ask them if they had "any proof that its a bad idea" and do it anyways.

 

JESUS FAWKING CHRIST WHAT IS IT WITH NOOBS ANYMORE!?!?

[fastenhard]

Well I clicked on the link and didn't see any thing about a udp.

 

As for being a noob, go look for 11.1 kl build on you tube. I sparied a 125 shot with a udp and geuss what not one problem came from it. The only thing I have to go off of is what I have done. Go ahead and type spun bearing on Google. I have not found one link about a udp being the problem or they don't even have one. Enough about this. This has been argued ever since the udp came out.

 

But it wasn't the udp I was asking about. I found a pulley kit PS/alt for a gsr. Would that fit on the b18b1? Would cam gears on the stock cams gain me any thing. As in can I adjust the stock cams for a gain. What intake Mani would be good for a n/a build but will be sparying n2o through it. And a nice TB. Are the design of the big TB good where idle wont be an issue.

 

Ill try to post pics today. I just have to put them on the computer.

 

O and one more question. Im about to put the arp studs in. It says Honda 1.2-1.8 8mm rbk. The head of the arp is way different then the stock. I assume they will be fine and work but way is the head designed like that.

[Dual-500]

The guys are telling you right on the OEM Harmonic Balancer. It's called a Harmonic Balancer because that's what it there for - what that means, is that it's purpose is to dampen vibration and subsequent harmonics in the engine. Premature bearing failure is a very plausible and likely result of changing to an Aftermarket design that is lighter and doesn't have the rubber damping component. Also, power loss if vibration is increased.

 

The link cmgogo posted explains it well.

 

For cam pulleys - I run adjustable and like them. The cam advanced 2 degrees in the D16A6 in my '91 hatchback. Increases the low end torque a bit and make it a little more driveable in town. Sacrifice is a little less hp from 5k on.

 

With the next build, I'll run adjustable cam pulley's for two reasons: 1) To be able to tweak the cam timing and 2) To compensate for the head being milled to raise compression ratio to 10:1. This build will also use stock cams.

 

Your engine isn't stock, who knows what was done to the head? If the head was milled to bump up the CR, and is has stock cam pulley's, the cam timing could be retarded if it has stock pulleys on it.

 

If you are going to play with adjustable cam timing be sure you have a clue - it could cause you some real grief if not done correctly. Probably not something a newer builder should play with.

 

EDIT: A high amp alternator and Optima battery are always nice. Good aluminum radiator is also a smart investment.

[fastenhard]

Ok so I read this thread from the start and some people need to get a clue. Don't get slotted rotors, blanks are better. Wtf are you smoking. Your saying less air flow through the brakes are better.

 

What dose sts mean. Just type it in Google and find out. Short throw shifter maybe. Idk maybe there's a unknown part that sts stands for.

 

Watch out for the stainless steel brake lines. Are you drunk or some thing. Don't worry about the rubber ones there good. The stainlees ones that hold thousands of psi are the ones to watch out for.

 

Test pipes are junk. A high flow cat is better for gains of HP. Let me geuss, you where smoking and drinking when you thought that. Anything ANYTHING that blocks air flow will result in less power. Back pressure is not your friend and never will be. Read up on it.

 

This is why I normally don't go on the forums. All this BS info. Info that has been proven wrong over in over. The udp I can understand. But BUT there's nothing out there that proves its bad. Its all theoretical. All you can do is read up on it. There's nothing out there that proves its bad. I have used it for thousands of miles with out a problem.

 

Lol and polished intake ports give you less air flow. BUT polished exhuast ports are ok. Awesome dude just awesome.

[BrIaN EG2]

want my advice.. scrap the 17 inch wheels, z3 fenders, bodykit, and slotted rotors at least..

 

bodykits are a thing of the past.. like fast and the furious kind of past.. if you want to be called a ricer go ahead but people that drive hondas with bodykits that dont follow the bodylines make me ashamed of owning a honda..

 

z3 fenders IMO are gay as aids.. what are they doing for your car? NOTHING.. theyre JUNK

 

17's on a del sol look too big IMO.. go with 16's and a slight drop and itll look TITS

 

slotted rotors for a daily is STUPID.. the purpose of a slotted rotor is to cool off the rotor under hard braking when the rotors start the "cherry" and you get brake fade.. if youre not going to be tracking your car or going in access of 150mph you DONT need slotted rotors.. you actually lose stopping distance compared to blanks when the brakes are cold if you have slotted rotors..

 

thats just a FEW things i seen that i would nix from your "build thread" when i skimmed over your OP..

 

oh and listen to corey about the pulley.. a lightened pulley no bueno!

[fastenhard]

I bought this car with the swap body kit rims. The body kit I have to keep. Half of it is molded into to the body where there are no gaps to worry about. The z3 fenders are staying. There lighter and look good with the body kit. It is slammed so the 17s look great. I will take the slower time for the look. I have done plenty of street races on blank rotors and they all ways faded. Slotted drilled rotors fiixed it and just performed better over all. And I all ready put the pulley on. Done it a few times before and going to do it again. Just like thousands of other people that had no problems.

