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wire vtec to ecu


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ok first i have to ask did you which the ecu and did you do use a new wire harness,

 

if you put a new wire harness in i dont know how to help you

 

if you use the stock wire harness which you can bc they are both d motor you have to wire vtec up to your new ecu. so the main thing is did you change them out

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sorry for the lack of info.im using my same d15b7 harness and got the ecu with the d16z6 motor i just don't know how to wire the vtec to the ecu.some guy told me it was 2 wires but not sure i just put the motor in.oh yeah can i use my old distributor?thanks guys for your fast responses

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ok i think it is 2 wires and i hope you still hvae the wire connter for the vtec solenoid if not you need to find one and then just run your wires from the vtec solenoid fthought the fire wall and hook it up to the ecu..... srry i cant help you more im not sure were you hook it up at but a shop that is good with swap should do it for a good price sorry i cant help you more

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Pictures have been found, and added in a zip file at the bottom of this post. You can download it, and sort through them. I am in the process of reintegrating them into the post, this may take a day or so...got work o.0

 

 

This is something that I see come up, and sometimes people get confused by the written instructions, so here's one with pics. This can also be used for wiring just about anything you need, like a knock sensor, IABs, o2 sensor, whatever. I HIGHLY suggest have a manual with a wiring diagram and the pinouts, for your ECU, you don't want to screw up now that your motors in right?

 

Ok, assuming you have a vtec motor in a non vtec car and you need to wire in vtec y0! here it is...

 

Our demonstrator model is a 95 CX with a OBD I B16A. So you have your motor in the car, and you are using XXXX engine harness, as long as you have the plugs (usually come with motors harness, even JDM, just remove the whole thing from sensor/solenoid, to canon plug from the harness)) you're good. First you need to run the wires...

 

BLU/BLK and GRN/YEL from here...

 

68954646oi3.jpg

 

To the canon plugs (shock tower connectors)...

 

51043409ny5.jpg

 

Now, if you are using the vtec harness there's no need to remove them as there should be nothing plugged into the connector on the other side (on a vtec car, such as a VX, or 92-93, this part is over, as it will have them already) the wires should match up to empty slots. But if there is something on the other side, simply remove them (vtec wires) to an empty slot with nothing on the otherside. For the cabin side of the canon plug, you need to get the pin from the canon plug, to the ECU (junkyard). you need to get enough pins from a junker to connect whatever you are connecting.

 

Anyway now you have the wires going from the vtec solenoid, to the canon plug and out the other side (note, I have both YEL/BLK, be smart and use different colors so you don't have to guess which is which at the ECU)...

 

69306172am2.jpg

 

Now, make sure the wire coming out of the cabin side of the canon plugs is long enough to go through the firewall, and to the ECU.

 

For the ECU connections same as the canon plugs, you need to acquire the pins. You can pull these out of a junker also. All the pins from the same generation are the same (there are two different sizes in each plug, you'll be using the smaller ones), and I was told that they are all the same from any model, and probably all generations, but I won't swear to it.

 

Here's how to remove the pins from the ECU...

 

87592210el5.jpg

 

If you want to take the time, you can pull the wire al the way from the ECU plug, to the canon plug, but I just splice a couple together, it saves a lot of time.

 

Here is what you should have...

 

89616918aj2.jpg

 

The ECU slots on the non vtec models should have nothing in place, just a hole. At this point you should know where the pins go BLU/BLK (in the engine harness, maybe different if you used a different color wire) to D6, GRN/YEL (same as the other) to A4, so what are you waiting for, plug them in already...

 

39109390ql7.jpg

 

Any time you need to splice wires together, I suggest soldering them when done, if you can't, at least use a good male/female plug, I like these... (soldering your wires...no, really, do it)

 

26130103gw0.jpg

 

Now, you should have vtec y0!, drive around let your car warm up and then let it rip (provided you aren't still throwing a CEL code). If everything is kosher, bolt in your ECU, wrap everything up, and blend it into your harness for that nice clean look.

 

You can also by pass the canon plug, and run a hardwire all the way from sensor to ECU, this works to, but doesn't look as clean.

 

Here is some more wiring pics, to give you some ideas. In the first one, I am using a VX harness (5 wire o2) on a B16A (four wire o2) in a CX (1 wire o2) so I had some issues smile.gif. Anyway, after figuring out what wires were what, I used my handy connectors and connected...

 

27244629kk5.jpg

 

For the switched 12V, I used the plug full of YEL/BLKs on the driver side, that goes to the main relay (thanks Poison), and spliced into one of the wires, then ran it to the o2 taping it into the harness once it was all connected, running right...

 

10pa2.jpg

 

If anyone found a mistake, or has something to add feel free. I hope this can help someone that like me isn't real confident in their wiring abilities. All in all you are only limited by how much work you want to do. You can go for a quick get it going job, or undo your whole harness and rebuild it better than OEM.

 

A funny antidote that happened during this, so, my car even though it was a CX had a VX motor in it, so it was wired for vtec, sort of. Anyway there was no vtec kicking in, and I was throwing CEL 21, so I looked, and realized the guy that had swapped in the VX motor, had mix up the vtec wires, so I unplugged the canon plug and made sure what was where, and undid the wires, and switch the two of them right. Well, I get in the car and go to start it, and it's cranking, but nothing, like it has no fuel. So I was like "frack" pull the codes. I get 6, 15, 21, 41, so I am thinking that switching the wires really screwed something up, so I go and re wire them like they were, and am looking at it, and then realize, duh, I didn't plug the canon plug back in tongue.gif , So I plug it in and get no codes, I was right, they were backwards, so I went for a cruise to make sure all CELs were gone, hammered it, and all is good.

