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Posted by Sport Injection on 30 April 2010 - 09:25 PM
Posted by SIR_VTEC on 11 October 2010 - 06:50 AM
My nipples fcuking HURT.
... Gorden paid for them to be pierced.
it looks seriously hott, but i can't wait for them to heal.
got my nails done yesterday, and I'm having my hair done tomorrow. probably start stretching my lobes in the coming weeks and getting 2nd holes put in too. And I want my nostril repierced.
Pics or Ban...you know the rules Lexi lol....
yeah i saw your post on face book, i thought you had Kanji on your nails...i was like thats effing awesome lol
Posted by cmgogo on 01 October 2010 - 04:54 PM
The TRUE GReddy kits come w/ extruded alum hot and cold piping that is painted a blue purple, a much different BOV, as well as a few other trinkets. Also it looks like that exh mani is a HX diyfab job.
First thing is first if you want to check your idle to is CLEAN YOUR GODDAMN ENGINE BAY! From there it is easier to figure out what is wrong.
Also that is in NO WAY a tien bar, all of there bars use box tubing and full surrounds for their strut bars. Thats an egay special that is just engine bay, its just bling, take it out.
Last and probably most important, your making yourself look like an ass, while i may not agree with 3/4's of these jagoffs most the time, i dont personally attack them, it doesnt get you anywhere and just makes you look like a tool.
Posted by lastresort576 on 26 May 2010 - 08:58 PM
but the only time you could safely run an open DP(down pipe) is after a turbo since there is no back pressure and it just flows out.
Posted by Drew on 07 May 2002 - 07:42 PM
Take some time to introduce yourself, tell us what you drive and what modifications you've done to your car.
Take a look around, post some questions and answer some posts and have fun...
Also, where did you find this place, we'd like to know.
Posted by Raley on 25 March 2011 - 12:07 AM
here is a car... eg hatch (or del sol) with more air bags, the k23 (turbo) all wheel drive... there, ship it... i'll go in super debt for it... and so will so many other people.
Posted by DelSolSweetie on 20 March 2011 - 10:57 PM
and i have rear drums
and I didnt read the thread.. but I read what brian said about slotted rotors being pointless on street.. and i'm going to +1 that statement
any moron knows that drilling a hole in something makes it weaker.. which is why performance friction does dimpled now.. and the slotted rotors are more to let gas escape then 'cooling'.. it does promote heat transfer though.. as well as increase wear
and braking is more about compound of the pad then the rotor.. fluid plays a large part in it as well which people dont think about.. how you break them in has a lot to do with later performance as well.. whoever just goes to like 80 and slams on their brakes and says they are 'burned in' are morons.. they just glazed the rotors which basically makes them suck no matter what.. you put them through heat 'cycles'
Posted by DelSolSweetie on 04 January 2011 - 06:26 PM
It was funny but lets face it, about 10 people called it right the first day. Rule #1 KillaF150, don't come on too strongly. You would have made an infinitely better go at it if you had toned down the 'i am a hottie' routine.
explains why it didnt get pissy about some of the comments being made.. a normal female would.. still dont understand the fairly decent questions being asked.. guess he fails at life lol
brian likes men
Posted by xd980 on 29 September 2010 - 09:17 PM
Posted by DelSolSweetie on 10 August 2010 - 05:50 AM
he has already said his motor is pretty much stock and has stock injectors on there! along with what sounds like a stock car (stock intake and exhaust system at least.. assuming nothing else is done)
the fuel pumps made for hondas are oem replacements that are capable of pushing more fuel if you need it (aka turbo built motor).. of course i still have not seen one made for a 2003 honda.. a walbro installed CORRECTLY would be delivery plenty of fuel for a stock car.. and was never needed in the first place
so I stick with my previous statements of this entire thread is stupid and OP is a moron
Posted by SolLesHonda on 28 February 2006 - 09:37 PM
Necessities For A Good Turbo Build, + Explanations
Turbo - Pretty Obvious. For most Honda motors, a T3, T3/T04, and T04 are great choices. If you need more info on what exactly a turbo does or how it works, click here. It is essential that you know the basics about a tubro before you own one. It is stupid to buy something you know nothing about, so read up on it.
Turbo Manifold - How else is the turbo going to get hooked up to the car? There are many variations of turbo manifolds, from Honda factory ones cut and modded to hold a turbo, to ram-horn, tubular, log, and mini ram, equal length. It is important that your manifold is of equal length, and is crafted well. SSautochrome ebay seller manifolds are not very good, and will crack. Some manifolds can be used with A/C and power steering, but will be made special. Also, you must see if the manifold has a spo for an external wastegate. Some manifolds are made for itnernally wastegated turbo's, so you'll want to make sure of that too.
