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D15B idle problems


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#1 Ketnity151

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 06:56 PM

a knocking rod caused me to have to pull my Z6 out, so i replaced it with a japanese D15B vtec motor out of my civic that had a bad tranny.. just finished getting everything wired up and all the hoses hooked up, and after about 10 minutes of fiddling around, got it cranked up.. well,when the Z6 was running, it started having the problem of revving from 1000 to 2100 RPM at idle when warm, and the D15 had the same problem but when it was cold.. to my understanding (correct me if im wrong on something): 1.. there are 2 Idle Air control valves, one for warming up, and one for when its warmed up.. 2.. the one for warming up is the Fast Idle Valve under the throttle body, and the other is the Electronic Air Control Valve on the backside of the intake manifold next to the throttle position sensor.. correct so far? SO... i figured that since i put the Z6 intake manifold onto the D15, i left the Fast Idle Valve, and swapped out the Electronic Air Control Valve on the backside of the intake manifold.. well, didnt work.. whats its doing is: when it starts from cold, it revs really high, just under 3000 RPM for about a minute, then drops to 1000 and starts revving up to 2100 over and over, and never stops even after its warmed up... i tried disconnected the electrical connector on the Electronic Air Control Valve on the backside, and it immediately dropped down to around 1100 RPM, but revves slightly between 1100 and 1200 pretty fast... so do i just need to go ahead and get both new idle air controls? or maybe is there a way to try and fix the ones i got, i have 2 of each.. and i priced them, one is around $80, the other is around $180, tryin to save some money here too..... any help is appreciated

Edited by Ketnity151, 27 October 2009 - 07:44 PM.


#2 Ketnity151

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 12:36 AM

ok, i took off the intake tube, and theres 2 air ports before the butterfly, when i cover the top port with my finger it idles perfectly normal.... what do you suppose that means? if i cover up that port hole with some electric tape or somethin, will that hurt anything until i can budget out enough for a new fast idle air valve and electronic idle air valve? and im gonna go ahead and put in a new PCV valve while im at it since theyre cheap...

#3 DelSolSweetie

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 01:28 PM

1st clean the IAC.. thats what mine was doing.. if you wanna check it wait for the car to warm up and then unplug it.. if it doesnt change anything then the IAC is dirty or bad


also make sure all the wires are hooked up to the right place

when i swapped the ZC in mine the z6 has an extra circle plug that the ZC doesnt have.. and well someone plugged it up wrong so it was like the IAC not being plugged in at all

also make sure the MAP and the TPS are hooked up correctly.. if they are switched it can make the car idle funny

and i was told by the honda know all guy around my town to NEVER touch the screw under the TB until you've checked everything else

#4 Ketnity151

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 10:53 AM

i sprayed the all 4 of the idle air controls, electronic and fast idle, filled em all up with cleaner and let em sit for a few minutes then dumped em out and let em dry.. tried all sorts of cominations with all of em, nothin worked, so im thinkin theyre ust all bad... but it is a 15 year old car, so.... but for now, i covered the top port hold inside the TB with electric tape, which makes it idle fine.. but as far as that screw, back before i had to rebuild the engine, i turned it just a tad bit cuz the throttle plate would stick cuz it would completely close and get hung up inside, but it was running fine like that, not a bit of difference besides being able to slightly give it throttle from a dead stop.. and also, there were no extra plugs or anything left over, and i took pictures of everything for references.. plus everything pretty much reaches right to where it plugs up.. ill just save up $250 for them damn idle controls.. or maybe wonder if i can find one in the junkyard here.. but with my luck theyd be bad too lol

#5 DelSolSweetie

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 11:52 AM

its going to be very low odds that ALL the sensors are bad on the car when there are plenty of 20 year old cars that are fine

i would double check to make sure everything is plugged up right first

http://www.honda-tec...d.php?t=2620486


^same problem

Top Hole = FITV + Air boost



i would make sure the iac is clean and plugged in right also.. but the fitv is what was wrong for him

Edited by DelSolSweetie, 29 October 2009 - 11:55 AM.