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'88 CRX: Timing belt broke while running


jermnc77

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I recentlyl purchased an '88 CRX. The previous owner told me he got into the car and turned it on. After ten seconds of running, it shut off. He was on his way to work and just decided to drive his truck instead.

 

Later, when he got a chance, he checked it out to see what was wrong with it. He said he removed the distributor cap and had his friend turned over the motor, but the inside never spun around.

 

He thinks the timing belt broke. He seems pretty sure this is what happened.

 

He sold it to me for real cheap since he's got a lot of cars in his drive and needed it to be functional or it had to go... and I assumed it needed a new motor anyway. BUT here's the deal.... I don't want to spend all the money on having the timing belt replaced to just find out the motor is shot anyway.

 

Is there a way to decide which route to go at this point?

 

I've always heard that if your timing belt breaks while the motor is running, then your motor was shot afterward.

 

Any suggestions on this diagnosis?

 

 

*BTW*

Newby here... loved the CRX since I was 12 years old. The first one I ever saw was an '88 Red. Now I have one!!! And I'm giddy!!!

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I recentlyl purchased an '88 CRX. The previous owner told me he got into the car and turned it on. After ten seconds of running, it shut off. He was on his way to work and just decided to drive his truck instead.

 

Later, when he got a chance, he checked it out to see what was wrong with it. He said he removed the distributor cap and had his friend turned over the motor, but the inside never spun around.

 

He thinks the timing belt broke. He seems pretty sure this is what happened.

 

He sold it to me for real cheap since he's got a lot of cars in his drive and needed it to be functional or it had to go... and I assumed it needed a new motor anyway. BUT here's the deal.... I don't want to spend all the money on having the timing belt replaced to just find out the motor is shot anyway.

 

Is there a way to decide which route to go at this point?

 

I've always heard that if your timing belt breaks while the motor is running, then your motor was shot afterward.

 

Any suggestions on this diagnosis?

 

 

*BTW*

Newby here... loved the CRX since I was 12 years old. The first one I ever saw was an '88 Red. Now I have one!!! And I'm giddy!!!

Depends on a lot of factors. At idle you could be fine, but if it breaks while at 70+ on the highway you're screwed. Pull the head and take a look. If it's not obvious, throw it back together and compression test it.

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doesnt matter where you are. chances are buddy , its fine. throw a belt on it , and it will run again. but of course theres the chance it wont. get a belt and put it on yourself , not that complicated buddy.

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Awesome replies guys!! Thanks for the info! I have never personally put on a timing belt, but at this point, I may just give it a try! I'm going to buy a Haynes manual and see what I can do.... (Definitely need to psyche myself up)

 

Here's a link to my cardomain page:

 

www.cardomain.com/id/jermnc77

 

 

I posted some pics of it on there....

 

keep the advice coming! Any of you near Sanford, NC and want to swing by to help a buddy out?!

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Awesome replies guys!! Thanks for the info! I have never personally put on a timing belt, but at this point, I may just give it a try! I'm going to buy a Haynes manual and see what I can do.... (Definitely need to psyche myself up)

 

Here's a link to my cardomain page:

 

www.cardomain.com/id/jermnc77

 

 

I posted some pics of it on there....

 

keep the advice coming! Any of you near Sanford, NC and want to swing by to help a buddy out?!

how close is Sanford to Wake Forest?

I'd be happy to help you out.

Do you have a timing light?

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Sanford is about 45 minutes from I40 on US1. It would probably take you an hour to get here.

 

No, I don't have a timing light. But I'll buy one if necessary. :) And then be indebted forever!! LOL

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Sanford is about 45 minutes from I40 on US1. It would probably take you an hour to get here.

 

No, I don't have a timing light. But I'll buy one if necessary. :) And then be indebted forever!! LOL

 

well i'm not going to be able to get there anytime soon unfortunately >_<

sorry man would help out if i could, just realized the logistics of me coming down soon since i was just down there, my sister lives there.

yeah, you're gonna need a timing light. you don't just put that belt on, timing should be close if your cam gears don't turn at all, but they will a little.

 

Here's a cheap one to get the job done :thumbsup:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYH72

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A timing light isn't going to help him for cam timing. The distributor is going to spark when it sparks, regardless if his cam timing is right or not.

 

 

you're right, sorry it was late and had a lot on my mind >_<

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Okay.... so now I'm definitely confused! So, the timing light won't help me at this point? How do I set the cam timing? Any of you guys close enought to stop by this weekend?

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No timing light needed. Remove the old belt, set the cam to the No. 1 cylinder TDC, turn the crank so the mark on the block lines up with the mark crank, install new belt... As long as the crank mark and the block mark line up it does not matter with the 4 clyinder, the most important thing other then that is that the cam is at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. Timing lights are primarily used for adjusting the timing (a.k.a. your distributor location). As long as you properly set the cam and crank (and are not off by a tooth), the timing should be the same as to what it was prior to the belt breaking.

 

Hope there was no damage to the valves and your cars runs good for you after you are done.

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OUCH! I just checked on a price for a new motor from Tuner Solutions in Raleigh, NC. They import motors from Japan since they have to be changed out to meet the restrictions on emissions. So you can usually get a low mileage motor for relatively chap... BUT Here is his message:

 

Sorry for not getting back with you on the crx sooner. I was off on wednesday. I did call and get a price on an engine for your car. I think a 1.6 would do you well. We would have to use your intake and your exhaust manifold on the new engine. The price with labor would be around 1880.00.