Intercooler - It's the main thing people see when they look at the front exterior of your car. They look amazing, but what exactly do they do ? Well, most people will say that intercoolers resemble radiators, which they do, but they work a little differently. Intercoolers have air pass through inside, as well as outside of it. The intake air passes through sealed little passages, while cooler air is pushed against the intercooler. The intercooler cools down the air which results in mroe power. Cooler air is denser, which ultimately leads to more power.
Blow Off Valve - These are the things that everyone loves the sound of. If you don't like the sound of it, you're just plain stupid. A BOV is mounted on the Intake plumbing or charge piping, and releases excess air from the turbo. When the air is generated from the turbo and the throttle is suddenly closed (shifting), that excess air will need to go somewhere. The BOV will release it, thus saving your turbo.
Wastegate - The wastegate limits the turbo's shaft speed, and keeps the turbo from over-speeding. The wastegate simply stabilizes boost pressure. There are different springs you can use for the wastegate to regulate the pressure (psi). Often times they are measured in BAR. 1 BAR = 14.5 psi.
Charge Piping - This is the piping that connects the intake manifold to the turbo. It runs down like a normal CAI, leads to the to the intercooler, to the compressor side of the turbo. The turbo sends air through the charge piping, get's cooled by the intercooler, and enters into the engine. Simple enough.
Downpipe - Ok, now that the turbo has gotten the power into the engine, how does the air get transferred out through the exhaust ? Well, being that you don't have a header with a turbo, you have to have a downpipe from the turbo to lead to the exhaust system. For a turbo'd Honda 2.5"-3" is a sufficient size to provide good airflow and power. Whatever you do, it wold be my personal recommendation to use the same size diameter downpipe as exhaust system. For example, do not use a 2.5 inch downpipe with 3inch exhaust.
Oil Feed and Return Lines - The turbo does need to be lubricated. Oil Feed lines will accomplish this. This is probably the cheapest part of the project. You can get stainless braided lines for cheap, or even get them from Home Depot if you want to save money. The oil feed runs from the back of the block to the turbo, and back to the oil pan. Simple enough. Bearings need lubrication. Don't seize your turbo by not spending $40 to buy oil feed/return lines.
EMS - It is essential to have some type of Engine Management System. Do not go cheap and buy some "hack", buy Hondata or other products like Neptune. Have your set up tuned, dybno tuned for best results. Hondata offers many other options such as Wide-Open Throttle shifting, removable rev limiter, and launch control.
Fuel System - You will want to upgrade your fuel system when you turbo your car. Get a set of RC Engineering Injectors, they are great for the price. There are many other brands, but for the money, they can't be beat. A new fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator are not necessarily needed, but a good upgrade to get. What's an extra $200 ? A Walbro in-tank fuel pump wouldn't be a bad idea either. You have to get the fuel there somehow. They are $100 dollars and are capable of 255lph. Good stuff.
Engine Modifications - What fun is a turbo on stock internals ? Talking about upgrading your internals can go on for pages, but for running high boost safely, you will want to purchase new pistons, rods, and rod bolts. While you have the engine apart and you are looking to run some serious numbers, or just want a bullet-proof block, go ahead and have the block honed and re-sleeved. Get some new bearings to top it off. For the head, it wouldn't be smart to put all that money into the block and leave the head completely stock. That's just not fair to your engine. A new line of valves/springs/retainers are a ncie addition, and make your turbo set-up last. A new cam and cam gear will add a little more power to the car, and make VTEC a little more fun if you have it. For cams, a great choice would be Crower or Rocket Motorsports. PM member ..SSR.. for Rocket Motorsports info if you have questions.
Drivetrain - What fun is all of this turbo and power stuff if you can't keep the power on the ground ? Get a new clutch, and by new I mean aftermarket. A OEM Honda clutch isn't going to cut it for this one. While you're at it, pick up a new flywheel. Fidanza is a great maker in flywheels, but there are many other options, like ACT, etc.
Tires - A good set of tires is a must when running power like this. You can have the best set-up in the world, but if you can't grab a bit of traction, you're not going to get anywhere. Falken Azenis are great tires, and there are many others to choose from. Tires will be more expensive now, you can't buy the cheapest set from Pep Boys anymore.
Suspension - You want to be handle right ? There is so much with suspension, but your OEM stuff just isn't going to cut it. Get some new stuff. Refer to other threads for suspension mods/info.
Well, your turbo set-up is all complete. You still have tons of things you can do to get better results, like new throttle body, intake manifold, etc. Good luck, and happy boosting.