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How to Tune a Car Amp


dealrocker

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The tuning process for a car's amplifier is the most important process after installation, and this is done by turning the amplifier down, turning the radio to three-quarters volume, and then turning the amplifier up until it sounds good. Find out how to tune a car amplifier so there isn't any distortion with help from a car sound system designer in this free video on car audio tips.

 

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The tuning process for a car's amplifier is the most important process after installation, and this is done by turning the amplifier down, turning the radio to three-quarters volume, and then turning the amplifier up until it sounds good. Find out how to tune a car amplifier so there isn't any distortion with help from a car sound system designer in this free video on car audio tips.

 

 

 

Or you can tune it the correct way with a voltage meter ;)

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how do you adjust the amp with a voltage meter?? whats the correct way and what outputs would I be looking for a good tune on the amp?

 

this is gay im hvae never heard of tuning a amp with a volt gage i would like to know and here is something to think about just do it by ear to were it sounds good dude. its not hard

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why tune with a voltmeter? Just do it the old fashion way

 

Turn the gain on the amp all the way down

turn deck up til it starts to distort, then back it off a little bit

then slowly increase the gain on your amp untill it is the loudest you will ever want to listen to it

 

Done.

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o.k. ill edumicate

 

 

The LAZY half ass way of doing it is the 3/4 turn trick. IT IS IMPROPER

 

The Gain on amp is NOT a volume knob. Rather, its a octal level that is suppose to be set to match the voltage on your head units inputs.

 

So now that we know that. . on to tuning the amp

 

When you start, make sure everything is installed properly. Make sure everything is in phase. Make sure all eq is set to flat, and soundprocessors off. Make sure all crossovers are off. Burn a cd with a 50hz tone. Then disconnect all of your wires leading to your speakers. Get a Digital Volt Meter. Then you have to do some math. Take the output to "ONE" channel of the amp (example, if I have a 50x4 amp, take 50) and then multiply it by how many ohms it will be running. ( Example, if I have a 50x4 (rms) amp that runs at 4ohms, multiply by 4). Then take the square root of that number. That will be the voltage that you will be looking to get from the amp.

 

Now hook up the+ and - to of the volt meter the corresponding terminals on one channel of the amp. Put the cd in and turn it to 3/4 volume. now slowly raise the gain on the amp until the # you got from the math problem, matches the # on the volt meter. Then set all other speakers in your system that same way.

 

For crossovers, I always use the crossovers on my h/u. I generally go with 80hz highpass at 18/db octave for front speakers, and 80hz low pass at 24db/octave for subs. DONT turn on the bass boost, or BBE or any of that junk, that just mixes signals and makes it sound worse.

 

this is gay im hvae never heard of tuning a amp with a volt gage i would like to know and here is something to think about just do it by ear to were it sounds good dude. its not hard

 

Or you just be "gay" and take this dudes advice. .. no matter to me

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I might try it just to see if it sounds any better (honestly tho my system sounds dead on to me, gotta love focals)

So if your running bridged (6 channel amp bridged to 3 channels)

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I might try it just to see if it sounds any better (honestly tho my system sounds dead on to me, gotta love focals)

So if your running bridged (6 channel amp bridged to 3 channels)

 

everyone should try it. And instead of some people bashing what i say, they can come back and say sorry. Then tell me how awesome I am for making their crap sound better

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

j/k you dont have to do any of that. . . . .

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When you start, make sure everything is installed properly. Make sure everything is in phase. Make sure all eq is set to flat, and soundprocessors off. Make sure all crossovers are off. Burn a cd with a 50hz tone. Then disconnect all of your wires leading to your speakers. Get a Digital Volt Meter. Then you have to do some math. Take the output to "ONE" channel of the amp (example, if I have a 50x4 amp, take 50) and then multiply it by how many ohms it will be running. ( Example, if I have a 50x4 (rms) amp that runs at 4ohms, multiply by 4). Then take the square root of that number. That will be the voltage that you will be looking to get from the amp.

