CleanGSR Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 So let's hear your process. If you do any buffing/polshing to remove scratches, swirl marks, and/or oxidation, then post up what products you use the order and the brand of buffer/polisher you use. It should be a pretty short list, so no excuses about taking to long to type. I use a Porter Cable 7424 random orbital buffer Wash Clay Bar Sonus SFX-2 with blue pad at speed 4-5 Sonus SFX-1 with white pad at speed 3 Wax with Natty's Blue, Collinite, or M21 (depending on car color or whether it's garaged) SFX-2 sometimes takes 2 coats and for heavily swirled or oxidized paint I use SFX-1 with an orange pad before the SFX-2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 wash, clay car, buff with wool with turtle wax. i just do it till i think it looks good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 well i'll stop being a bitch... i'll just type out what i do for a swirled, scratched black car... Wash -Ardex Tire Acid if needed, otherwise i use Ardex Brake Dust Buster mixed with Ardex purple wheel soap -Spray All purpose cleaner or Bug and Tar Remover on front bumper or wherever needed, powerwash off -Powerwash light soap all over car -Ardex blue soap and a wash mit -Powerwash rinse entire car -drive to detailing bay Dry -Go over entire car with Chamoise -Shop rag on wheels and tires, use solvent to get hard brake dust/tar off wheels -Get water spots off windows w/ blue window rag, if needed i use Ardex Professional Window Cleaner for bad windows, then if they still aren't clean enough i use the window cleaner + a razor blade -Air compress water out of cracks -Door jams/trunk/engine Buff/Polish/Swirl Remove/Wax Process -Clay Bar entire car -tape off black trim -i use a grinder with a soft-back for this process, up to 6K rpms power -Cut car with light rubbing compound and a wool pad at 3K rpms -Swirl Remove car with Ardex swirl remover and a blue foam pad -Polish car with Ardex polish and a green foam pad -Seal/Wax car with Ardex Professional hard wax w/ damp wax applicating sponge, wipe off with microfiber -Shine Wax with Ardex Viper Wax, apply with damp pad, wipe off with microfiber -Dress Tires -Take out in the direct sunlight and use a microfiber to get rid of everything i missed Interior- -All-purpose/Watery mix and a rag -go over entire interior -foam cleaner over all fabrics and carpets -vacuum -air compress dust/ash out of cracks -vacuum settled dust The End...i hope i remembered enerything... On a good day when i'm into my work, i do a Mercedes S55 in about 4 hours, which isn't bad considering how many steps i have to take...like everything listed is mandatory for a full detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Interesting that you've stuck with the same brand. I'll have to do some research on that brand. My full detail includes (on a badly swirled black car) spray front with bug and tar remover Spray wheels with Meguiars Wheel cleaner wash w/ 2 bucket method. 1 bucket for rinsing my mitt, one for soap dry with microfiber dry towel clay bar with clay magic Sonus SFX-1 by PC at speed 5 Sonus SFX-2 by PC at speed 5 Zaino Z5 by hand x 2 Zaino Z2 by hand x 2 Topped with Pinnacle Souvergn Paste wax Windows cleaned and sealed with M21 sealant Trim dressed with back to black tires dressed with dupont tire cleaner wheel wells wiped down and dressed with armor all Wheels sealed with M21 sealant Door Trunk Jams QD'd and sealed with M21 Interior Full vaccum on interior and trunk Brush out vents and crevices with Meguiars detail brush Clean inside of windows Wipe down dash, and all interior panels with Zaino interior spray Spot clean carpets and seats (if fabric) Clean and Condition Leather w/ Zymol Only microfiber rags touch any part of the car. I'm planning on getting a steam cleaner for interior fabrics and detailing the engine bay. Interesting to see how other people do a car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Microfibers are great, but to get the intitial water off the car i prefer chamoise...much easier imo. i forgot trim dressing, wheel well dressing, and leather conditioner. i stick with Ardex b/c it's the best product i've used so far. i've used Car Brite, Zaino, Meguier's, Mothers, Eagle One, and all that bull sh!t stuff from pep boys, and nothing i've used brings a swirled and scratched black car back to "straight out of the showroom" look like Ardex. i don't know if you can buy it for personal use, it might only be for big businesses... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Hung, how much do you have invested in detailing products? Assuming I normally just stick with washing/waxing my car, is it actually cheaper to just get it professionally done every now and again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Hung, how much do you have invested in detailing products? Assuming I normally just stick with washing/waxing my car, is it actually cheaper to just get it professionally done every now and again? DIY!