[Dual-500]

There's a lot of internet myth around brake rotors. For whatever reason, words and phrases come into play: Don't need, stupid, waste of money, unnecessary, pointless and on and on, and it's 90% heresay and not experience talking.

 

For a street ride, in my 40+ years experience disc brake rotors are all about metalurgy. Metalurgy is what keeps them from warping. I've warped too many sets of OEM front disc rotors to recall on many types of vehicles over the years.

 

Drilled & slotted or dimpled and grooved work great on a street ride. I run grooved and dimpled front rotors on my '91 hatch - they went on after laying waste to 2 sets of OEM and warping them. I won't drive around with warped brake rotors. The new set has been on about 2 years now. Started with organic front pads with them and the bias on the brake system was way too far forward, so I changed to metallic pads and it improved it, but still too much front bias. So, I installed a set of ceramic front pads and it improved it even more. It's still biased too my in the front, but WAY better than when I started. When it's most noticeable is on wet pavement. I'll adjust it some more when I do brake maintenance with either different rear shoes or most likely change the rear drums to disc.

 

I posted a thread about he brakes and rotor changes, etc. It brought out a lot of pure BS. Crap like loosing stopping distance, etc. An improperly biased (balanced front to rear) brake system won't stop a vehicle.at the optimum (shortest) distance. Sorry, but it just won't - regardless of "Pedal pressure perception".

 

Disregard ~75% of what's posted about brakes - especially rotor design. Most that post about them have no firsthand experience and are mimicing what they have read - not genuine first hand experience - second, third, fourth, fifth hand information passed around forums. Lots of "Group Think" too of myths that simply are not accurate or at all true.

 

Smooth faced rotors will work fine on virtually any street application - that in and of itself does nothing to invalidate the performance enhancements of drilled and/oir slotted designs.

 

We don't need cold air intakes either - does that make the use of such stupid? Unnecessary? A waste of money? Of course not. Any enhancement to a braking system is a safety plus in my book and that's where one should start with any planned performance enhancing modifications.

 

How many have installed turbochargers with stock suspension and brakes? Not a path I would recommend.

[BrIaN EG2]

i have stock brakes on a fully built 500+hp gsr in my del sol.. it stops perfect.. and i have rear drums.. i use OEM blanks with ceramic pads, i have no chatter or vibrating under hard braking conditions.. i do have fade over time because they are blanks and they do get hot quick.. but ill stick with my blanks.. only way ill go drilled and slotted is if i get a brake kit ie; spoon 4 pots or project mu brake kit.. otherwise ill just keep what i got and possibly get gsr rear discs..

[DelSolSweetie]

and i have rear drums

 

 

 

 

 

 

and I didnt read the thread.. but I read what brian said about slotted rotors being pointless on street.. and i'm going to +1 that statement

 

any moron knows that drilling a hole in something makes it weaker.. which is why performance friction does dimpled now.. and the slotted rotors are more to let gas escape then 'cooling'.. it does promote heat transfer though.. as well as increase wear

 

 

and braking is more about compound of the pad then the rotor.. fluid plays a large part in it as well which people dont think about.. how you break them in has a lot to do with later performance as well.. whoever just goes to like 80 and slams on their brakes and says they are 'burned in' are morons.. they just glazed the rotors which basically makes them suck no matter what.. you put them through heat 'cycles'

[BrIaN EG2]

LMFAO sarah!!! whats wrong with rear drums? LOLOL!!!

[Raley]

Stock vs stock (civic) drums are better for stopping. Weigh less, but a pain to work on

[cmgogo]

Ok so I read this thread from the start and some people need to get a clue. Don't get slotted rotors, blanks are better. Wtf are you smoking. Your saying less air flow through the brakes are better.

 

What dose sts mean. Just type it in Google and find out. Short throw shifter maybe. Idk maybe there's a unknown part that sts stands for.

 

Watch out for the stainless steel brake lines. Are you drunk or some thing. Don't worry about the rubber ones there good. The stainlees ones that hold thousands of psi are the ones to watch out for.

 

Test pipes are junk. A high flow cat is better for gains of HP. Let me geuss, you where smoking and drinking when you thought that. Anything ANYTHING that blocks air flow will result in less power. Back pressure is not your friend and never will be. Read up on it.

 

This is why I normally don't go on the forums. All this BS info. Info that has been proven wrong over in over. The udp I can understand. But BUT there's nothing out there that proves its bad. Its all theoretical. All you can do is read up on it. There's nothing out there that proves its bad. I have used it for thousands of miles with out a problem.

 

Lol and polished intake ports give you less air flow. BUT polished exhuast ports are ok. Awesome dude just awesome.