 

Now hook up the+ and - to of the volt meter the corresponding terminals on one channel of the amp. Put the cd in and turn it to 3/4 volume. now slowly raise the gain on the amp until the # you got from the math problem, matches the # on the volt meter. Then set all other speakers in your system that same way.

 

For crossovers, I always use the crossovers on my h/u. I generally go with 80hz highpass at 18/db octave for front speakers, and 80hz low pass at 24db/octave for subs. DONT turn on the bass boost, or BBE or any of that junk, that just mixes signals and makes it sound worse.

 

Very interesting, I'm gonna have to give this a shot, but what would I do when I have an EQ with its own volume knob?

 

Current: Head-unit (3/4) > EQ (1/2) > Amp

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Very interesting, I'm gonna have to give this a shot, but what would I do when I have an EQ with its own volume knob?

 

Current: Head-unit (3/4) > EQ (1/2) > Amp

 

the EQ should be set flat.

 

are you sure have an actual "volume" knob on your eq? Or is it just a +/- octal db gain?

 

If this is the case, there should be a bypass button on your EQ where you can run it passively just for the purpose of tuning. Once the system is tuned, you can tweak your EQ settings back to where you want them to be.

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the EQ should be set flat.

 

are you sure have an actual "volume" knob on your eq? Or is it just a +/- octal db gain?

 

If this is the case, there should be a bypass button on your EQ where you can run it passively just for the purpose of tuning. Once the system is tuned, you can tweak your EQ settings back to where you want them to be.

 

There doesn't seem to be any bypass on the unit I have, it's a Clarion Eqs746. I don't know if it's just a gain but it does say volume, ideas?

 

EQS-746.png

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looks to be a 12db gain

 

The 'volume' knob on your eq should only allow you to turn the volume up to the maximum level on the head unit

 

So i would just turn the head unit to 3/4 volume and set the eq level to max, maybe just back off it a 1/4 turn or so to kill some of the dirty noise. Just be sure to set everything to flat, and turn off any "LOUD" or db gain functions.

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looks to be a 12db gain

 

The 'volume' knob on your eq should only allow you to turn the volume up to the maximum level on the head unit

 

So i would just turn the head unit to 3/4 volume and set the eq level to max, maybe just back off it a 1/4 turn or so to kill some of the dirty noise. Just be sure to set everything to flat, and turn off any "LOUD" or db gain functions.

 

Coolio, I'll give it a shot sometime soon, thanks.

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Or you can tune it the correct way with a voltage meter ;)

Actually, the CORRECT way is to use an O-scope. ;)

 

But yes the multi-meter is the prefered option for one who doesn't have axcess to an O-scope. And also to note, Crossovers ON. When you change the freqs the amp is playing it will also change the power. Example: 100 watts from 20Hz to 20kHz vs 80Hz to 3000Hz, the 20-20k is playing the full 10 octaves to distribute the power to, were as the 80-3000 has fewer octaves therefore more power to those freqs. I would assume that he stated xovers off du to the 50Hz tuning freq. I used 60Hz, 1000Hz, and 5000Hz.

 

I run a 3-way front end and I use a specific freq for each component.

 

 

I know I'm new here, but that doesn't take away from the 17yrs of car audio installation I have under my belt.

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Actually, the CORRECT way is to use an O-scope. ;)

 

But yes the multi-meter is the prefered option for one who doesn't have axcess to an O-scope. And also to note, Crossovers ON. When you change the freqs the amp is playing it will also change the power. Example: 100 watts from 20Hz to 20kHz vs 80Hz to 3000Hz, the 20-20k is playing the full 10 octaves to distribute the power to, were as the 80-3000 has fewer octaves therefore more power to those freqs. I would assume that he stated xovers off du to the 50Hz tuning freq. I used 60Hz, 1000Hz, and 5000Hz.

 

I run a 3-way front end and I use a specific freq for each component.

 

 

I know I'm new here, but that doesn't take away from the 17yrs of car audio installation I have under my belt.

