MisterDavid Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I've got a 1996 2.2 4cyl vtech. When the gas is gently pushed, like to maintain speed during street driving, there is a vibration in the engine. It feels like one of the cylinders is not firing properly. When you push further down on the gas, the vibration works out and the engine runs fine. In idle there is also no vibration. Plugs are new and gaped correctly. Wires are new, distributor cap is new. PCV valve is new. EGR valve was removed and cleaned. I'm running out of options. Its either a vacuum leak somewhere, a blocked injector or I'm not getting compression. Anyone have other suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 get seafoam.. follow directions to run it in your gas and your intake system and are you sure its in your engine could be a bad mount/mounts or a bubble in your tire or alignment or tire balance or even air pressure or some other suspension issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDavid Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 get seafoam.. follow directions to run it in your gas and your intake system and are you sure its in your engine could be a bad mount/mounts or a bubble in your tire or alignment or tire balance or even air pressure or some other suspension issue I'm 99 % positive its not the tires or suspension. Mainly because its a consistent issue regardless of speed. The vibration is the same if I'm doing 20 or 70. If I apply a little pressure to gas I feel it, if I push a little more, the vibration disappears. I know the rear motor mount is starting to go bad, but I only feel that when I'm at idle. But, everyone knows where THAT mount is, and I'm not going to attempt that one on my own. Of course, I also know there is an Engine Mount Control module on the firewall that may be causing issues with that mount...but again, that mount is only a problem at idle. So hit me with something else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 if a mount is a problem at idle its a problem always Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDavid Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 if a mount is a problem at idle its a problem always Ah but would it set off my check engine light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 if u have a check engine light why the hell have you not just checked what code it is throwing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Yeah, pull the code. And in the future try the following... I've got a 1996 2.2 4cyl vtech. When the gas is gently pushed, like to maintain speed during street driving, there is a vibration in the engine. It feels like one of the cylinders is not firing properly. When you push further down on the gas, the vibration works out and the engine runs fine. In idle there is also no vibration. Plugs are new and gaped correctly. Wires are new, distributor cap is new. PCV valve is new. EGR valve was removed and cleaned. I'm running out of options. Its either a vacuum leak somewhere, a blocked injector or I'm not getting compression. Anyone have other suggestions? Oh, and BTW, I have a CEL on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 http://www.hondaforums.com/index.php?/topic/35215-cel-codes/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDavid Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 if u have a check engine light why the hell have you not just checked what code it is throwing Because I HAVE checked the codes. I don't remember which number it was since I had it done at autozone two weeks ago. One of the cylinders was misfiring. That is WHY I changed out the plugs, wires and cap. Problem went away for about 3 days. And now I'm back to square one, asking all the pros out there for a second opinion. Come on guys, give me just a little credit here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Check you plugs again. Inpsecting the firing surface should shed some light on what is going on in the combustion chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 are you getting any blow by did you mess with the timing have you checked all grounds/wires check the code AGAIN.. could be different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDavid Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 Check you plugs again. Inpsecting the firing surface should shed some light on what is going on in the combustion chamber. I checked the surfaces when I made sure the gaps were right. All the plugs are wearing evenly. They are all brand new too, so the wear is very light on all them so it may be a little soon to tell. Del Sol, Timing is good. I think I'm going to check the ignition coil tonight. On a side note. 1) I bought Seafoam. 2) I checked my engine mounts again and a bolt on one had vibrated lose, sticking out about 2inches from the chassis. Dunno how I missed it. Tightened it back up and the idle vibration disappeared (like I figured it would). However, it didn't eliminate the main problem. Did make it slightly less noticable though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 ...They are all brand new too, so the wear is very light on all them so it may be a little soon to tell.... You aren't looking for normal wear, you are looking for something out of the ordinary. Something out of the ordinary should show up quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 On a side note. 1) I bought Seafoam. 2) I checked my engine mounts again and a bolt on one had vibrated lose, sticking out about 2inches from the chassis. Dunno how I missed it. Tightened it back up and the idle vibration disappeared (like I figured it would). However, it didn't eliminate the main problem. Did make it slightly less noticable though... I rock.. I Know i was going to say do a compression check but if your not getting blow by and it went away for days idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDavid Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 I rock.. I Know i was going to say do a compression check but if your not getting blow by and it went away for days idk Ok, So I recoded the car. Says the EGR valve is clogged...which is REALLY annoying considering I pulled and cleaned it last week trying to find the problem. If I have to replace it, its gonna suck. Too damn expensive. I also tested the ignition coil. Manual says the resistance on the primary is supposed to be .4-.6ohms. I got a .7 Think I ought to go ahead and replace it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 I got something similar on mine, you can replace it or keep rocking, your choice. Sometimes, cleaning the EGR can knock carbon down into the passages. Clear the code and see if it returns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20011.7vtech Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 did you check the balance shaft and belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_frost Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 I see this topic is about a month old, but I figured I'd add my two cents I have a 96 accord as well, but it's the non-vtec type. A few months ago, I pulled engine codes for cylinders 1,2, and 4 misfiring. I tested my ignition coil, which is external, and found a resistence of 1.6. I thought I'd found my problem, but the ignition coil I bought from the store had the same resistance. Apparently, resistance can be fickle, and I don't know if I'd rely on it alone. Either way, though, when I took the old coil out, it had a huge crack in the side, so it needed to be replaced anyway. When I drove it around, the cel was off and there was no misfiring. Of course, it died on me later in the test drive, but that's because of other stuff I had to fix (EGR valve for one things). I didn't actually remove the codes, and I thought the computer was supposed to see the car without problems for a few trips at similar conditions, but it still goes to say something when my scan tool picked up zero codes after I changed the coil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 ...I didn't actually remove the codes, and I thought the computer was supposed to see the car without problems for a few trips at similar conditions, but it still goes to say something when my scan tool picked up zero codes after I changed the coil And such is the beauty of OBD-2 (constant scanning) versus OBD-1 (scan and store) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turtlehead Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 It sounds like you might be experiencing the old 1,800 rpm buzz issue (Honda had a service bulletin on this many years ago). See if it is happening between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm under light load (say going up a slight hill around 35 to 40 mph while lightly pressing the accelerator for one example). If so replace the exhaust doughnuts gaskets and spring bolts on both sides of the short A pipe between the cat and the header. This issue is most noticable in manual transmission vehicles but it is still common in the autos and is specific to this type of exhaust system. I hope this is the issue because it is an easy fix. I find that I have to replace mine about every 80k to 100k (mine is a manual). Sorry for posting to such an old thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turtlehead Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 BTW, Honda calls it the 1,800 rpm buzz, but it actually feels like and sounds like engine vibration... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonkkids Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 i am telling you it is the mounts..mine did exact same thing...changed mounts= no vibration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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