Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Soo after a couple years of not making up my mind on a project car I finally did :) Chris is getting one too

 

We pick these up Saturday

 

 

 

first is my new baby:

 

lola1.jpg

lola2.jpg

lola3.jpg

 

 

1992 Toyota Supra

Had a 7mge but the previous owner tried to start it up after sitting and tore up the rings so it lost compression in 3 & 4.. currently has a 7mgte with the turbo removed but does have a slight knock

sunroof

automatic currently

TEMS

interior is is great shape cept the leather ripped off the passenger seat from the previous owner letting his dog sit in the seat all the time.. foam is still good though

bumper is a little messed up but nothing serious.. only rust is a spec of surface rust by the door handle

the back rims come with the car.. they are '93 rims.. the tires were bad so the guy put the steelies on the back

 

 

 

This shall be Chris's:

liz1.jpg

liz2.jpg

liz3.jpg

 

1987 Toyota Supra

Automatic

No rust

interior is in great shape

a/c works

no engine problems.. doesnt smoke or anything.. almost no noise from the motor

 

 

 

 

we are also getting an extra tranny and 2 extra motors

 

 

 

 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

these fat ass cars weigh 3500+lbs

 

 

 

update on '92:

 

motor in the car is a 7mgte with the turbo stuff removed.. runs.. sounds great at idle.. has a slight knock at higher rpms

 

the original motor, a 7mge, doesnt have compression in two cylinders.. the story of that is when the guy bought it he told the kid he was buying it from NOT to crank it cause it'd been sitting for about a year.. well kid cranked it

 

so i ordered the new rings today for $20 (closeout sale at rockauto FTW)

 

going to take out the turbo motor and drop the orginal back in.. hopefully have a reliable car to play in for a while

 

 

 

pick up cars saturday..more pics after a good scrubbing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinda hard to.. they make 2 CF pieces for them which are really CF covered fiberglass

 

have to keep majority of interior and full glass to not get moved up a class in Redline

Dod

 

I guess you could always get creative in swapping out drive line pieces with ligher materials, but that usually requires custom fabrication and can get really expensive. Did you purchase these mainly to compete with?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yah.. its going to be streetable but be built to mainly drift but be competitive in road racing (redline and nasa probably)

 

its going to get a 1jz.. they make CF/aluminum driveshafts which it will be getting

 

interior will get worked on a bit.. the fully electronic seats in both cars weigh 50-70 lbs a piece i believe.. could be heavier

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yah.. its going to be streetable but be built to mainly drift but be competitive in road racing (redline and nasa probably)

 

its going to get a 1jz.. they make CF/aluminum driveshafts which it will be getting

 

interior will get worked on a bit.. the fully electronic seats in both cars weigh 50-70 lbs a piece i believe.. could be heavier

 

 

Do you have seats picked out for it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well yah I already planned on that

 

:p

 

 

should be easy.. foam is still in very good condition.. just the material got pulled off

 

True, shouldn't be too bad, just depends on which seat recover option you go for. It should be nice once it's done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah pretty much. and its a lot more rev happier than the 2jz.

its like comparing a b16 and h22. they are both reliable and can take numerous beatings, the h22(2jz) just has a bit more grunt to it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah pretty much. and its a lot more rev happier than the 2jz.

its like comparing a b16 and h22. they are both reliable and can take numerous beatings, the h22(2jz) just has a bit more grunt to it

 

Get your honda trash out of my thread.. comparing a b16 to a 1jz.. that should be a sin... sinner

 

 

 

Is the 1jz as bulletproof as the 2jz is?

 

I'd dont know that much about toyota cars, I've just been around a couple when they put down 1500hp on the dyno. smile.gif Was sick.

 

 

the 1jz stock rods are actually stronger then the 2jz because they are a bit shorter.. one guy put down 700 at the wheel with a bent 1jz rod (ill see if i can find the thread again.. had pics and proof).. besides that and the 1jz being a little more rev happy there arnt too many differences (the 1jz does not have as much torque either but its not impossible to get torque out of them).. the 2jz has more displacement and can get more power but i dont need a dyno queen lol I can put the 2jz cams in the 1jz if i feel like it.. head/block of each one bolts right up to eachother also

 

 

the 1jz is becoming very popular in drifting in japan.. they are putting it in everything (bimmers included)

 

 

my problem is I want to keep the twin set up but put down decent numbers on a dyno just cause (probably only run it about 500-550 at the wheel.. it is a tank after all).. most people go to single turbos right away and im not a turbo expert so i dont even know where to start with finding efficient twins that make good enough power.. people who have twins normally just tweak the setup up a little bit but dont build them and are plenty happy with the power they have.. mine will probably get new everything just so i KNOW nothing will happen to it... road course/drag/drift is not gonig to be easy on that motor lol

 

most people also dont drift or do any road racing in their mkiii's cause they are either cheap, scared, or think cause its 'heavy' it wont work.. but the few people who ARE doing it are doing it well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get your honda trash out of my thread.. comparing a b16 to a 1jz.. that should be a sin... sinner

 

 

 

 

 

 

the 1jz stock rods are actually stronger then the 2jz because they are a bit shorter.. one guy put down 700 at the wheel with a bent 1jz rod (ill see if i can find the thread again.. had pics and proof).. besides that and the 1jz being a little more rev happy there arnt too many differences (the 1jz does not have as much torque either but its not impossible to get torque out of them).. the 2jz has more displacement and can get more power but i dont need a dyno queen lol I can put the 2jz cams in the 1jz if i feel like it.. head/block of each one bolts right up to eachother also

 

 

the 1jz is becoming very popular in drifting in japan.. they are putting it in everything (bimmers included)

 

 

my problem is I want to keep the twin set up but put down decent numbers on a dyno just cause (probably only run it about 500-550 at the wheel.. it is a tank after all).. most people go to single turbos right away and im not a turbo expert so i dont even know where to start with finding efficient twins that make good enough power.. people who have twins normally just tweak the setup up a little bit but dont build them and are plenty happy with the power they have.. mine will probably get new everything just so i KNOW nothing will happen to it... road course/drag/drift is not gonig to be easy on that motor lol

 

most people also dont drift or do any road racing in their mkiii's cause they are either cheap, scared, or think cause its 'heavy' it wont work.. but the few people who ARE doing it are doing it well

 

you can suck it. i was making an analogy/comparison or whatever they are called :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.