 

Haha dude you are a tool, listen, ive been building cars (track and road both) for years

1 For daily applications blanks with a good compound is ideal, however if you want to argue go get some carbon rotors and pads. Sloted and drilled rotors chew through pads like crazy, the offer less contact path, and are more prone to warping and cracking (since i really doubt you can afford a set of project mu's or equivalent rotors)

2 Short throw shifters, your ebay special ones are sh!t, plain and simple. Every week there is atleast 1 post about how 1 has failed (broken). I personally dont use them in either my daily or track cars. But to each his own

3 Im a A&P mechanic, as well as a hydraulics tech, trust me when I warn you about stainless lines and them failing. Its not the stainless that does all the work, its the nylon core. The stainless is mainly there to help protect the core. I run stainless on my track cars, but thats only because after every track day the car is torn down and inspected. Braided lines require maintenance. You need to keep them clean (this means every month or so you need to wash them unless you live where they salt the roads, then you need to do it about once a week), inspect them monthly for chaffing, fraying, and pinholes, and spray them with a protectant every month or so.

4 Test pipes: You can not "gain" hp with a test pipe, nor a high flow cat. And if you use a properly sized cat you will loose no more power in your exhaust than you would with a test pipe. Also it is a federal crime (yes not just state) to run without a cat on your car, and its a pretty hefty fine if you get caught.

5: Porting and polishing. Polishing your exhaust is great, it allows for maximum volume, however in your intake tract you not looking for volume as much as velocity. You need to read up on fluid dynamics. There are tons of resources out there about porting and polishing, you just need to look. In your intake tract you want to even out the casting marks (as they obstruct airflow) and you can enlarge them as well (to allow more volume) however by running a mirror polish all of the air maintains a set speed, but by keeping the surfaces rough you allow for a greater velocity. Ever wonder why a golf ball has dimples??? FLUID DYNAMICS!

 

Listen man, ive given you all the info you need to start looking around, but if you want to argue and you think your right, then why the hell did you even ask questions in the first place. Obviously you know so much about building your b18 that you should be king sh!t right? Look, we told you, we told you why, we told you why not, its up to you to listen. But if you fail to heed our advice, dont come running in here bitching about how X Y and Z failed.

 

Also street racing is for retards, take it to the track.

[Dual-500]

Wow, this is getting fun now!

[BrIaN EG2]

^ nothing to say about the drilled/slotted talk?

Haha dude you are a tool, listen, ive been building cars (track and road both) for years

1 For daily applications blanks with a good compound is ideal, however if you want to argue go get some carbon rotors and pads. Sloted and drilled rotors chew through pads like crazy, the offer less contact path, and are more prone to warping and cracking (since i really doubt you can afford a set of project mu's or equivalent rotors)

2 Short throw shifters, your ebay special ones are sh!t, plain and simple. Every week there is atleast 1 post about how 1 has failed (broken). I personally dont use them in either my daily or track cars. But to each his own

3 Im a A&P mechanic, as well as a hydraulics tech, trust me when I warn you about stainless lines and them failing. Its not the stainless that does all the work, its the nylon core. The stainless is mainly there to help protect the core. I run stainless on my track cars, but thats only because after every track day the car is torn down and inspected. Braided lines require maintenance. You need to keep them clean (this means every month or so you need to wash them unless you live where they salt the roads, then you need to do it about once a week), inspect them monthly for chaffing, fraying, and pinholes, and spray them with a protectant every month or so.

4 Test pipes: You can not "gain" hp with a test pipe, nor a high flow cat. And if you use a properly sized cat you will loose no more power in your exhaust than you would with a test pipe. Also it is a federal crime (yes not just state) to run without a cat on your car, and its a pretty hefty fine if you get caught.

5: Porting and polishing. Polishing your exhaust is great, it allows for maximum volume, however in your intake tract you not looking for volume as much as velocity. You need to read up on fluid dynamics. There are tons of resources out there about porting and polishing, you just need to look. In your intake tract you want to even out the casting marks (as they obstruct airflow) and you can enlarge them as well (to allow more volume) however by running a mirror polish all of the air maintains a set speed, but by keeping the surfaces rough you allow for a greater velocity. Ever wonder why a golf ball has dimples??? FLUID DYNAMICS!

 

Listen man, ive given you all the info you need to start looking around, but if you want to argue and you think your right, then why the hell did you even ask questions in the first place. Obviously you know so much about building your b18 that you should be king sh!t right? Look, we told you, we told you why, we told you why not, its up to you to listen. But if you fail to heed our advice, dont come running in here bitching about how X Y and Z failed.

 

Also street racing is for retards, take it to the track.

 

+ muh fukkin 1 corey!! well besides the last sentence LOLOL!

[Dual-500]

^ nothing to say about the drilled/slotted talk?

 

+ muh fukkin 1 corey!! well besides the last sentence LOLOL!

"Also street racing is for retards, take it to the track." Wholeheartedly agree.

 

Drilled/slotted talk? Correct, out of respect nothing to add.

 

 

 

 

1976 Maximat V-10P Mentor & associated shop security system - "Casey" my 9th German Shepherd Dog - he's a January 2008 model.

[BrIaN EG2]

what.. the... fukc... just happened?

 

why did you post pictures of your gokarts and dog in someones build thread?