 

Pics are back.

 

the link to the site in case the pictures dont pop up.. http://hondaswap.com...ire-vtec-40811/

 

EDIT:: CHA CHING!!! you are welcome kind sir.. thatll be $50 please :) lol

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Thanks so very much Brian as soon as it stops freaking raining ill see if I can't get her rolling.I saw those pics before different kind of engine confused me a bit.

oh yeah brian you wouldn't by any chance happen to know anything about swapping the knock sensor (can i use the ecu that came with my d16z6 motor?at least some guy where i live told me something about the 2 vtec wires(which u already solved.............you the man..........and something about the knock sensor forgot what he said...sorry for all the dumb questions all new to this (honda swaps)just untill i can afford a true swap...

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im pretty sure you can use the D16Z6 ecu.. i dont see why there would be complications..

 

i have a P28 in my car, like i said before the p28 already has a knock sensor but im not sure about wiring it up.. mine was just straight plug and play..

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im pretty sure you can use the D16Z6 ecu.. i dont see why there would be complications..

 

i have a P28 in my car, like i said before the p28 already has a knock sensor but im not sure about wiring it up.. mine was just straight plug and play..

 

the p28 does not have knock sensor capability.

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just got her running still have'nt hooked up the vtec and aint running right maybe thats why. any news on the knock sensor is it true the p28 doesnt have knock sensor capability. it starts but has like a slight sputter.all my hair is almost gone :crazy:

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ok just put plugs,wires,distributor,cap,rotor, hooked up vtec now no engine light so i guess its right but do i still need to wire up the knock sensor?still a slight putter.next is to change fuel filter.maybe since the motor was sitting for a while the injectors are clogged,or since i just put a distributor in it might not be on time all help would be greatly appreciated.also a dumb ? is a dizzy a distributor?don't laugh remember honda swap noobie :blush:

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so why does everyone and their mother use a p28 when they swap? just wondering

 

 

 

yeah p28's don't have a knock sensor..They're widely used because they are much easier to find than any other vtec ecus...p72's were limited to really only 2 years, p30's 94-95,

and p28's were found in coupes, hatches, si sols, 4-drs,..for 4'ish years.

 

Supposedly p30's have the best code to write with for tuning..However I think that data maybe outdated a lil since its from like '04 on pgmfi.org/d-series.org.

 

but you can take any non obd-1 ecu and convert that to a vtec ecu in a few minutes..And even less time to convert an A/T P28 to a M/T P28.. So it's retarded to purchase a p28 for for peoples asking price of sometimes $80+

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Also to the OP Yes you can use your d15b7 distributor with the d16z6 engine...However you will have to modify it slightly. What you need to do is mock it up. @ mounting 'ear's on the dizzy should line up perfectly. The one that does not line up you will want to grind off.

 

Note: The dizzy is only supposed to install one way into the cam shaft, however you can easily/accidentally install it 180* out...Onve it's lined up it should slide into place like butta..Also it's possible that the lil gear on the dizzy shaft that inserts onto the cam shaft will be 180* out with TDC on the actual engine and firing order..No big deal, remove the otter c-clip pull out the pin then rotate the gear and put back together..

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Thanks man my headache is almost gone all I need is a iac valve now cause I took the old one off my old engine d15b7 and put it on my d16z6 I guess that's why it slightly sputters and my fuel filter is brand new and didn't know it was different.is the fuel pump also different?but seriously thanks bro

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Thanks man my headache is almost gone all I need is a iac valve now cause I took the old one off my old engine d15b7 and put it on my d16z6 I guess that's why it slightly sputters and my fuel filter is brand new and didn't know it was different.is the fuel pump also different?but seriously thanks bro

 

the iacv's are identical as well. Did you clean it prior to installation? also there's potential for an issue with your fitv...Fuel pump is the same..

 

Generally 85% of the time honda parts are universal even between different series of engines.

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yes a couple different D series engines have knock sensors , lol , jesus man. dont post something if you dont know , simple as that. doesnt help. you wanna wire a knock sensor , run a wire from the knock sensor , which is on the back of the engine under #2 cylinder close to where head meets block , to the ecu through the firewall , it goes to D3 pin at the ecu. looking at the ecu plugs while still plugged in where wires enter them , with clips up. furthest plug to right , D plug. upper row of wires , 2nd from left.

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yes a couple different D series engines have knock sensors , lol , jesus man. dont post something if you dont know , simple as that. doesnt help. you wanna wire a knock sensor , run a wire from the knock sensor , which is on the back of the engine under #2 cylinder close to where head meets block , to the ecu through the firewall , it goes to D3 pin at the ecu. looking at the ecu plugs while still plugged in where wires enter them , with clips up. furthest plug to right , D plug. upper row of wires , 2nd from left.

 

i am almost to afraid to ask how you know all this....is your brain like a super computer or something?

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i am almost to afraid to ask how you know all this....is your brain like a super computer or something?

 

practice buddy thats all. ive swapped MANY cars man , lol. built them , tuned them , you name it. im simply a fart smeller , err smart fellow. hehe

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