 

I think at the time on install it would be a good idea to change the timing belt and water pump with new seals. I did not get a price on parts. I don't know if you wanted to change out the parts or not, but if you want to i will be glad to get the parts price for you.

 

If you change out the timing belt and water pump your warranty will be one year on parts and labor, if not the warranty is 6 months. Please let me know if we can help. Thanks for your time.

 

JASON FROM TUNER SOLUTIONS.

 

 

*******************

 

With all that, I'm hoping like H*** the motor isn't shot!

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take spark plugs out

remove valve cover

remove upper timing cover

remove PS belt(if applicable)

remove alternator belt

remove crank pully bolt and pully(good luck if you dont many tools)

remove bottom cover

loosen tensioner bolt , pull tensioner all the way to slack position , retighten the tensioner bolt while holding it

remove old timing belt.

 

 

 

now , set the crank so its close to TDC , but not at TDC. so a half turn of the crank past TDC. theres a mark on the belt cog , and an arrow on the oil pump housing to line up that dot with. once this is done , you can rotate the cam with a wrench till its arrow and UP mark is pointing ahhh.....UP , lol. also the cam wheel has hash marks on each side 90 degrees to each side of the UP mark , these align with surface of head as a guide as well. level with.

 

once your cam is set , turn the crank again so its TDC , dont rotate it fully , just back it up to where its TDC , cause you only left it a 1/4 turn away.

 

once your marks are in the right place , place your timing belt on the crank cog , and the cam cog making sure there is NO slack in the belt between the 2 cogs on the front side of engine , opposite of water pump side. once you have it on like i said , have a buddy hold it on the cam wheel while you hold it on the crank cog and go around the water pump , than around the tensioner. once you have the belt in place , put crank pully bolt back in the crank so you can use it to turn the crank , it has to turn counterclockwise , so make sure its tight enough it wont loosen when you try to turn it. loosen the tensioner bolt again about half turn , only enough so it will move. now have someone turn the engine over slowly counter clockwise , tooth by tooth while you slowly tighten the tensioner bolt. it will tension itself with the spring , dont pull the tensioner to tighten the belt. once you have it on and tight , rotate a full turn or whats needed to set the marks up again , crank pointing at arrow and cam pointing UP. make sure marks are pointing where they should be. if not , make it so , if they are , put it back together.

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Thank you for that very detailed reply! That definitely gives me some confidence on tackling this project on my own. The last time I did anything with timing, my dad pretty much took over and did it for me. That was 16 years ago!!

 

I'm so anxious to get the CRX on the road, I'm just about willing to go at it alone. I'm not real sure what TDC means... but I'm sure I'll see what you're talking about.

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When I bought the car this week, I assumed the motor was shot and I'd just have to get another one or have it rebuilt. But I think there's still hope that it will run again when I get the timing installed.

 

Like I said originally, I've always wanted a red '88 CRX and I offered the guy $500 for it. He took it to get the car out of his yard. I couldn't pass it up!

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When I bought the car this week, I assumed the motor was shot and I'd just have to get another one or have it rebuilt. But I think there's still hope that it will run again when I get the timing installed.

 

Like I said originally, I've always wanted a red '88 CRX and I offered the guy $500 for it. He took it to get the car out of his yard. I couldn't pass it up!

 

If I lived close to you I'd be glad to give you a hand. It's not really that hard, just time consuming. Good luck with it and follow Cranny's instructions to a "T" and you should be fine.

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You may want to try out www.eastparkauto.com or call 1-800-BUYUSED. They specialize in only Honda and Acura parts. We have had routinely good luck with them at the shop when it comes to parts that customers can not afford new or re-built.

 

 

*******************

 

With all that, I'm hoping like H*** the motor isn't shot!

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  • 1 month later...

I had the most awesome thing happen today.... I've not had any time to work on the CRX since I bought it, but today, I finally got a moment (and had the interest) in trying to find out if the timing belt was actually broken. I removed the upper cover and found the timing belt to be in brand new condition! (the P.O. had told me the guy he bought it from said it had been replaced, but when he had probs with the car, his mechanic told him it was broken).

 

I bought the car with the assumption the motor was shot.... and today, when I jumped off the battery, the car started!!

 

GET THIS, I even drove it around the neighborhood!! IT RUNS! IT RUNS!! I CAN'T BELIEVE IT!!

 

I called the previous owner again today to give him the update... He was speechless! We discussed the symptoms again and this is what he told me;

 

The car started and was running. He was about to leave his house when it shut off. It would not restart. So he jumped in his truck and went on to work. Later on, he had the car towed to the mechanic. The mechanic told him the distributor was not rotating and he suspected the timing belt had broken.

 

He then brought the car home and let it set until his wife got on him for having too many cars setting around the house. So he posted it on craiglist and I bought it from him.

 

So, with all that... I'm suspecting that maybe the fuel pump is the problem? I know it's a shot in the dark, but what do you guys think?

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True... I did consider that. But if it wasn't turning before, but is now.... what gives? How can it not work, then work again?

 

OR did this mechanic just completely misdiagnose this problem from the start?

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