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 (edited) Order a Pakshak microfiber drying towel and you'll be amazed at how well they work. Well, the polisher I use was around $200 with the pads, each product varies in cost and has different advantages. For example a can of pinnacle sovergn cost around $80, but has the greatest shine that you've ever seen on darker colored cars, but only lasts about a month. Zaino gives great shine in depth when used in the process I use and gives 6 months of durability. Around $50 in Zaino Z2, Z5 and ZFX. Collinite is a great wax for durability that looks great....around $20, Natty's Blue wax is the best wax I've used in the $30 price range and is better on darker cars. S100 and P21S are incredible waxes for the price and give great reflection on lighter colors....about $20 each. Overall I've got probably around 500-600 in products, but (not counting the polisher) I only use about $5-10 on a basic detail. Most of the products go a long way and will do several cars, but since certain combos work better on different colors, I keep a wide variety of products on hand. Plus, I have to take into consideration if the customers car is garaged. If it's not garaged, I need a more durable combo, but if it's garaged, I can get away with a less durable combo and get better shine since it's not in the sun all the time. If you have swrils that need to be removed, it will be expensive to DIY. You'll have to get a high quality buffer and the right products to get them out and that gets pricey. If all you do is a basic wash and wax every 3-6 months then definately do it yourself. Edited August 9, 2006 by HungGSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 (edited) So my car is a badly swirled, ungaraged, honda black. Natty's Blue? I prolly won't worry about the swirls cuz it'll only be a matter of time before it gets painted. Edit: Swirls are the result of not using the two-bucket wash process? So, if you wash it right from the start they don't happen very much? Edited August 9, 2006 by TS John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 you wanna bring your car alive hung , start with 800 grit paper on a soft block , and a squirt bottle of water in the other hand. wet sand the car with 800 , than 1500 , than 2000 , being very careful of edges. than get yourself buffing compounds , brand dont matter really as long as its a good one(i like 3M products). using your buffer , being very careful of adges now as youl burn the paint very easily(discolor). buff your ride till it looks like a show car. one whole day it would take you most likely. get rid of any orange peal thats in your paint(all cars do unless wet sanded) , and make your car look like its always wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 (edited) So my car is a badly swirled, ungaraged, honda black. Natty's Blue? I prolly won't worry about the swirls cuz it'll only be a matter of time before it gets painted. Edit: Swirls are the result of not using the two-bucket wash process? So, if you wash it right from the start they don't happen very much? Exactly. If you wash and properly detail your car then you will have very minor swirls come back. Nothing that a cleaner wax won't hide. I wouldn't reccomend Natty's Blue on a swirled car. Get some Meguiars M21 or M20 (you can get 20 at O'Reilleys). You'll want something that has cleaning abilities in it to at least help hide some of the swirls. Meguiars products have a darkening effect which really makes darker colors look insane. If you want you could top M20 or M21 with #26 yellow wax and it will only get better. Cranny - that would be so unneccesary on my car. My car has very few swirls on it that I can easily get out with SFX-2 which is a mildly abbrasive polish. If I ever need to step it up, I use SFX-1 which is about equal to 1500 grit, except it breaks down and removes it's own scratches. The process I use makes the car look like it's dripping, and I promise, I've never been able to find a bit of orange peel on my car. You can see the reflections in my car from accross the yard when I'm done. I'm not doubting your process and actually know some guys who do that to cars, but I grauntee it would be uneccesary on my car. Not to mention that honda's clears are pretty soft so it's not hard to get stuff out with an abrasive compound. Edited August 9, 2006 by HungGSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 i would never do it cranny's way. yeah, it may work but it's extremely risky. one slip and you've burned through to the primer. i'll just stick with cutting a car my way, the safe and effective way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Cranny's method is what I would do on a freshly painted car with some orange peel, but not a 5 year old