 

O-scope isnt something that the average joe blow has laying around his garage lol. A volt meter on the other hand. . .

 

I stated 50hz because most people are just looking at tuning the amp for their sub. and MOST people here run sealed enclosures because they are mis-informed and seem to think that sealed enclosures provide more accurate bass and gets louder lol

 

OH, and they think stiffening caps are the end to all your power problems as well. .

 

And even had one guy tell me he was breaking windshields with 2 JL w3's off 1500 watts. . well. . you get the idea

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tuned via VM, sounds about the same actually haha, i ended up being about 2.5v originally off from where i needed to be. So I have a little more flexability in volume control but thats about it.

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tuned via VM, sounds about the same actually haha, i ended up being about 2.5v originally off from where i needed to be. So I have a little more flexability in volume control but thats about it.

 

Tuned mine up too this afternoon, 2v too low ended up being about a hair lower on the gain, pretty nifty

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Oh the stories I've heard about breaking glass..... The same kid that was going on about breaking his back window (off of two 10" MTX BlueThunder subs back in '94) was going on about how hard his system hit. To quote "It hits so hard it puts my cigarette out". Yea....OK.

 

 

Caps have their place, but it's far and few between. I'm discussing this right now in my electronics class. Working on that Mechanical Engineering degree after being out of school for 12 years. But.... I had an '81 Accord hatch and the amp I had was killing my alts, went through three of them before I bought a cap. Never had a problem sense. Knowing what I know now....... I now would only use a cap to smooth out the DC voltage ripple, but I have no issues so no need for it.

 

 

Ported vs sealed? There's another can of worms, almost as bad as the cap theorys. Sealed boxes are more forgiving in their construction. A few CI's off here and there and a sealed box could care less. In this site I could also see why most would choose a sealed= smaller box. Lets face it, these cars aren't big......AT ALL!

 

My install isn't done. Box isn't finished- changing a few cosmetics on it too. Some things are just in there so I can listen to it all (like the mids). I'm in the middle of building pods on the door for the mids. Buying some different mids too. ? Focal probably ? I'm toying w/the idea of the Eclipse 3-way comps they have?????

Here's my install. www.carstereo.com/smgreen20

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In my sol im running a set of focal 165a1s and a 27v2 sub. The clarity and precision of these speakers and of this sub are amazing. I would def recomend the focals.

 

Id really love to trade out my access series gear and my jbl amp for a set of focal k2 or their be+ series gear and a pair of the solid amps. I just cant justify 1700 for a pair of components and 1500 for a sub and 1k worth of amp haha.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Oh the stories I've heard about breaking glass..... The same kid that was going on about breaking his back window (off of two 10" MTX BlueThunder subs back in '94) was going on about how hard his system hit. To quote "It hits so hard it puts my cigarette out". Yea....OK.

 

 

Caps have their place, but it's far and few between. I'm discussing this right now in my electronics class. Working on that Mechanical Engineering degree after being out of school for 12 years. But.... I had an '81 Accord hatch and the amp I had was killing my alts, went through three of them before I bought a cap. Never had a problem sense. Knowing what I know now....... I now would only use a cap to smooth out the DC voltage ripple, but I have no issues so no need for it.

 

 

Ported vs sealed? There's another can of worms, almost as bad as the cap theorys. Sealed boxes are more forgiving in their construction. A few CI's off here and there and a sealed box could care less. In this site I could also see why most would choose a sealed= smaller box. Lets face it, these cars aren't big......AT ALL!

 

My install isn't done. Box isn't finished- changing a few cosmetics on it too. Some things are just in there so I can listen to it all (like the mids). I'm in the middle of building pods on the door for the mids. Buying some different mids too. ? Focal probably ? I'm toying w/the idea of the Eclipse 3-way comps they have?????

Here's my install. www.carstereo.com/smgreen20

 

Ive been using CDT for 6 or 7 years now and i absolutely love them.

 

In my Maxima i run Rainbow audio mids pushed a Directed A808 and musically they are among the best mids i have ever heard.

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