car. I've never seen a finish that couldn't be taken out with the right combo of compounds. Plus a compound is better since the abbrasives break down and end up polishing the paint up after you work it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 I did mine cranny's way, and it works very well, and is really easy. Only I cut it with 800, then 1000, then 1500 grit sandpaper to lessen the ammount of buffing i would have to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Cranny's method is what I would do on a freshly painted car with some orange peel, but not a 5 year old car. I've never seen a finish that couldn't be taken out with the right combo of compounds. Plus a compound is better since the abbrasives break down and end up polishing the paint up after you work it in. well yeah if i just painted a car then of course i would wet sand it, but that's not necessary any other time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Hung, thanks for the recommendations. I'm gonna have to put together a shopping list of a few essential products for detailing based off all the recommendations you've made. If you have any final thoughts on the essentials for the engine bay, exterior, wheels, and interior, I'd love to hear them. If I'm ever in Missouri I'm driving over and paying you to detail my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 If you're ever in Missouri, we'll detail your car together so you can learn and I'd only let you pay me about $20 for supplies. Good luck with your car, and hope it comes out as nice as you're hoping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 You're a good man, Hung. This car is such a slow process. I wish I could just fast forward to this whole "getting a good job right outta college" thing. Working at Macy's for a low, low hourly wage is for the birds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Yeah, the waiting process is the hardest part. I know exactly what you mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 You're a good man, Hung. This car is such a slow process. I wish I could just fast forward to this whole "getting a good job right outta college" thing. Working at Macy's for a low, low hourly wage is for the birds. i'm hear waiting too john...everything takes longer than expected with cars, two years with my car and i've just now got enough cash to do something to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 well yeah if i just painted a car then of course i would wet sand it, but that's not necessary any other time. oh yeah, thats what I was talking about, everytime with that will ruin your clear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 how mcuh would i pay to have a detailer do all that for me? my paint is in bad shape cuz whoever had it before me must have parked it oustide and never waxed it cuz the paint feels rough and the waterspots have etched themselves into the finish. i have a question, there are fine white lines in the front of the hood of my car, just on the hood, that look like towel lint from a distnace, but up close it looks like actualy cracks in teh paint almost like the paint is splitting or something. you can feel these cracks with your fingers. i have no idea what caused these since they where there when i bought the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 you'll pay between $200-$400 depending where you go. me and my friend matt charge $300 for a full detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 how mcuh would i pay to have a detailer do all that for me? my paint is in bad shape cuz whoever had it before me must have parked it oustide and never waxed it cuz the paint feels rough and the waterspots have etched themselves into the finish. i have a question, there are fine white lines in the front of the hood of my car, just on the hood, that look like towel lint from a distnace, but up close it looks like actualy cracks in teh paint almost like the paint is splitting or something. you can feel these cracks with your fingers. i have no idea what caused these since they where there when i bought the car. Yeah, it depends on where you go. A full multi stage polish and the full works I charge $200 for a compact car like a civic or integra. $250 for a mid size car. I figure on a compact car it takes me about 7-8 hours for the full detail so I'm making $25/hour minus supplies. Plus I'm a good bit under the normal price around here so it helps get me business. That includes engine and interior, etc.... too. Probably nothing can be done about the cracks in your hood without re-spraying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 we charge $300 b/c we split it two ways, and also a GOOD detail around here is no lower than $400. some places only charge $200 but they do a terrible job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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